IC-NRLF 


STRIAL  WORK 
FOR  BOYS 


A.E,  PICKARD 


ELEMENTARY  INDUSTRIAL  SERIES 


GJFT  OF 
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. ., 


Industrial  Wtfk  for  Boys 


BY 


A.  E.  PICKARD 

President,  Collegiate  Institute,  Minneapolis;   formerly  Superintendent 

of  Associated  Schools,  Cokato,  Minnesota;    author  of  "Rural 

Education,"  "Industrial  Booklets"  and 

"Industrial  Work  for  Girls" 


ELEMENTARY  INDUSTRIAL  SERIES 


WEBB  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

ST.  PAUL,  MINN. 
1916 


Industrial  W>rk  for  Boyi 


BY 


A.   E.   PICKARD 

President,  Collegiate  Institute,  Minneapolis;   formerly  Superintendent 

of  Associated  Schools,  Cokato,  Minnesota;    author  of  "Rural 

Education,"  "Industrial  Booklets"  and 

"Industrial  Work  for  Girls" 


ELEMENTARY  INDUSTRIAL  SERIES 


WEBB  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

ST.  PAUL,  MINN. 
1916 


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GTFT^ 

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COPYRIGHT,   1916 

BY 

WEBB  PUBLISHING    COMPANY 

ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED 

W-l 


AGRIC.  DEPT. 


PREFACE 

For  several  reasons,  industrial  work  should  not  be  left 
for  the  high  school  grades  exclusively.  First,  comparatively 
few  reach  the  high  school.  Second,  it  is  as  necessary  to 
have  early  training  in  this  phase  of  education  as  in  any 
other,  if  the  student  is  to  do  his  best  in  the  advanced  work 
of  the  high  school.  Again,  experience  proves  that  the  in- 
dustrial work  offered  in  the  grades  creates  interest  and 
enjoyment  in  the  pupils  and  is  a  means  of  retaining  more 
pupils  in  school  much  longer  than  the  average  time  of 
attendance  in  schools  not  offering  such  work.  Finally,  a 
study  of  the  industries  of  a  great  commercial  nation,  such 
as  ours,  is  of  vital  importance  to  the  future  welfare  of  the 
country,  and  cannot  begin  too  early. 

The  work  suggested  in  this  little  book  has  been  done 
successfully  for  a  number  of  years  in  the  teachers'  training 
department,  in  the  intermediate  and  upper  grades  and  in 
the  rural  schools  that  were  under  the  supervision  of  the 
author.  At  the  annual  exhibit  of  fifteen  associated  rural 
schools  practically  all  the  work  here  outlined  has  been 
shown.  " 

Any  of  the  elementary  work  that  the  students  already 
have  had  may  be  omitted.  Boys  who  are  taking  the 
work  for  the  first  time,  however,  should  do  the  work  in 
weaving,  both  paper  and  rug,  as  well  as  basketry  and  other 
work  before  attempting  the  rope  work  and  woodwork. 
The  teacher  should  have  several  industrial  books  for  refer- 
ence, from  which  occasionally  supplementary  exercises  may 
be  given.  The  "Farm  and  Business  Accounts"  should  be 
expanded  and  used  as  the  basis  for  much  of  the  work  in 

445073 


6  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

the  upper  arithmetic  classes.  A  home  credit  plan  should 
be  adopted  and  the  students  encouraged  to  do  some  of  the 
home  projects  during  the  school  year  as  well  as  in  the  sum- 
mer. Naturally,  more  can  be  done  in  some  schools  than 
in  others,  but  all  can  do  some  industrial  work;  and,  if  the 
students  are  allowed  some  form  of  credit  for  what  is  done 
at  home,  most  of  this  course  can  be  completed.  The  teacher 
will  find  a  discussion  of  the  industrial  course  of  study  in 
the  author's  "Rural  Education."  Teachers  who  are  not 
familiar  with  the  Division  Plan  of  conducting  the  classes 
should  use  that  book  as  a  reference. 

Several  persons  materially  assisted  the  author  in  the 
preparation  of  this  book.  Mr.  J.  B.  Frear,  formerly 
instructor  in  farm  mechanics  at  the  Minnesota  College  of 
Agriculture,  kindly  gave  permission  to  use  material  from 
Minnesota  Bulletin  Number  136.  The  photographs'  of  rope 
work  were  made  especially  for  the  author  by  Mr.  J.  T. 
Horton,  station  photographer,  by  special  arrangement  with 
the  Minnesota  College  of  Agriculture.  Especial  thanks  are 
due  Mr.  A.  H.  Carlson,  head  of  the  Industrial  Department, 
Rushford,  Minnesota,  and  Mr.  L.  E.  Stockwell,  head  of 
the  Department  of  Manual  Training,  Cokato,  Minnesota, 
for  valuable  assistance  in  the  preparation  of  the  projects  in 
woodwork.  Also  to  Supt.  R.  H.  Blankenship,  of  Pine 
County,  Minnesota,  one  of  the  pioneer  advocates  of  indus- 
trial work  in  rural  schools.  State  and  federal  bulletins  as 
well  as  industrial  periodicals  were  consulted  for  some  of  the 
projects  given. 

A.  E.  PICKARD. 

December,  1916. 


CONTENTS 

Chapter  Page 

I     Course  and  Equipment 9 

Purpose  of  Industrial  Work,  Preliminary  Industrial  Work, 
Second  and  Third  Division  Work. 

II    General  Industrial  Work 19 

School  Exercises  in  Weaving,  Paper  Folding  and  Construc- 
tion, Raffia  and  Rattan  Work,  Modeling. 

III  Rope  Work  and  Belt  Lacing 33 

Whipping,  Crowning,  Splicing,  Making  Knots,  Rope  Halters, 
Block  and  Tackle  Reeving,  Lacing  Three-inch  and  Six-inch 
Belts. 

IV  Woodwork  at  School 47 

Equipment,  Manual  Training  Exercises. 

V    Home  Projects  in  Woodwork 73 

Equipment,  Home  Credit  Projects,  including  the  Making 
of  a  Workbench,. Folding  Ironing  Table,  Stepladder,  Chicken 
Coop,  Stock  Rack,  Wagon  Box,  Farm  Gate  and  Road  Drag. 

VI    Projects  in  Cement  and  Iron 94 

Making  Concrete  Walks,  Floors,  Posts  and  Building  Blocks; 
Iron  Work,  Care  of  Forge,  Methods  of  Heating,  Projects 
in  Forging. 

VII    Home  Credit  Work  in  Agriculture 106 

Soil  Study,  Rotation  of  Crops,  ^  Germination  Tests,  Garden 
Work,  Weed  Collection,  Insect  Collection,  Collection  of 
Woods,  Study  of  Birds  and  Rodents,  Study  of  Machinery, 
Stock  and  Grain  Judging,  Tree  Grafting,  Strawberry  Raising. 

VIII    Contests  and  Club  Work 124 

Acre-yield  Corn  Plot,  Potato  Yield  Contest,  Tomato  Con- 
test, Canning  as  Club  Work,  Poultry  Contest,  Pig  Contest, 
Savings  Banks,  Keeping  Accounts,  Industrial  Exhibit. 

7 


Industrial  Work  for  Boys 


CHAPTER  I 
COURSE  AND  EQUIPMENT 

It  is  hoped  that  the  exercises  in  industrial  work  here 
given  may  be  the  means  of  causing  some  boys  to  "find 
themselves."  As  soon  as  the  value  of  the  work  becomes 
recognized,  the  boys  will  appreciate  it  and  will  do  the  exer- 
cises with  enthusiasm.  No  other  kind  of  work  is  more  useful 
or  more  elevating.  Collateral  information  should  be  sought 
and  given.  For  example,  where  do  raffia  and  rattan  grow 
and  what  are  they  used  for  in  the  industries?  Where  do 
twine  and  rope  come  from  and  how  are  they  made?  What 
kinds  of  woods  in  this  country  are  used  in  manufacturing 
and  what  is  the  value  of  each  kind  for  special  purposes? 

No  young  man  is  truly  educated  unless  he  knows  some- 
thing about  the  industries  of  his  country.  The  suggestions 
here  given  should  be  carried  out  as  fully  as  possible.  The 
pupil  will  thus  become  much  better  informed  than  the  mere 
" bookworm,"  and  will  realize  that  work  with  the  hands  is 
as  honorable  as  work  with  the  head. 

The  elementary  work  of  the  first  few  pages  must  not 
be  underestimated.  It  is  worth  while,  and  the  students  who 
are  best  in  it  will  nearly  always  become  the  most  proficient 
in  the  rope  and  bench  work.  Mature  college  students  often 
do  this  simple  work  and  find  it  interesting  and  useful. 

It  should  be  planned  to  do  as  much  of  the  "home  proj- 
ect" work  as  possible.  If  the  student  is  not  fortunate 


10  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOTS 

enough  to  have  a  shop  at  home,  he  can  at  least  have  a  bench, 
which  he  himself  can  make.  The  bench  can  be  housed  in 
a  shed  or  other  building  until  a  permanent  shop  can  be 
fitted  up. 

PURPOSE  OF  INDUSTRIAL  WORK 

A  noted  educator  says  this  of  industrial  work:  "As 
far  as  it  neglects  industry,  the  school  falls  short  of  its  pur- 
pose. Industry  is  among  the  departments  of  civilization 
about  which  everybody  should  know  something.  Social 
efficiency,  too,  depends  upon  knowledge;  for  without  some 
acquaintance  with  industrial  affairs  even  those  who  are 
engaged  in  other  pursuits  are  handicapped.  They  cannot 
intelligently  co-operate  with  work  which  they  know  nothing 
about." 

Industrial  training  in  the  elementary  schools  has  been 
too  much  of  the  hit-or-miss  kind.  There  has  been  no  stand- 
ard course  of  study  to  follow,  and  resourceful  teachers 
have  been  able  to  conduct  the  work  only  on  account  of 
their  own  training  and  interest  in  it.  Only  two  extremes 
could  be  expected  under  such  circumstances — talking  about 
industrial  work  without  doing  it,  and  making  unrelated 
articles  without  instruction. 

The  time  given  to  industrial  work  must  depend  upon 
local  circumstances.  At  least  two  hours  a  week  should  be 
devoted  to  it,  and  more  if  possible.  The  school  should  be 
divided  into  either  two  or  three  divisions  for  this  work. 
The  "Division  Plan,"  discussed  at  length  in  "Rural  Edu- 
cation," divides  the  usual  eight  grades  into  the  First 
Division,  the  Second  Division,  and  the  Third  Division. 
The  First  Division  includes  the  first  three  grades;  the 
Second  Division  includes  grades  four  to  six  inclusive;  and 
the  Third  Division  is  made  up  of  the  seventh  and  eighth 


COURSE  AND  EQUIPMENT 


11 


grades.  Probably  a  better  plan  is  to  have  but  seven 
grades  in  the  rural  school  curriculum.  In  that  event,  the 
Second  Division  will  include  only  the  fourth  and  fifth 
grades,  and  the  Third  Division,  the  sixth  and  seventh. 

The  supplies  needed  will  naturally  depend  upon  the 
size  of  the  school  and  the  time  given  to  industrial  work. 
From  five  to  fifteen  dollars'  worth  will  be  enough  for  the 
general  industrial  work.  The  industrial  and  sewing  ma- 
terials of  the  advanced  division  should  be  paid  for  by  the 
students.  A  suggestive  list  of  materials  with  prices  is 
given.  They  may  be  purchased  from  a  school  supply  house. 

For  the  First  Division,  paper  weaving  materials  are 
needed.  These  may  be  purchased  in  packages  in  various 
sizes,  with  slits  one  fourth,  one  third,  and  one  half  inch  wide, 
at  about  a  cent  for  each  mat.  All  the  standard  colors  may 
be  obtained.  Colored  sheets  should  be  purchased  and 


Figure  1.      Preparing  and  assorting  material  for  industrial  work 
rural  associated  schools. 


12  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

strips  cut  with  the  scissors  for  more  advanced  weaving  after 
the  ready-made  mats  have  been  put  together.  Papers 
for  folding  and  cutting  may  be  purchased  at  fifteen  to 
twenty  cents  a  hundred  squares,  usually  four  by  four  inches. 
Looms  may  be  made  or  purchased.  Hammock  looms 
are  easily  made  by  cutting  heavy  cardboard  to  the  de- 
sired size,  rounding  the  ends,  and  cutting  notches  in  them 
for  the  fastening  of  the  warp.  These  are  inexpensive  and 
are  just  as  good  as  those  that  are  purchased.  Looms  for 
rug  weaving  may  easily  be  made  in  the  school,  if  the  stu- 
dents have  manual  training.  A  loom  that  retails  for  thirty 
cents  may  be  made  for  from  three  to  six  cents  for  the  ma- 
terial. Use  oak  one  fourth  of  an  inch  thick.  Pine  or  bass- 
wood  will  do.  The  two  endpieces  are  each  ten  inches  long 
and  one  and  one  fourth  inches  wide.  Place  the  two  end- 
pieces  together  side  to  side  and  make  a  series  of  cross 
notches  from  end  to  end  by  sawing  their  edges  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  deep  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart.  In  these 
notches  the  warp  is  fastened  for  weaving.  The  ends  are 
fastened  apart  with  two  sidepieces  twelve  inches  long 
and  three  quarters  of  an  inch  wide.  These  are  fastened 
by  sawing  a  slit  in  the  ends  of  the  endpieces,  so  that 
the  sidepieces  will  just  fit  flatwise.  They  are  then  nailed 
and  glued.  Holes  are  bored  in  the  ends  for  the  heavy 
wire  to  make  the  loom  adjustable  in  width.  These  wires 
are  copper,  three  sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and 
may  be  bought  at  any  hardware  store.  They 
should  be  cut  fourteen  inches  long  and  have  a  loop 
made  in  one  end  for  a  handle.  A  wooden  crosspiece 
similar  to  one  of  the  ends  may  be  made  to  slide  along  the 
sidepieces.  This  will  enable  one  to  make  the  loom  adjust- 
able in  length  as  well  as  in  width.  Flat  wooden  needles 
made  from  quarter-inch  bass  wood,  rounded  off  at  one 


COURSE  AND  EQUIPMENT  13 

end,  and  a  hole  bored  in  the  other  for  threading  the  ma- 
terial, can  be  made  very  easily,  and  they  are  better  than 
the  metal  needles  for  the  most  of  the  weaving.  These 
should  be  sandpapered  down  until  they  are  a  little  less  than 
one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  a  half  inch  wide  and  about 
ten  inches  long.  With  such  a  needle,  the  material  may 
be  drawn  through  the  entire  width  of  the  rug  at  one  time. 
Metal  needles  are  needed  for  finishing  the  rugs  and  for  work- 
ing patterns.  See  Figure  7. 

Rug  materials  are  few  or  numerous  as  one  desires.  Col- 
ored rags  from  home  are  as  good  as  anything  for  the  prac- 
tice work  and  cost  nothing.  They  should  be  cut  or  torn 
into  suitable  lengths  and  widths.  Roving  is  a  very  coarse 
weaving  material,  excellent  for  beginners,  and  may  be 
purchased  in  colors  at  about  seventy  cents  a  pound.  It 
should  precede  the  finer  materials.  Carpet  yarn  may  be 
obtained  at  about  sixty  cents  a  pound.  Jute  makes  cheaper 
weaving  material  at  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  cents  a  pound. 
Chenille,  plain  and  mottled,  is  good  for  pattern  work  or 
for  the  entire  rug.  It  costs  about  sixty  cents  a  pound. 
Macrame  cord  comes  in  balls,  any  color,  and  costs  about 
fifteen  cents  a  ball.  It  is  used  principally  for  hammock 
making,  but  is  rather  expensive.  For  practice,  rugs  may 
be  made  out  of  rags,  raffia,  or  even  corn  husks,  and  save 
the  expensive  materials  for  exhibit  work.  All  these  ma- 
terials are  used  for  the  woof  of  rugs  and  hammocks.  For 
the  warp  to  "thread"  the  looms,  carpet  warp  may  be  pur- 
chased in  colors  at  about  fifty  cents  a  pound.  Brass  rings 
for  hammocks  will  cost  about  two  cents  a  pair  for  the  inch 
size.  Smaller  ones  may  be  used,  if  desired.  Germantown 
yarn  is  beautiful  for  knitting  caps,  bonnets,  mittens,  leggings, 
etc.,  but  is  rather  expensive  for  rugs.  It  costs  about  fifteen 
cents  a  skein. 


14  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

Basketry  and  raffia  supplies  may  be  furnished  by  the 
school  or  purchased  by  the  students,  as  desired.  Plain 
raffia  costs  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  cents  a  pound,  and 
colored,  from  forty  to  fifty  cents.  Rattan,  or  round  reeds, 
will  cost  from  thirty-five  to  eighty-five  cents,  depending 
upon  the  size.  The  medium  sizes  are  used  most,  but  the 
teacher  should  order  by  sending  samples  of  the  sizes  de- 
sired. Flat  reed  for  napkin  rings  and  basketry  costs  about 
fifty  cents  a  pound.  Raffia  and  rattan  may  be  dyed,  if 
desired;  but  it  is  rather  hard  to  get  uniform  tints  unless 
one  has  had  practice.  The  finished  baskets  and  trays 
should  be  shellacked  as  soon  as  they  are  made. 

Clay  for  modeling  comes  in  three  forms — the  flour,  in 
bricks,  and  moist  in  barrels.  The  flour  may  be  obtained 
in  five-pound  boxes  at  five  cents  a  pound.  The  bricks  are 
usually  five  pounds  each  and  cost  the  same  as  the  flour. 
Moist  clay  is  a  little  cheaper  when  purchased  in  barrel 
lots.  Some  communities  have  near  at  hand  clay  that  is 
good  for  this  work,  and  costs  only  the  labor  of  getting  it. 

PRELIMINARY  INDUSTRIAL  WORK 
Those  pupils  who  have  not  had  the  industrial  work  of 
the  lower  grades  should  learn  the  principles  of  weaving 
some  raffia  and  rattan  work,  and  do  a  little  modeling  with 
clay.  A  few  simple  exercises  are  given,  the  material  for 
which  should  be  furnished  by  the  school.  The  students 
should  make  the  looms,  using  paper  for  the  Germantown 
yarn  and  hammock  work,  and  wood  for  the  rugs.  Have  a 
brush  and  shellac  for  the  baskets  and  trays. 

Paper  folding  and  construction  may  precede  or  follow 
the  paper  weaving.  A  ruler,  pencil,  pair  of  scissors  and 
paste  are  needed.  Make  envelopes  and  boxes  for  seed  and 
other  collections  in  agriculture.  Other  objects  from  which 


COURSE  AND  EQUIPMENT 


15 


a  selection  may  be  made  are  as  follows :  Small  basket, 
doll's  furniture,  sled,  Indian  canoe,  Puritan  cradle,  shaving 
ball  or  pad,  needlebook,  match  scratcher,  Christmas  bells, 
windmill,  May  basket,  carriage,  house,  barn,  chicken-coop, 
picture-frame,  bookmark,  fan,  Chinese  lantern,  circular 
marker,  hexagonal  box,  blotting-pad,  calendar,  valentine, 
button  box,  tent,  card  and  photograph  holders,  screen, 
flower  holder,  whisk-broom  holder  and  pocket  comb  holder. 
The  materials  for  these  are  common  manila  drawing  paper, 
oak  tag,  cover  paper  and  colored  construction  papers. 

Weaving  is  usually  be- 
gun with  paper  strips  and 
readymade  mats,  as  given 
under  materials  for  indus- 
trial work.  Paper  weaving 
may  be  followed  by  basket 
weaving  with  heavy  fold- 
ing paper,  and  by  the 
weaving  of  bookmarks, 
pencil  trays,  mats,  boxes, 
napkin  rings,  match  safes, 
pincushions,  blotters,  cal- 
endars and  thermometer 
backs.  After  paper  weav- 
ing, loom  work  should  be 
given.  Rugs  of  rags,  roving,  yarn,  jute,  chenille,  raffia  and 
other  materials  are  made.  Bed  blankets  and  draperies  for 
a  doll's  house  may  be  woven.  Hammocks,  made  of  macrame 
cord  on  homemade  cardboard  looms,  may  be  hung  outside 
the  doll  house.  Doll  caps,  mittens,  and  leggings  may  be 
made  of  Germantown  yarn  on  the  loom  and  sewed  to  shape. 
See  Figure  2. 


Figure  2.   Germantown  yarn  work,  showing 
caps,  sweaters  and  leggings. 


16 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  3.     Making  rattan  trays  and  baskets  on  the  school  grounds. 

Raffia  and  rattan  work  should  largely  be  done  in  the  in- 
termediate and  advanced  divisions.  Raffia  rugs,  napkin 
rings,  picture  frames  of  cardboard  wound  in  raffia,  and  raffia 
baskets  may  be  attempted  in  the  primary  division. 

Modeling  is  always  of  interest  and  its  educational  value 
is  evident.  A  piece  of  oilcloth  or  a  square  board  should 
protect  the  desk.  When  clay  is  used  it  should  be  prepared 
the  day  before.  The  children,  of  course,  must  be  able  to 
wash  their  hands  after  the  work.  Encourage  outside  work 
and  ask  the  children  to  bring  their  products  to  school  to 
show  the  others.  Modeling  is  especially  valuable  in  train- 
ing both  hands  at  the  same  time.  Begin  with  forms  from 
life,  as  animals  and  plants,  rather  than  with  geometrical 
forms.  Later  the  latter  should  be  given,  and  the  ball, 
apple,  peach,  pear,  orange,  banana  and  other  similar  objects 
modeled.  A  bird's  nest  and  eggs,  marbles,  clay  baskets, 
beads  and  ornamental  vases  are  some  of  the  popular  pieces. 
It  is  well  to  have  in  mind  the  following  general  divisions  of 
the  subject:  1.  Modeling  from  objects  present  at  the 
time.  2.  Modeling  from  memory.  3.  Modeling  from 


COURSE  AND  EQUIPMENT  17 

imagination.  4.  Design  in  modeling.  Fruit  modeling 
may  be  shaded  with  water  colors  and,  when  dry,  given 
a  coat  of  shellac  which  gives  a  very  natural  effect,  if  well 
done.  Other  objects  may  be  colored  in  a  similar  manner. 

SECOND  AND  THIRD  DIVISION  WORK 

The  general  industrial  work  of  these  divisions  should  be 
raffia  and  rattan  weaving,  basketry  and  rope  work.  The 
objects  made  may  be  varied.  If  manual  training  is 
given  in  these  divisions,  there  will  not  be  much  time  left. 
A  little  basketry,  however,  and  rope  work  should  be 
given  sometime  during  the  course.  Napkin  rings  of  rat- 
tan and  flat  reed,  baskets  of  raffia  and  rattan,  collar  boxes 
of  rattan  wound  and  fastened  with  raffia,  serving  trays 
of  rattan  with  a  wooden  bottom,  wastebaskets  of  heavy 
rattan  and  knots-  and  splices  in.  rope  work,  are  all  useful 
and  practical  lessons.  The  rattan  work  should  be  given  a 
coat  of  shellac  as  soon  as  finished. 

Reference  books  are  necessary  for  the  best  results  in 
industrial  work.  It  is  impossible  to  give  directions  for 
making  of  many  of  the  articles  suggested  here,  as  space  will 
not  permit.  The  authors  have  found  the  following  list  of 
books  almost  indispensable:  Paper  Sloyd  for  Primary 
Grades,  by  Rich;  Industrial  Work  for  Public  Schools,  by 
Holton  and  Rollins;  Hand  Loom  Weaving  by  Todd;  Card- 
board Construction,  by  Trybom;  Hand  Work,  by  Hoxie; 
Raffia  and  Reed  Weaving,  by  Knapp;  Clay  Modeling,  by 
Holland;  and  How  to  Make  Baskets,  by  White.  Bulle- 
tins on  industrial  work  may  be  obtained  free  from  many  of 
the  agricultural  colleges. 

Industrial  work  and  geography  should  be  correlated  to 
the  extent  that  the  students  should  know  where  all  the 
materials  used  come  from  and  how  they  are  used  in  the 
2— 


18  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

industries.  Raffia  is  a  light  yellow  material  that  is  shred- 
ded off  from  the  bark  of  a  certain  palm  tree.  Most  of  ours 
comes  from  the  island  of  Madagascar.  On  account  of  its 
pliability  and  toughness,  raffia  is  much  used  for  industrial 
work  and  also  for  rope  making  in  the  industries.  Rattan 
is  a  kind  of  a  palm  that  grows  in  the  East  Indies.  It  is 
peculiar  in  that  it  sometimes  reaches  one  thousand  feet 
in  length,  and  is  supported  by  neighboring  trees.  It  grows 
in  various  sizes,  but  is  seldom  more  than  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter. There  are  very  few  branches,  sometimes  none  for 
two  or  three  hundred  feet.  The  different  species  are  very 
useful  in  their  native  countries  for  plaited  work,  rope  mak- 
ing, etc.  Rattan  is  twisted  into  ropes  and  used  for  pur- 
poses requiring  great  strength.  In  this  country  it  is  used' 
for  basketry,  rustic  furniture  making,  etc.  Jute  is  made 
from  the  inner  bark  of  a  tall  annual  plant  native  to  the 
East  Indies,  but  now  grown  in  several  countries  for  com- 
mercial purposes.  The  fiber  is  used  for  making  carpet, 
canvas  and  rope. 

Directions  for  making  a  few  forms  of  industrial  work  are 
given  for  those  who  have  no  other  books,  but  as  many 
reference  books  on  industrial  work  as  the  school  can  afford 
should  be  in  the  library. 


CHAPTER  II 
GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK 

Students  desiring  to  do  industrial  work  out  of  school  for 
"home  credit"  should  consult  with  the  teacher  regarding 
objects  to  be  made.  Try  to  develop  originality.  The  fol- 
lowing are  school  exercises: 

1— Single  Paper  Weaving 

Materials:  Manila  drawing  paper  for  practice.  Later, 
use  colored  papers  for  a  variety. 

Directions:  Use  a  square  of  any  desired  size  from  four 
to  eight  inches.  Fold  the  bottom  over  to  the  top.  With 


.•"••   -  ,:         }•  ,:,;•.-.,,.•      •  .         ,   .^     •         '• '!  ft*K ;,;.,.  ,;.      :- ' ,: 

Figure  4.      Paper  weaving.     Note  different  designs. 

a  ruler  and  pencil  make  lines  one  half  inch  apart,  beginning 
one  inch  from  the  left  side  and  ending  one  inch  from  the 
right  side.  The  lines  should  run  to  the  folded  edge  of  the 
paper,  but  end  just  one  inch  from  the  upper  edge.  With 
the  scissors  cut  along  the  lines.  Open  the  paper.  It  will 
then  be  cut  into  slits  one  half  inch  apart.  Cut  another 
piece  of  paper  into  strips  one  half  inch  wide  and  as  long  as 
the  square  just  used.  Weave  the  first  strip  over  one  and 
under  the  next  strip  in  the  square.  Weave  the  second  strip 

19 


20  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  B078 

in  the  same  way  except  that  you  weave  under  where  you 
wove  over  in  the  first  strip.  Continue  until  all  the  strips 
are  woven.  Other  weaving  may  be  done,  using  strips  of  any 
desired  width  and  color,  and  working  out  various  designs 
in  the  square.  As  stated  elsewhere,  these  squares  may  be 
purchased  all  ready  for  weaving,  if  desired;  but  it  is  cheaper 
to  make  them,  and  the  practice  in  ruling  and  cutting  is 
also  desirable.  See  Figure  4. 

2— Paper  Box 

Materials:  Drawing  paper,  ruler,  pencil,  scissors  and 
paste. 

Directions:  Draw  on  a  piece  of  paper  a  square  just 
double  the  size  you  want  your  box  to  be.  Fold  over  the 
lower  edge  on  the  upper,  then  the  lower  edge  back  on  the 
crease,  then  the  upper  edge  forward  on  the  crease.  Turn 
the  paper  half  around  and  do  the  same.  Open.  You 
will  now  have  sixteen  squares.  With  the  scissors  cut 
the  lower  edge  of  the  two  top  corner  squares  and  the 
upper  edge  of  the  two  bottom  corner  squares.  Fold,  so 
that  the  four  middle  squares  form  the  bottom  of 
the  box.  Paste  the  corner  squares  on  the  inside  of  the  box. 
Another  box  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner  and  used  as 
a  cover.  Heavier  paper  may  be  used  for  boxes  to  store 
seeds  and  other  agricultural  products. 

3— Paper  Basket 

Materials:     Same  as  for  the  paper  box. 

Directions:  If  a  square  basket  is  desired,  it  may  be 
made  the  same  as  the  box.  Then  paste  the  handle  to  it, 
letting  the  ends  extend  on  the  inside  of  the  basket.  A 
better  form  is  an  oblong  about  six  by  eight  inches.  Rule 
and  cut  a  paper  this  size,  being  careful  to  get  it  exact.  Fold 
it  into  two-inch  squares,  as  directed  for  the  box.  Turn 


GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  21 

the  paper  with  the  long  side  up  and  down.  Cut  the  two 
sides  of  the  upper  middle  square.  Do  the  same  for  the  lower 
middle  square.  Fold  the  corner  squares  over  the  middle 
squares  and  paste.  Cut  the  handle  and  paste  on  the-  inside 
in  the  middle  of  the  basket.  After  practicing  with  drawing 
paper,  heavier  material  may  be  used  for  more  permanent 
baskets.  Two  colors  may  be  used,  if  desired. 

4— Paper  Table 

Materials:     Heavy   folding   paper,    scissors   and   paste. 

Directions:  Cut  a  square  twice  the  dimensions  desired 
for  the  table.  Fold  it  into  sixteen  squares,  as  directed  in 
making  the  box.  Cut  along  the  bottom  of  the  two  upper 
corner  squares  and  along  the  top  of  the  lower  corner  squares. 
Fold  the  ends  over  the  corner  squares  and  paste  securely. 
The  bottom  of  the  box  just  made  is  the  top  of  the  table. 
Cut  out  an  oblong  from  each  side  beginning  one  half  inch 
from  the  corners,  making  it  about  three  inches  long,  to 
form  the  legs. 

5 — Paper  Chair 

Materials:     Same  as  for  the  paper  table. 

Directions:  Cut  a  square  having  about  three  fourths 
as  many  inches  on  a  side  as  you  used  for  the  table.  Fold 
this  into  nine  squares,  as  directed  in  the  first  numbers.  Cut 
along  the  top  of  the  lower  corner  squares.  Cut  along  both 
sides  of  the  upper  middle  square.  Fold  the  upper  middle 
square  toward  you.  This  forms  the  back.  Now  fold 
one  of  the  upper  corner  squares  over  the  other  and  fold 
the  rest  of  the  squares  to  form  a  cube.  Paste  securely. 
Strengthen  the  back  by  pasting  a  paper  of  the  same  size 
over  it.  At  the  bottom  cut  out  oblongs  from  each  side 
to  form  the  legs,  as  directed  for  the  table.  The  back  may 
be  ornamented  or  left  square. 


22  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  B078 

6 — Paper  Lantern 

Materials:  Plain  or  colored  folding  paper,  black  paper, 
scissors  and  paste. 

Directions :  Paste  half -inch  bands  of  dark  or  black  paper 
across  the  top  and  bottom  of  a  six  inch  square  of  colored 
paper  or  paper  tinted  with  water  colors.  Wall  paper  makes 
pretty  lanterns.  Fold  the  bottom  over  on  the  top  edge. 
Cut  half  inch  slits  from  the  crease  to  the  black  paper.  Form 
circles  with  the  black  edges,  making  the  top  and  bottom 
of  the  lantern.  Paste  securely.  Cut  the  handle  of  the  same 
material  as  the  circular  strips,  making  it  the  same  width 
and  six  inches  long.  Paste  it  to  the  lantern,  and  hang  where 
the  lantern  will  show  to  advantage.  A  cardboard  bottom 
may  be  inserted,  and  a  small  candle  fastened  to  it. 
7— Jack-o'-lantern 

Materials:  Drawing  paper  and  yellow  construction 
paper,  or  tinted  drawing  paper. 

Directions:  Draw  an  oval  the  shape  of  a  pumpkin 
about  three  by  three  and  one  half  inches,  leaving  a  short 
stem  at  the  top.  Cut  out.  With  this,  trace  another  on 
yellow  or  tinted  paper.  Cut  this  out.  Then  cut  holes  for 
the  eyes,  nose,  and  mouth,  and  paste  the  colored  paper  over 
the  other.  Black  disks  of  paper  may  be  pasted  on  the 
pupils  of  the  eyes,  and  triangles  for  the  teeth.  These  may 
be  used  for  invitations  or  hung  up  for  decorations. 
8 — Halloween  Fence 

Materials:  Manila  drawing  paper  and  yellow  tinted 
paper. 

Directions:  Using  a  piece  of  drawing  paper  eight  inches 
long  and  two  and  one  half  inches  wide,  cut  out  quarter- 
inch  oblongs  three  and  one  half  inches  long,  leaving  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  at  each  end  to  represent  the  post.  Cut  out  five 
of  these,  leaving  four  strips  of  paper  for  the  boards.  Do 


GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  23 

likewise  on  the  other  half  of  the  paper.     This  will  make  three 
posts  and  four  boards  between  each, 
with  the  posts  projecting  above   and 
below.     Paste  the  fence  to  a  sheet  of 
colored  mounting  paper.     On  the  top  of 
each  post  paste  a  small  Jack-o'-lantern 
Figure  5       Halloween     about  one  and  a  quarter  inches  in  diam- 
lenTmofnffn6.cutting     eter.     See  Figure  5. 

9— Christmas  Bell 

Materials:  Red  construction  paper  about  the  weight 
of  light  oak  tag,  pencil  and  scissors. 

Directions:  On  a  five-inch  square  draw  or  trace  a  bell, 
having  the  widest  part  at  the  bottom,  the  width  of  the  square. 
A  rounded  projection  in  the  middle  at  the  bottom  represents 
tongue,  or  clapper,  of  the  bell.  Cut  along  the  outline. 
A  small  hole  punched  in  the  top  of  the  dome  will  enable 
one  to  hang  the  bell.  It  may  be  used  to  send  an  invitation 
to  a  school  entertainment. 

10 — Christmas  Stocking 
Materials:     Same  as  for  number  seven. 
Directions:     On  a  piece  of  red  construction  paper  draw 
or  trace  a  stocking  about  eight  inches  long  and  three  inches 
wide  at  the  top,  and  foot.     Cut  along  the  line.     This  may 
also  be  used  to  send  an  invitation  or  to  hang  up  for  Christ- 
mas decoration. 

11— Santa  Claus 

Materials:     Red  cardboard,  cotton  and  metal  fasteners. 

Directions:  Trace  the  upper  part  of  the  body  down  as 
far  as  the  waist  line,  making  this  part  about  five  inches 
from  the  top  of  the  head  to  the  waist,  and  about  three 
inches  across  at  the  waist.  Cut  out.  Cut  the  arms  and 
fasten  with  a  brass  fastener,  one  on  each  side  of  the  body. 
Cut  out  the  lower  limbs  about  four  inches  long  and  fasten 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


on  the  under  side  of  the  waist  line.  Both 
the  arms  and  legs  will  then  be  movable. 
Paste  cotton  on  the  head  for  hair  and 
whiskers;  on  the  hands  for  fur  mittens;  on 
the  waist  line  of  the  coat  and  above  the 
ankles  for  the  tops  of  the  leggings.  This 
makes  an  interesting  Christmas  decoration. 

12 — Roving  or  Yarn  Rug 

Materials:  Loom  and  needle,  carpet 
yarn  or  string  for  warp,  and  rags,  yarn, 
chenille,  raffia  or  roving,  for  the  woof. 

Directions:  Thread  the  warp  back 
and  forth  through  the  notches  at  the  ends 
Figure  6.  Santa  ciaus  of  the  loom.  See  that  it  is  as  tight  as 
possible.  Weave  the  woof  over  one  strand 
of  the  warp  and  under  the  next,  across  the  rug.  Return, 
going  under  the  strand  you  went  over  before,  and  over  the 
next,  and  so  on.  If  a  long  wooden  needle  is  used,  it  may  be 


Figure  7.     Raffia  bag,  yarn  mat  on  a  homemade  loom  and  a  raffia  mat. 


GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK 


25 


Figure  8.     Roving  and  chenille  rugs. 

drawn  across  the  entire  mat  at  once,  thus  saving  time. 
Colored  borders  and  stripes  may  be  used  or  designs  worked 
in.  The  loom  can  be  adjusted  to  any  size  of  material. 
In  a  previous  paragraph,  see  directions  for  making  a  home- 
made loom.  Keep  the  woof  tight  by  packing  it  with  the 
needle  and  finger.  When  finished,  remove  and  bind  the 
ends  of  the  warp  with  carpet  yarn,  or  make  a  fringe.  Raffia 
may  be  used  instead  of  roving  or  yarn.  See  Figures  7  and  8. 

13 — Hammock 

Materials:  Cardboard  loom,  macrame  cord  in  two 
colors,  a  large  darning  needle  and  two  brass  rings  about 
three  fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Directions:  Fasten  the  warp  into  the  rings  which  are 
attached  to  one  side  of  the  loom,  and  wind  it  around  the 
ends  of  the  loom  over  the  notches,  or  through  the  holes 
if  those  are  used  instead  of  notches.  Any  number  of  warp 


26 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  9.     A  hammock  made  of  macrame  cord. 

strands  may  be  used,  from  sixteen  to  twenty  being  common. 
After  the  warp  is  stretched  tightly,  begin  the  weaving  with 
the  same  material  used  for  warp.  The  woof  strands  should 
be  about  half  as  long  as  the  distance  between  the  two  rings 
after  the  hammock  is  removed.  Colored  stripes  may  alter- 
nate or  borders  may  be  used.  When  finished,  remove  from 
the  loom  and  make  a  fringe. 

14— Reed  Napkin  Ring 

Materials:  Wooden  loom,  number  three  or  four  rattan, 
number  one  rattan,  flat  reed  and  a  knife. 

Directions:  Make  a  small  wooden  base  of  basswood  or 
pine  two  and  one  half  inches  square  and  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick.  On  this  base  draw  a  circle  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter. With  the  ruler  find  the  perpendicular  diameter,  and 
place  a  dot  at  each  end  of  it  on  the  circle.  Do  the  same  for 
the  horizontal  diameter.  Again  divide  the  space  between 
the  dots  into  three  equal  parts,  until  you  have  twelve  dots 
on  the  circle,  the  same  distance  apart.  With  a  brace  and 
bit,  or  gimlet,  bore  holes  through  the  base  at  the  dots. 
These  should  be  a  trifle  larger  than  the  size  of  rattan  you 
want  to  use  for  the  frame  of  the  napkin  ring.  Cut  twelve 


GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  27 

pieces  of  rattan  about  the  size  of  a  match  and  one  and  one 
half  inches  long.  Place  these  firmly  in  the  holes  of  the  base. 
Using  rattan  a  size  smaller  as  a  weaver,  weave  four  times 
around  the  base,  going  inside  of  one  upright  and  outside  the 
next.  The  second  time  around  weave  opposite  to  the  first 
time,  and  alternate  each  time.  The  weaver  is  moistened  so 
it  is  tough  and  pliable.  Pull  it  tight,  and  press  firmly  against 
the  base.  Next  use  flat  reed  for  two  layers  and  weave  in 
the  same  way.  Then  weave  four  rounds  more  of  the  same 
size  rattan  as  on  the  bottom.  Fasten  the  last  end  securely. 
Pull  the  ring  off  the  base,  being  careful  not  to  leave  any  of 
the  uprights  in  it.  With  number  one  rattan,  bind  the  edge 
together  firmly  by  fastening  one  end  around  the  top  of  an 
upright,  crossing  to  the  next  lower  end,  twisting  around  this 
end,  crossing  to  the  next  upper  end,  and  so  on,  until  you 
have  gone  around  the  ring  twice  and  finished  binding  each 
upright.  Cut  off  the  ends  of  the  uprights^  Your  napkin 
ring  should  be  strong  and  eomewhat  resemble  a  snare  drum 
on  the  outside.  Be  sure  to  keep  the  material  moist  while 
working.  See  Figure  10. 

15— Raffia  Picture  Frame 

Materials:     Cardboard  and  raffia. 

Directions:  Cut  out  a  circle  from  the  cardboard.  It 
may  be  any  desired  size,  but  about  six  inches  in  diameter 
is  common.  Cut  another  circle  in  the  center,  leaving  a  hole 
in  the  middle  about  two  and  one  half  inches  in  diameter. 
Select  board,  smooth  raffia.  Moisten  it,  and  wind  carefully 
around  from  center  to  outside.  When  finished,  sew  a  braid 
of  raffia  around  the  outer  edge,  making  a  loop  at  the  top  by 
means  of  which  to  hang  it  up.  Put  in  the  picture.  Oval 
or  square  shape  frames  may  be  made  according  to  the  in- 
dividual preference. 


28 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOTS 


16— Rattan  Mat 

Materials:  Number  three  rattan  for  spokes,  raffia  and 
number  one  rattan  for  weaving. 

Directions:  For  a  six-inch  mat  you  will  need  to  use 
pieces  of  rattan  fourteen  inches  long  in  order  to  make  the 
border  and  fasten  the  ends.  Cut  eight  pieces  of  the  number 
three  rattan  fourteen  inches  and  one  piece  eight  inches,  as 
it  is  easier  to  weave  with  an  odd  number  of  spokes.  Take 
four  of  the  long  spokes  and  cut  a  slit  one  half  inch  long 
exactly  in  the  middle  of  each.  Draw  the  other  four  long 
spokes  half  way  through  these  slits,  making  a  cross.  Put 
in  the  short  spoke  until  the  end  shows  on  the  other  side. 
With  a  needle  weave  raffia  over  one  and  under  the  next  spoke, 
starting  in  the  center,  until  you  have  woven  a  little  circular 
mat  about  an  inch  all  the  way  round  from  the  center,  or  two 
inches  in  diameter.  You  will  thus  make  a  firmer  middle 
than  you  can  usually  get  with  the  rattan.  Now  use  number 


Figure  10.    Rattan  am]  raffia  work,  showing  serving  tray,  baskets,  collar  box, 
mats  and  napkin  rings. 


GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  29 

one  rattan  for  the  weaver  in  the  same  way,  and  keep  the 
seventeen  spokes  the  same  distance  apart,  until  you  have 
a  mat  about  six  inches  in  diameter.  Now  sharpen  the  ends 
of  the  spokes,  moisten  them  so  they  will  bend  easily,  and 
pass  each  one  in  front  of  the  next  spoke  to  the  left,  and  push 
it  down  beside  the  second  spoke,  thus  making  a  loop  about 
two  inches  across  and  an  inch  high.  Do  this  with  each 
spoke  until  the  border  is  finished.  While  the  mat  is  moist, 
see  that  it  lies  perfectly  flat.  When  dry,  put  on  a  coat  of 
clear  or  colored  shellac.  See  Figure  10. 
17— Rattan  Basket 

Materials:  Number  four  and  number  two  rattan,  and 
plain  raffia. 

Directions:  Cut  eight  pieces  of  number  four  rattan  from 
eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  long,  depending  upon  the 
height  of  the  basket  desired,  twenty  inches  being  a  good 
length.  Cut  one  piece  an  inch  or  two  more  than  half  this 
length  for  the  odd  spoke.  Proceed  as  for  the  mat  in  number 
16,  using  the  raffia  center,  until  you  have  a  four-inch  bottom. 
Moisten  the  spokes,  and  turn  each  one  up  as  you  pass  the 
weaver  around  it.  Keep  the  weaving  pressed  down  firmly, 
the  spokes  the  same  distance  apart,  and  be  very  careful  in 
shaping  your  basket,  that  it  may  be  even  all  the  way  around. 
When  through  weaving,  fasten  the  end  securely.  Make  a 
border  with  the  spokes  as  for  the  mat,  only  pass  the  spoke 
to  the  left  in  front  of  two  spokes  instead  of  one,  and  push  it 
down  beside  the  third.  This  will  strengthen  the  top.  Be 
sure  the  shape  is  good.  Let  dry.  Shellac,  natural  or  colored. 

See  Figure  10. 

18— Raffia  and  Rattan  Mat 

Materials:     Number  two  or  three  rattan,  raffia,  needle. 

Directions:     Moisten  the  rattan  and  begin  a  coil.     Take 

a  needle  full  of  raffia.     Wind  the  end  of  the  coil  for  a  short 


30  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

distance  and  fasten  it  together  in  a  ring  as  small  as  you 
can  draw  it.  Continue  coiling  the  rattan,  and  winding  it 
with  raffia.  Wind  from  you.  About'  every  third  wind, 
pass  the  needle  between  the  ring  formed  and  the  next  coil 
of  rattan,  thus  fastening  the  rattan  to  the  ring.  The  third 
coil  is  fastened  to  the  second  in  the  same  manner  and  so 
on  until  the  mat  is  completed  to  any  desired  size.  Colors 
may  be  used  for  as  many  coils  as  you  wish,  making  borders. 
This  makes  a  soft  durable  mat. 

19— Collar  Box 

Materials:  Same  as  for  number  eighteen. 
Directions:  Make  the  bottom  six  inches  in  diameter, 
the  same  as  the  mat  was  made.  Then  turn  the  coils  up  to 
form  the  circular  side  of  the  box.  If  two  pieces  of  number 
two  or  three  rattan  are  wound  together  instead  of  one 
piece,  the  effect  is  more  pleasing,  and  you  will  have  a  firmer 
box.  Continue  the  coils  until  the  box  is  three  inches  deep. 
Now  make  a  cover  in  the  same  manner  as  the  bottom  was 
made,  turning  the  edges  up  half  an  inch,  so  they  will  fit 
down  over  the  box,  when  inverted  for  the  cover.  This 
may  be  fastened  on,  if  desired.  See  Figure  10. 

20— Wastebasket 

Materials:  A  circular  base  of  one  half  an  inch  of  pine 
or  basswood  nine  inches  in  diameter,  heavy  rattan  for 
spokes,  number  seven  or  eight,  and  rattan  about  two  sizes 
smaller  for  weaving. 

Directions:  Drill  a  row  of  twenty-five  holes  one  half 
an  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  wooden  base.  Cut  twenty- 
five  spokes  of  heavy  rattan  about  two  feet  long,  and  put 
them  through  the  holes  so  that  they  extend  about  three 
fourths  of  an  inch  below.  Using  rattan  about  two  sizes 
smaller  as  a  weaver,  turn  the  bottom  side  up,  and  weave 


GENERAL  INDUSTRIAL  WORK 


31 


Figure  11.     Rattan  wastebaskets. 


six  or  eight  rows  around  the 
spokes,  as  in  basket  weaving. 
Then  fasten  the  ends  of  the 
spokes  securely,  making  a 
close  border.  Now  turn  the 
bottom  over,  and  press  the 
board  down  firmly  on  the 
rattan  base.  Begin  to  weave 
above  the  board,  keeping  the  twenty-five  spokes  the  same 
distance  apart,  and  shaping  the  basket  as  you  proceed. 
Make  to  any  desired  height,  usually  about  a  foot,  and 
fasten  the  top  of  the  spokes  as  for  the  mats  and  baskets. 
Cut  off  ends  of  spokes.  Colored  rattan  will  make  effective 
designs.  Finish  with  shellac.  See  Figure  11. 

21— Serving  Tray 

Materials:     Wooden  base,  pine  or  basswood  and  rattan. 

Directions:  Make  a  wooden  base  of  half-inch  material 
in  an  oval  about  fifteen  inches  long  and  ten  inches  at  the 
widest  part.  Bore  holes  for  heavy  rattan  as  for  the  basket. 
Make  the  spokes  long  enough  to  weave  and  fasten  below 
and  to  make  the  tray  about  two  inches  deep  with  a  close 
border  on  top.  Weave  with  number  five  or  six  rattan  and 


Figure  12.     Clay  work,  showing  fruit  and  geometrical  forms. 


32  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

use  number  seven  or  eight  for  the  spokes.  This  makes  a 
very  firm  and  useful  tray.  It  should  have  two  coats  of 
shellac  for  finish,  either  dark  or  natural.  See  Figure  10. 

22— Clay  Modeling 

Materials:     Clay,  oilcloth,  water  colors  and  shellac. 

Directions:  Prepare  the  clay  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
used.  Do  not  have  it  too  wet,  just  moist  enough  to  work 
well.  Knead  until  oily.  Mould  into  shape  of  object  being 
modeled.  If  fruit,  tint  with  water  colors.  Let  dry.  Shel- 
lac with  natural  finish.  See  Figure  12. 


CHAPTER  III 


ROPE  WORK  AND  BELT  LACING 

Rope  is  used  so  much  on  the  farm  that  every  boy 
should  know  at  least  how  to  take  care  of  it,  make  a  splice 
and  tie  the  most  common  knots.  Rope  is  made  from  the 
fibers  of  several  different  plants,  as  manila,  sisal  and  com- 
mon hemp,  flax, 
cotton,  jute  and 
cocoanut  fiber. 
These  fibers  are 
twisted  in  yarns, 
the  yarns  are 
twisted  the  oppo- 
site direction  into 
strands  and  the 
strands  twisted  in 
the  same  direction 
as  the  fibers  into 
rope.  The  oppo- 
site twisting  keeps 
the  rope  from  un- 
twisting. See 
Figure  13. 

The  strength 
of  rope  depends 
upon  the  q  uality  of 
the  fiber,  the  num- 
ber of  strands,  the 
workmanship  and 
the  kind  of  pre-  Figure  u 
servative  on  the 


Figure  13.  The  construction  of  rope.  The  fibers 
are  woven  into  yarns,  the  yarns  into  strands  and  the 
strands  into  rope. 


SB*. 

Four  Strand 


3— 


Strands  are  twisted  "left-hand"  to  form 
rope  and  the  ropes  are  twisted  "right-hand"  to 
form  a  cable. 

33 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  15. 


Whipping,  or  wrapping,  the  end  of  a  rope,  showing  the  first  three 
steps  in  the  process. 


fiber.  The  strength  naturally  decreases  with  age,  wear  and 
exposure.  A  safe  load  must  be  much  less  than  the  breaking 
strength,  and  for  old  ropes  it  must  be  a  matter  of  good 
judgment.  Rope  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  place.  If  it  gets 
wet,  it  must  be  stretched  out  straight  to  dry.  A  hardened 
rope  may  be  made  pliable  again  by  boiling  in  soft  water. 


" Whipping"  is 
used  to  prevent 
the  ends  from  un- 
twisting. This  is 
done  by  putting 
a  string  under  a 
strand  of  the  rope 
about  three  inches 
from  the  end  and 
allowing  one  end 
to  hang  loose. 
Wrap  the  other 
end  of  the  string 


, 


Figure  16.     The  final  steps  in  whipping. 


ROPE  WORK  AND  BELT  LACING 


35 


Figure  17.      Forming  the  "bight,"  or  loop,  for  a 
figure  eight  knot. 


once  around  the  rope,  and  then  fold  the  loose  end  over. 
Continue  wrapping  the  string  tightly  around  the  rope  and 
string  until  you  have  wrapped  about  half  way  to  the  end  of 
the  rope.  Fold  the  loose  end  back  to  form  a  loop  that  ex- 
tends a  little  beyond  the  end  of  the  rope.  Wrap  the  string 
around  the  rope  and  loop,  and  pull  the  other  end  until  it 
draws  the  string  under 
the  whipping  as  far  as 
possible.  See  Figures 
15  and  16  showing 
the  operation. 

The  figure  eight 
knot  is  used  for  pre- 
venting the  strands 
from  untwisting,  and 
for  forming  a  hand- 
hold at  the  end  of  the 
rope  or  at  any  point 
between  the  ends.  In 
making  it,  form  a 
bight  as  shown  in 
Figure  17,  then  move 
the  end  as  shown  by 
the  arrow  in  Figure 
17  until  it  is  in  the 
position  shown  in 
Figure  18.  Draw  it 
up  tight. 

The  overhand  knot 
is  used  for  the  same 
purpose  as  the  figure 
eight  knot  and  is 

,        ,          f  Figure  19.     The  overhand  knot  before 

made  by  forming  a  drawing  tight. 


Figure  18.      The  completed  figure  eight  knot. 


•1 


36 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOTS 


Figure  20.     Crossing  the  ropes  to  tie  a 
square  knot. 


bight  through  which  the  end  of  the  rope  is  passed.     The 
loose  knot  is  shown  in  Figure  19. 

The  square  knot 
is  used  for  tying  rope 
securely  together. 
The  knot  may  be  tied 
by  studying  the  illus- 
trations. Cross  the 
ropes  as  shown  in 
Figure  20.  Move  end 
B  as  shown  by  the 
arrow  until  it  is  in 
the  position  shown  in 
Figure  21 .  Move 
ends  A  and  B  as 
shown  by  the  arrows 
until  they  are  in  the 
position  shown  in  Fig- 
ure 22.  Be  sure  the 
proper  end  is  nearest 
you  at  the  point  of 
crossing  in  the  right 
hand.  Move  end  B, 
as  shown  by  the  ar- 
row, until  it  is  in  the 
position  shown  in  Fig- 
ure 23,  and  draw  up 
tight  as  shown  in  Fig- 
ure 24.  Both  parts 
of  one  rope  should  be 
in  front  of  or  behind 
the  other,  as  shown 
at  points  C  and  D  in 


Figure  21.     The  second  step. 


Figure  22. 


Forming  a  loop  by  crossing  ends 
A  and   B. 


ROPE  WORK  AND  BELT  LACING 


37 


Figure  23. 


End  B  brought  under  to  com- 
plete the  knot. 


Figure  23,  not  as  shown  at  points   E  and  F  of  the  granny 
knot  in  Figure  25. 

The  granny  knot  shown  in  Figure  25,  is  of  very  little 
use  and  tends  to  slip  under  a  pull.  It  is  tied  only  by  those 
who  do  not  know  the  difference  between  it  and  the 
square  knot. 

The  bread  box  knot 
shown  in  Figure  26, 
looks  very  much  like 
the  square  knot,  but 
it  is  likely  to  slip. 
The  difference  in  the 
finished  knot  is  in  the 
positions  of  the  ends 
A  and  B,  as  can  be 
seen  in  comparing 
Figures  23  and  26. 

The  slip  knot  is 
used  when  a  loop  is 
wanted  that  will  slip 
up  tight  around  an 
object.  There  are  four 
steps  in  tying  it.  Hold 
the  rope  as  shown  in 
Figure  27.  Move  the 
right  hand  so  that 
point  A  moves  as 
shown  by  the  arrow 
in  Figure  27,  thus 
forming  a  round  turn 
in  the  left  hand  as 
shown  in  Figure  28, 
and  allow  the  right 


Figure  24.     Pulling  the  square  knot  tight. 


Figure  25.  The  granny  knot.  A  poor  knot. 
Note  the  difference  between  it  and  the  square 
knot. 


38 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  26.     The  bread  box  knot.     Similar  to 
the  square  knot  but  likely  to  slip. 


hand  to  slip  on  the  rope  to  point  B.  Move  the  right  hana 
so  that  point  B  moves,  as  shown  by  the  arrow,  to  the  posi- 
tion shown  in  Figure  29.  Draw  the  overhand  knot  that  has 
been  formed  up  tight  and  the  finished  knot  should  appear 
as  shown  in  Figure  30. 

The  slip  knot  and  half  hitch  make  a  combination  that 
form  a  permanent 
loop  that  will  not  slip. 
Tie  a  slip  knot  by  the 
method  shown  in  Fig- 
ures 27  to  30,  except 
that  you  start  with 
the  short  end  held  in 
the  right  hand  and  the 
long  part  in  the  left 
hand.  The  slip  knot 
is  shown  in  Figure  31. 
Move  end  A  as  shown 
by  the  arrow.  A  half 
hitch  is  thus  made 
around  the  long  end 
as  shown  in  Figure 
32.  Complete  the 
knot  by  drawing  up 
tight  as  shown  in  Fig- 
ure 33. 

The  double  bow- 
line is  used  when  a 
loop  is  wanted  be- 
tween the  ends  of  a 
rope  that  will  not  pull 
tight  or  slip.  It  is 
tied  as  follows:  Grasp 


Figure  27.      Starting  the  slip  knot. 


Figure  28.     The  second  step. 


ROPE  WORK  AND  KELT  LACING 


Figure  29.     The  point  B  in  figure  28  has  been 
passed  through  the  loop. 


the  rope  as  shown  in  Figure  34.  Tie  an  overhand  knot  as 
shown  in  Figure  35.  Fold  loop  A  back  over  the  overhand 
knot  as  shown  by  the  arrow,  and  then  grasp  the  knot  with 
the  left  hand  exactly  at  point  B  as  shown  in  Figures  35  and 

36.  Hold  the  double  bight  securely  in  the  left  hand  and 
draw  that  part  of  the 

rope  which  forms  loop 
A  through  the  double 
bight,  as  shown  by 
the  arrow  in  Figure 

37.  This  knot  may 
be  tied  through  a 
loose  ring. 

The  block  and 
tackle  is  used  for  lift- 
ing heavy  loads.  The 
more  ropes  in  the 
"tackle/*  the  greater 
the  weight  that  can 
be  lifted  with  a  given 
power.  Figures  38 
and  39  show  how  to 
thread  double  and 
triple  blocks.  The 
part  of  the  rope  to 
which  the  power  is  ap- 
plied is  called  the  fall 
rope,  and  the  block 
from  which  it  passes 
is  called  the  fall  block. 
The  fall  block  in  Fig- 
ure 39  is  a  triple  block. 
The  others  shown  are 


Figure  30.     The  finished  slip  knot. 


Figure  31. 


Beginning  the  slip  knot  and 
half  hitch. 


40 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  HOTS 


double  blocks.  Passing  the  rope  through  the  blocks  in  the 
proper  way  for  use  is  called  reeving.  One  of  the  blocks 
always  has  a  becket,  or  projection,  to  which  the  rope  is 
fastened.  In  reeving  blocks  it  is  best  to  pass  the  rope 
through  the  blocks  in  the  opposite  direction  to  that  in  which 
it  runs  when  the  blocks  are  in  action.  This  saves  pulling 
all  the  rope  through  the  block.  Fasten  the  rope  to  the  becket 
and  pass  it  over  the  sheave  farthest  from  the  becket  and 

around  the  pulleys  in 
each  block  as  shown 
in  the  illustration. 


Figure  32.     The  half  hitch  added. 


I^^^JJF^ 


Figure  33.     Completed  by  drawing  up  tight. 


Figure  34.     Starting  the  bowline  knot. 


Figure  38.     Simple  "block 
and  tackle." 


ROPE  WORK  AND  BELT  LACING 


41 


Common  wooden  blocks  with  iron  sheaves  are  used  for 
all  ordinary  work.  For  very  heavy  work,  such  as  stump 
pulling,  special  blocks  with  heavy  hooks  and  straps  may  be 
obtained.  In  ordering,  the  size  of  the  rope  to  be  used,  the 
number  of  sheaves,  and  whether  a  becket  is  desired  should 
be  explicitly  stated. 

For  heavy  work,  such  as  stump  pulling  and  bridge  work, 
blocks  may  be  had  with  extra  heavy  hooks  and  straps  and 
these  also  are  equip- 
ped with  roller  bear- 
ings for  the  sheaves. 


Figure  35.     The  second  step,  or  overhand  knot. 


Figure  36.     Loop  A  folded  back  as  shown  by 
arrow  in  figure  35. 


Figure  39.    Showing  another 
form  of  block. 


Figure  37.     The  final  step  of  the  bowline  knot. 


42  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

Steel  blocks  may  be  had,  as,  also,  blocks  of  different 
construction  for  wire  rope. 

All  blocks  and  rope  must  receive  the  very  best  of  care. 
Otherwise  their  efficiency  will  be  considerably  impaired,  in- 
volving the  possibility  of  both  loss  and  danger. 

SUPPLEMENTARY  ROPE  WORK. 

Crowning,  or  making  a  spliced  end  on  a  rope,  is  often 
desirable.  It  is  used  on  the  end  of  a  halter  rope  or  on  any 
rope  to  stiffen  the  end  and  prevent  its  unraveling.  To 
begin,  unlay  the  strands  about  seven  inches  back  from  the 
end.  Bend  one  strand  over  between  the  other  two.  The 
second  is  bent  over  the  end  of  the  first,  and  the  third  over 
the  end  of  the  second  and  under  the  loop,  or  bight,  of 
the  first.  Draw  the  three  strands  down  tight.  Splice  back 
each  strand  separately  by  putting  it  over  the  nearest  strand 
in  the  rope  and  under  the  next  strand.  Pull  each  very 
tight. 

The  short  splice  is  made  in  more  than  one  way.  A  good 
method  with  three-strand  rope  is  as  follows:  Unlay  the 
ends  to  be  spliced  back  about  ten  inches.  Bring  the  two 
ends  together  so  that  each  strand  of  one  rope  lies  between 
two  strands  from  the  opposite  rope.  Tie  each  pair  of  strands 
together  with  a  square  knot  and  pull  the  knots  tight.  Work 
back  each  strand  over  one  and  under  the  next  strand  of  the 
main  rope,  the  same  as  in  crowning.  This  splice  is  used 
where  the  size  of  the  rope  makes  no  difference. 

The  long  splice  must  be  used  in  a  rope  that  is  to  run 
through  a  pulley  or  for  any  purpose  where  the  size  of  the  rope 
must  not  be  increased.  Untwist  about  two  feet  of  the  ends 
of  the  two  ropes  to  be  spliced.  Perhaps  the  most  simple 
method  is  to  unlay  one  strand  at  a  time  and  work  that  back 
first.  Bring  the  ends  of  the  two  main  ropes  together  at  the 


ROPE  WORK  AND   BELT  LACINC 


43 


point  where  you  ceased  unraveling.  Twist  the  strand  of 
one  rope  into  the  groove  previously  occupied  by  the  strand 
of  the  other.  As  fast  as  a  strand  is  unlaid  on  one  rope 
follow  it  up  with  the  corresponding  strand  on  the  other. 
Continue  until  about  six  inches  of  each  strand  is  left.  Then 
tie  each  two  strands  with  the  first  half  of  a  square  knot  and 
pull  tight.  Continue  to  pass  each  of  these  strands  around 
the  other  for  two  or  three  turns,  leaving  out  a  little  of  each 
strand  each  time  after  the  second  turn,  so  as  to  taper  to  a 
point.  Cut  off  the  ends. 

Rope  halters  are  very  useful.  They  are  especially  good 
for  getting  young  colts  used  to  halters.  They  are  easily  made 
from  half-inch  rope  and  cost  much  less  than  leather  ones. 
Crown  an  end  of  a  rope  about  fifteen  feet  long.  Allowing 
about  six  inches  of  the  other  end  for  splicing,  measure  off 

enough  rope  to  go  over  the  head     i 

of  the  animal  for  which  the  halter 
is  to  be  made.  A  few  inches 
from  this  point  on  the  long  end 
of  the  rope  raise  a  strand  and  run 
the  short  end  through  and  form 
an  eye.  Three  or  four  inches 
farther  along  on  this  end  of  the 
rope  raise  another  strand  and  put 
the  short  end  through  again,  in 
the  opposite  direction,  forming 
another  loop.  From  this  last 
loop  measure  off  enough  rope  for 
the  nose  piece,  raise  a  strand  and 
run  the  short  end  through  for 
about  six  inches.  Separate  the 
strands  of  the  six-inch  piece  of 
rope  and  splice  one  into  the  Figure  40.  Ropehaiter. 


44  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

piece  that  goes  over  the  head,  one  into  the  nose  piece  and 
one  into  the  main  rope.  Run  the  crowned  end  of  the  rope 
through  the  first  loop  formed  and  tie  with  a  knot. 

The  student  should  have  a  copy  of  a  bulletin  on  rope  from 
the  state  agricultural  college  or  Farmers'  Bulletin  Number 
638.  These  give  explicit  directions  and  photographs  of  the 
different  stages  of  rope  splicing. 

BELT  LACING 

Belt  lacing  has  become  a  necessity  on  the  modern  farm. 
Every  boy  should  know  how  to  do  it.  A  kind  of  lacing 
that  would  be  satisfactory  for  a  three-inch  belt  would  not 
do  for  a  six-inch  belt.  The  hair,  or  grain,  side  of  a  leather 
belt  goes  next  to  the  wheel  or  pulley.  Strips  of  good,  tough 
leather  should  be  kept  on  hand  where  machinery  is  run  by 
belting.  As  leather  is  rather  expensive  for  practice  in  belt 
lacing  in  school,  stiff  cardboard  may  be  used  instead.  A 
width  may  be  cut  to  correspond  with  the  width  of  the  belt. 
Each  student  should  prepare  two  pieces  of  cardboard  the 
same  width.  Common  widths  are  three  inches  and  six 
inches.  Make  each  piece  of  cardboard  a  little  longer  than 
it  is  wide.  One  side  should  be  marked  "grain  side"  to  re- 
present that  side  of  the  leather.  Common  binding  twine 
may  be  used  for  the  laces.  If  a  belt  punch  is  not  available, 
the  holes  may  be  made  with  an  awl.  They  should  be  just 
large  enough  to  allow  the  twine  to  pass  through  twice. 

There  are  several  good  methods  of  lacing.  The  two  here 
described  are  given  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  Number  638.  The 
holes  in  the  cardboard,  or  leather,  if  it  is  available,  should 
be  made  to  correspond  with  those  in  the  illustrations.  The 
lace  must  be  kept  pulled  tight  constantly. 


ROPE   WORK  AND   BELT  LACING 


45 


Lacing  for  Three-inch  Belt. 

Punch  the  holes  as  shown  in  Figure  41.     The  grain,  or 
hair,  side  of  both  pieces  of  cardboard  representing  the  ends 

of  the  belt  should  be  kept  down. 
Pass  one  end  of  the  lace  down 
through  S  and  up  through  the 
opening  M.  This  opening  should 
be  made  with  an  awl  and  in  such 
a  manner  that  it  will  not  be 
round,  as  the  friction  from  an 
irregular  hole  will  be  greater  and 
the  lace  will  not  slip.  The  other 
end  of  the  lace  should  be  passed 
through  the  holes  in  the  order 
here  given:  V,  R,  V,  R,  T,  S,  Y, 
X,  Y,  X,  T,  S,  T,  U.  Always  keep 
the  lace  tight.  If  an  awl  is  not 
Figure  41.  Three-inch  belt  laced,  available  for  making  the  openings 

M  and  U,  a  small  nail  may 
be  used,  as  there  is  but  one 
thickness  of  lace  to  pass 
through.  Cut  off  the  ends 
of  the  lace  and  nick  them  so 
that  the  lace  will  not  slip. 
Study  Figure  41 ,  and  do  this 
lacing  until  you  know  how 
to  lace  the  belt  without 
reference  to  the  illustration. 

Lacing  for  Six-inch  Belt. 

Punch  the  holes  as  shown 
in  Figure  42.  With  the 
grain  side  down,  pass  one 


GXAIN 
SIDE 


Figure  42.     Six-inch  belt  laced. 


46  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOT8 

end  of  the  lace  through  the  hole  C  and  up  through  hole  D, 
the  latter  being  made  smaller  than  the  others.  Pass  the 
other  end  of  the  lace  through  the  holes  shown  in  the  cut 
in  the  following  order:  B,  C,  G,  H,  G,  H,  K,  L,  K,  L, 
O,  P,  O,  P,  N,  M,  N,  M,  J,  I,  J,  I,  F,  E,  F,  E,  B,  C,  B, 
and  then  through  A,  the  other  small  hole  made.  Fasten 
the  lace.  Cut  off  the  ends  and  nick  them,  thus  preventing 
the  lace  from  coming  loose.  This  method  will  be  found 
rather  simple  if  the  directions  are  followed  carefully  and 
practiced  often  enough  to  do  the  lacing  without  referring  to 
the  figures. 

After  these  methods  have  been  mastered,  work  out  some 
original  designs. 

REFERENCES 

Agricultural  Engineering  by  Davidson;  Knots,  Splices  and  Rope 
Work  by  A.  H.  Verrill;  Knots,  Hitches  and  Splices  by  H.  W.  Riley; 
Knotting  and  Splicing  Ropes  and  Cordage  by  Paul  N.  Hasluck; 
Kent's  Mechanical  Engineer's  Pocket  Book;  The  Blue  Book  of  Rope 
Transmission;  Rope  and  Its  Use  on  the  Farm  by  J.  B.  Frear  (Min- 
nesota Agricultural  Experiment  Station  Bulletin  136)  and  Rural  School 
Agriculture  Bulletin  No.  1,  Minnesota  Agricultural  Experiment  Station. 


CHAPTER  IV 
WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 

Requisites  to  the  success  of  manual  training  in  the  school 
might  be  summed  up  under  a  few  heads,  as  follows: 
Encouragement,  a  workbench,  a  few  simple  and  inexpen- 
sive tools,  some  lumber  and  other  supplies,  definite  time  for' 
the  work  each  week,  some  simple  working  drawings,  and 
an  enthusiastic  teacher  to  direct  the  work. 

A  workbench  can  probably  be  made  by  the  students 
themselves  with  a  little  help  from  the  teacher  or  from  some 
man  in  the  community  who  is  "handy"  with  tools.  If 
better  material  is  not  available,  it  may  be  made  of  pine, 
but  should  be  strong  and  durable. 

The  tools  needed  are  a  try-square,  hammer,  backsaw, 
a  few  coping  saws,  plane,  dividers,  chisel,  a  ruler  for  each 
student,  a  brace  and  a  set  of  bits,  wood  file,  screw  driver, 
crosscut  saw  and  a  file  and  saw  set  for  keeping  the  saws  in 
shape.  Students  can  bring  tools  enough  from  home  to 
start. 

It  is  well  to  have  on  hand  a  little  more  lumber  than  is 
actually  needed  for  each  article.  The  following  kinds  of 
lumber  will  be  needed:  Basswood,  one  fourth  inch  thick, 
and  three  eighths  inch  thick;  pine,  three  eighths  inch  thick, 
one  half  inch  thick,  three  eighths  inch  thick,  one  and  one 
half  inches  thick,  and  one  and  three  fourths  inches  thick ; 
oak,  one  half  inch  thick,  one  inch  thick,  one  and  one  half 
inches  thick.  By  referring  to  the  drawings  and  the  material 
for  each  project,  it  will  be  seen  what  the  dimensions  are. 
If  it  is  impossible  to  get  the  exact  thickness  wanted,  get 
the  nearest  to  it. 

47 


48 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


A  few  sheets  of  fine,  medium  and  coarse  sandpaper  should 
be  kept  on  hand.  The  coarse  should  be  used  first,  and  the 
finest  for  getting  the  smooth  surface.  A  bottle  of  shellac,  a 
small  brush  and  a  can  or  two  of  stain  will  complete  the 
equipment  needed. 

Working  drawings  are  necessary  for  accurate  wor!;. 
Those  given  here  are  simple,  and  can  be  easily  understood. 
They  should  be  studied  very  carefully  before  attempting  to 
make  the  articles.  Upon  the  ability  to  read  the  drawings 
and  directions  well  will  largely  depend  the  success  of  the 
project. 

The  student  should  study  from  reference  books  the  use 
of  each  tool  used  and  how  to  take  care  of  it  and  keep  it 
sharp.  He  ought  also  to  know  where  each  kind  of  wood 
used  grows,  how  it  is  manufactured  and  why  it  is  used 
instead  of  some  other  kind  of  material.  The  same  informa- 
tion should  be  obtained  for  all  other  materials  used. 

The  student  should  study  each  cut  of  the  article  to  be 
made  very  carefully  before  attempting  to  do  the  work. 
Read  directions  and  consult  the  cut  again  before  starting. 

1— Key  Label 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  4  inches  by  1M  inches 
by  %  inch. 


Figure  43.     Key  label. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


49 


Tools  Used:     Chisel,  saw,  brace,  bit  and  ruler. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  4  inches  long  and  1% 
inches  wide.  Then  lay  out  the  key  label  following  the 
dimensions  given  in  the  cut.  Chisel  the  edges  carefully 
down  to  the  line.  Bore  the  hole. 


2— Match  Scratcher 


inches   by 


Material:    Basswood   as   follows:     3% 
inches  by  J£  inch.     Sandpaper. 

Tools  Used:  Chisel, 
saw,  dividers,  brace,  bit 
and  sandpaper. 

Directions:  Saw  out 
the  stock  3%  inches  long 
and  21/2  inches  wide. 
Lay  out  match  scratcher 
according  to  directions 
in  the  cut,  using  the 
dividers  to  make  the 
arcs.  Chisel  to  the  pro- 
per shape  and  bore  the 
hole.  Cut  out.  Sand- 
paper till  smooth.  Fit 
the  sandpaper  and  fasten  on  with  glue.  This  is  a  useful 
article  and  will  make  a  nice  little  remembrance. 

3— Fishline  Winder 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  6  inches  by  2%  inches 
by  J4  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Chisel,  saw,  knife  and  ruler. 

Directions :  Saw  out  the  stock  6  inches  long  and  2% 
inches  wide.  Lay  out  the  fishline  winder,  following  direc- 
tions given  in  the  cut.  Chisel  the  sides  to  shape.  With  a 

4— 


Figure  44.     Match  scratcher. 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  45.     Fishline  winder. 

sloyd  knife  or  jackknife  whittle  out  the  ends  to  the  proper 
shape.     Every  boy  will  find  a  use  for  this  article. 

4— Plant  Marker 

Material:  Basswood  as. follows:  one  piece  4J/2  inches  by 
2^/2  inches  by  %  inch;  one  piece  6^  inches  by  1%  inches  by 
J/2  inch. 

Tools  Used:  Chisel, 
saw,  dividers,  knife  and 
hammer. 


Directions:  Saw 
out  the  stock  one  piece 
43/2  inches  by  2%  inch- 
es and  one  piece  6^/2 
inches  by  1J^  inches. 
Lay  out  the  face  of  the 
plant  marker;  then  lay 
out  the  stake.  Using 
the  knife,  whittle  out 
the  face.  Chisel  out 
the  stake.  Nail  the  two 
pieces  together.  The 


Figure  46.     Plant  marker. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


51 


plant  marker  will  be  found  very  useful  in  the  spring  when 
the  vegetable  garden  is  being  made. 

5 — Window  Prop 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  one  piece  %  inch  by  4  inches 
by  11  inches. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  plane,  square  and  chisel. 

Directions:  Plane  stock  to  given  dimensions.  •  Lay  out 
steps.  Saw  and  chisel  to  size. 


^S 


*H 


4 


-2 


Figure  47.     Window  prop. 

6— Soil  Tube 

Material:  Pine  or  basswood  as  follows:  two  pieces  % 
inch  by  2J^  inches  by  4  feet;  one  piece  %  inch  by  2  inches 
by  4  feet;  two  pieces  Y%  inch  by  Y%  inch  by  4  feet;  two  pieces 
J4  inch  by  Y%  mcri  by  4  feet;  one  piece  ^g  inch  by  2  inches  by 
2^8  inches.  Glass  for  front  2  inches  wide  and  4  feet  long. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  hammer,  plane  and  marking  gauge. 

Directions:  Plane  back,  sides  and  bottom  to  dimen- 
sions. Nail  the  two  sides  to  the  back  and  back  and  two 
sides  to  bottom.  Round  off  the  J^-inch  by  %-inch  strips 


52 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


[£\,      2"     - 


on  one  edge  and  fit  in  from 
front  edge  J^  inch  and  nail 
them  in  place.  Round  off 
one  edge  of  ^-inch  by  %- 
inch  strips  and  nail  to  front 
of  tube,  as  shown.  Sand- 
paper. 

7— BUI  File 

Material:  Pine  as  fol- 
lows: one  piece  ^4  inch  by 
2 1/2  inches  by  10  inches. 
Two  10-penny  finishing 
nails. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  ham- 
mer, marking  gauge,  brace 
and  bit. 

Plane  stock  until  smooth.     Lay  out  bevels. 
Bore  small  hole  for  nails.     Drive  nails 


Soil  tube. 


Directions: 

Cut   and  plane. 

through  from  back  at  30-degree  angle,  and  sandpaper  until 

smooth. 


8— Bracket 

Material:  Basswood 
or  pine  as  follows:  one 
piece  M  inch  by  5  inches 
by  5  J/2  inches;  one  piece 
Y±  inch  by  3  inches  by  6 
inches;  one  piece  J^  inch 
by  2^  inches  by  5  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Plane, 
saw,  dividers,  scroll  saw 
and  hammer. 


-zf — 


Figure  49.     Bill  file. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


5,3 


Figure  50.     Bracket. 


Directions: 

Saw  out  stock 
and  plane  to 
thickness.  Lay 
out  top,  back 
and  bracket,  as 
shown.  Cut  to 
line,  using  scroll 
saw.  Glue  and 
nail  together. 
Sandpaper  until 
smooth. 


9 — Newspaper  Holder 

Material:    Pine,  basswood  or  oak  as  follows:  one  piece 
inch  by  10%  inches  by  14  inches;  one  piece  ^  inch  by 
inches  by  10  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  2  inches  by  10 
inches;  one  piece  Y%  inch  by  2  inches  by  10  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw, 
plane,  square,  dividers, 
brace,  bit,  scroll  saw,  mark- 
ing gauge  and  chisel. 

Directions:  Study 
drawing.  Saw  out  stock 
and  plane  it  to  given  di- 
mensions. Lay  out  back 
and  saw  two  upper  corners. 


Glue,    nail   together  and 
sandpaper  until  smooth. 

10 — Planing  Exercise 

Material:     Pine  ^ 
inches  by  1%  inches  by 
inches. 


..as. 


f 


Figure  51.     Newspaper  holder. 


54 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


— li- 


Figure  52.     Planing  exercise. 

Tools  Used:    Plane  and  saw. 

Directions:  Plane  and  square  a  face.  Test  it  with 
try-square.  From  this  face  square  an  edge.  Next  square 
one  end  with  the  squared  face  and  edge.  Cut  to  length  and 
square  end.  Cut  to  width  and  square  edge.  Cut  to  thick- 
ness and  square  face.  While  the  plane  is  necessary  in 
making  the  objects  listed  above,  it  is  not  necessary  to  make 
up  a  planing  exercise  until  more  complicated  projects  are 
executed.  If  students  do  not  get  this  exercise  well  the  first 
time,  it  should  be  repeated,  as  they  will  need  to  be  able  to 
plane  to  the  line  in  making  the  exercises  that  follow. 

11 — Sawing  Exercise 

Material:     Pine  9}^  inches  by  1%  inches  by  1%  inches. 
Tools  Used:     Plane  and  saw. 

Directions:  Plane  and  square  up  the  stock  to  9  inches 
and  ll/2  inches  square.  Study  the  drawing  and  make  saw 


Figure  53.      Sawing  exercise. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


55 


cuts  as  designated  in  the  drawing,  using  the  hacksaw.  This 
exercise  is  also  very  necessary  in  order  to  do  accurately  the 
work  that  follows. 


Figure  54.     Whisk  broom  holder  I. 


12— Whisk  Broom  Holder  I 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  one  piece  8  inches  by 
5  inches  by  %  inch;  one  piece  5  inches  by  5  inches  by  J^ 
inch;  two  pieces  5  inches  by  lJ/£  inches  by  J4  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  plane,  brace,  bit  and  hammer. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  according  to  directions. 
Lay  out  the  back,  front  and  sidepieces.  Plane  the  back, 
front  and  sidepieces  to  the  proper  size.  Then  put  the  parts 
together.  Bore  the  hole  to  hang  the  holder.  This  is  a 
useful  little  article  for  the  kitchen  or  bedroom. 


56 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  DOT 8 


13— Whisk  Broom  Holder  II 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  one  piece  %  inch  by 
8  inches  by  8  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  1%  inches  by 
inches;  three  pieces  %  inch  by  1  inch  by  5%  inches. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  plane,  hammer,  bit  and  brace. 

Directions:  Saw  stock  to  given  dimensions.  Lay  out 

bevel  on  back  and 
plane.  Place  side- 
pieces  upon  back, 
following  dimen- 
sions. Mark  off 
where  bevel  of  the 
back  comes  and  cut 
to  shape.  Place 
three  front  pieces 
on  in  position; 
mark  and  cut  to 
shape.  Glue,  nail 
and  sandpaper  un- 

Figure  55.     Whisk  broom  holder  II.  tij  gmooth 

14— Whisk  Broom  Holder  HI 

Material:  Basswood  as 
follows:  one  piece  %  inch 
by  5  inches  by  9  inches; 
one  piece  %  inch  by  5J4 
inches  by  5J4  inches;  two 
pieces  J4  inch  by  1% 
inches  by  5j/£  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw, 
plane,  marking  gauge, 
chisel,  dividers,  hammer, 
scroll  saw,  brace,  bit  and 

Square.  Figure  56.     Whisk  broom  holder  III. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


57 


Directions:  Saw  out  stock.  Lay  out  back,  front  and 
sidepieces  to  given  dimensions;  then  work  out  to  lines, 
using  scroll  saw  and  chisel. 

15— Salt  Box 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  One  piece  10  inches 
by  5  inches  by  J4  inch;  one  piece  5  inches  by  5  inches  by  J4 
inch;  one  piece  5  inches  by  4J^  inches  by  J4  inch;  two  pieces 
6  inches  by  4  inches  by  l/i  inch;  one  piece  4  inches  by  5 
inches  by  }/±  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  plane,  hammer,  brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Lay  out  the  back,  front,  bottom  and  two 
sides.  Plane  these  pieces  to  the  proper  size.  Put  the  parts 
together,  using  hammer  and  small  nails.  Bore  the  hole. 
This  is  a  ^very  useful  article  for  the  kitchen.  The  salt  will 
be  handy  and  kept  clean,  if  the  cover  of  the  box  is  closed. 


Figure  57.     Salt  box. 


58 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


16— Match  Box  I 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  one  piece  3J/2  inches  by 
inches  by  ^  inch;  one  piece  3J^  inches  by  2  inches  by 
}4  inch;  one  piece  3  inches  by  1%  inches  by  J4  inch;  two 
pieces  8  inches  by  3%  inches  by  %  inch. 


CM 


CO 


Figure  58.     Match  box  I. 

Tools  Used:     Plane,  saw,  hammer,  knife,  dividers,  brace 
and  bit. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  to  the  proper  size,  fol- 
lowing the  cut  and  directions  given  above.  Lay  out  the 
parts,  plane  and  whittle  to  the  proper  size  and  shape.  Nail 
the  pieces  together  and  bore  the  hole. 


17—  Match  Box  II 

Material:     Basswood  as  follows:  one  piece 
inches  by  734  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by 


inch  by 
inches 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


59 


K 

(~\  /- 

\ 

^f 

:T  »-      -f. 

"-«                              -« 

c 

o    ^" 

c 

f 

4 

[H. 

-^ 

vj 

«. 

1      ,. 

+ 

...      _  . 

C 

by  6%  inches; 
one  piece  %  inch 
by  2%  inches  by 
3J4  inches;  one 
piece  J4  incn  by 
inches  by 
inches;  one 
piece  J4  inch  by 
1 J^  inches  by 
3J4  inches;  one 
piece  J4  inch  by 
2J^  inches  by 
3J/2  inches. 

Tools  Used: 
Plane,  saw,  di- 
viders, screw 


Figure  59.     Match  box  II. 

driver,  marking  gauge,  brace,  bit  and  hammer. 

Directions:  Plane  back  to  size.  Round  off  two  top 
corners;  lay  out  the  two  sides  and  cut  them  to  shape.  Plane 
covers  to  proper  size  and  round  off  back  edge.  Plane  two 
front  pieces  to  size;  plane  bottom  to  size.  Glue  and  nail 
back,  sides,  bottom  and  front  pieces.  Put  cover  on  with 
two  screws,  as  shown. 

18— Toothbrush  Holder 

Material:  Basswood  as  follows:  one  piece  7J/^  inches  by 
2%  inches  by  Y±  inch;  one  piece  2%  inches  by  \Y^  inches  by 
%  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  hammer,  plane,  brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  according  to  directions. 
Lay  out  the  back  and  the  holder.  Plane  the  back  and 
holder  to  the  proper  size.  Lay  out  the  chamfer,  or  bevel, 
on  the  back.  Plane  off  the  beveled  edge  to  the  line.  Lay 


60 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


NQC 


MR 


H<M 


Figure  60.     Toothbrush  holder. 

out  the  holes  on  the  holder  and  bore  them  accurately  with 
the  brace  and  bit.  Make  the  saw  cuts.  Study  the  draw- 
ing carefully.  This  is  an  article  that  should  be  in  every 
home  so  that  each  member  of  the  family  can  have  a  definite 
place  for  his  toothbrush.  Incidently,  it  may  be  that  more 
brushes  will  be  used,  if  the  racks  are  made  and  taken  home. 

19— House  Nail  Box 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  one  piece  J/2  inch  by  9  inches 
by  1  foot  2  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  2J^  inches  by  1 
foot  2  inches;  two  pieces  J/2  inch  by  2J/2  inches  by  8  inches; 
one  piece  %  inch  by  5  inches  by  1  foot  1  inch;  one  piece 
Yi  inch  by  2J/£  inches  by  1  foot  1%  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  hammer,  keyhole  saw,  dividers, 
brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Saw  out  stock.  Plane  to  dimensions.  Lay 
out  the  handle  as  dimensions  call  for.  Cut  to  line,  using 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


Gl 


T 


— 1-2- 


Figure  61.     House  nail  box. 

inches  byj^  inch;  two  pieces 


brace  and  bit 
and  keyhole 
saw.  Plane 
stock  and  cut 
for  partitions. 
Nail  on  parts,  as 
shown,  and 
sandpaper  until 
smooth. 

20— Bird  House 
M  aterial: 

Basswood  as  fol- 
lows: two  pieces 
5J4    inches     by 
inches  by  4  inches 


1 
1 

1 

1 

_  _ 

1 

1 

1 

51" 

4|" 

1 

0 

1 

1 

1 

1 

h- 

'  r"~ 

-—I 

a 

Figure  62.     Bird  house. 


62  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

by  M  inch;  one  piece  4j/g  inches  by  3%  inches  by  J4  inch; 
two  pieces  5J/2  inches  by  3J/2  inches  by  %  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Saw,  plane,  hammer,  brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Lay  out  end  pieces  and  cut  them  to  the 
proper  size  with  the  saw.  Lay  out  roof  boards  and  plane 
to  size.  Plane  the  post  to  size.  Assemble  the  pieces  and 
fasten  together.  Paint  any  color  desired.  Gray  or  green 
are  probably  best.  Students  should  be  encouraged  to  make 
bird  houses  and  erect  them  in  the  home  yards,  as  they  will 
then  become  more  interested  in  all  common  birds,  seeing 
their  beauty  as  well  as  usefulness. 

21— Bread  Board 

Material:  Basswood  or  oak  12  inches  by  6  inches  by  % 
inch. 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  saw,  dividers,  wood  file  and  sand- 
paper. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  12  inches  by  6  inches  by 
%  inch.  Square  one  face.  Square  one  edge  with  the 
squared  face.  Square  one  end  with  the  squared  face  and 
edge.  Cut  to  proper  length  and  square  the  end.  Cut  to 
proper  width  and  square  the  edge.  Cut  to  proper  thickness 


12"  - 


Figure  63.     Bread  board. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


and  square  the  face.  Lay  out  curved  ends  with  the  dividers 
and  cut  with  chisel.  Lay  out  rounded  bevel  and  work  round 
with  the  plane.  Smooth  up  the  bevel  with  the  wood  file. 
Sandpaper  the  entire  board  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth. 

22 — Sleeve  Board 

Material:  Pine  or  basswood  as  follows:  two  pieces  22 
inches  by  4^4  inches  by  %  inch;  two  pieces  8J4  inches  by  4 
inches  by  %  inch. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  chisel,  wood  file,  sandpaper, 
brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  according  to  directions. 
Plane  the  bottom  to  the  proper  size  and  round  the  four 
corners.  Lay  out  the  top  board  and  plane  to  the  proper 
size  and  shape.  Make  dowel  holes  and  put  in  the  dowels. 
Put  in  bolts.  Use  wood  file  and  sandpaper  on  all  rough 
edges.  Sandpaper  the  top  until  perfectly  smooth.  This 
is  a  very  useful  article  in  the  home  and  not  difficult  to  make, 
if  the  drawing  and  the  directions  are  followed  carefully. 


Figure  64.     Sleeve  board, 


64 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


23— Knife  Box 

Material:     Oak  as  follows:  one  piece  12%  inches  by 
inches  by  %  inch ;  two  pieces  8  inches  by  5  inches  by  %  inch  ; 
two  pieces  12  inches  by  3  inches  by  %  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Plane,  saw,  hammer,  dividers,  brace,  bit 
and  sandpaper. 

Directions:     After  studying  the  drawing,  saw  out  the 
stock.     Plane  the  bottom  piece  to  the  proper  size.     Lay 


Figure  65.      Knife  box. 

out  the  rounded  bevel  and  plane.  Lay  out  end  pieces  and 
cut  them  to  shape.  Cut  the  holes  for  handles  in  the  end- 
pieces,  using  brace  and  bit.  Cut  sidepieces  to  proper  size. 
Assemble  and  nail  pieces  together.  Sandpaper  the  entire 
box  until  smooth.  This  is  another  very  useful  article. 
While  it  is  called  a  knife  box,  knives,  forks  and  spoons  can 
be  kept  in  it. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


65 


24 — Floor  Broom  Holder 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  one  piece  8  inches  by  3  inches 
by  J4  inch;  one  piece  5^  inches  by  2^  inches  by  %  inch. 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  saw,  brace,  bit,  chisel,  sandpaper 
and  screw  driver. 

Directions:  Square  up  the  bottom  piece  and  the  holder 
to  size,  following  the  drawing  and  the  directions.  Lay  out 
the  bevel  on  the  bottom  piece  and  plane  the  bevel.  Lay 
out  the  holder  and 
cut  to  the  proper 
shape.  Bore  the  hole 
for  the  holder.  Make 
saw  cuts.  Assemble 
and  fasten  the  pieces 
together  with  screws, 
as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  Sandpaper 
carefully  until 
smooth.  This  use- 
ful little  article  will 
be  welcomed  by  any 
housekeeper.  Unless 
there  is  a  proper 
place  for  the  broom, 
it  is  often  short- 
lived and  usually  in  the  way. 

25— Knife,  Fork  and  Spoon  Tray 

Material:  Oak  as  follows:  two  pieces  14^  inches  by 
2J/8  inches  by  ^  inch  thick;  three  pieces  8)4  inches  by  2^ 
inches  by  ^  inch;  one  piece  8J4  inches  by  3^  inches  by  Y% 
inch  thick. 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  saw,  hammer,  chisel,  brace,  bit  and 
sandpaper. 


Figure  66.     Floor  broom  holder. 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


T*^ 

CO 

irfl" 

c 

-1 

"s 

|4| 

X) 

1- 

1 

'IVi 

icO               roloo 

3                   -I 

1      ' 

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t-            in  '                          f 

7 

7" 

T 

CT 

8 

\\ 

8 

6 

~Ni 

ICO 

Figure  67.     Knife,  fork  and  spoon  tray. 


Directions:  After  study- 
ing the  drawing,  plane  the 
sides  and  ends  to  the  proper 
sizes.  Plane  the  partitions  to 
size.  Cut  out  the  handle  and 
make  it  smooth.  Assemble 
and  nail  pieces  together. 
Sandpaper  until  smooth. 

26— Bench  Hook 
Material:  Oak  as  fol- 
lows: one  piece  %  inch  by  12 
inches  by  1  foot  4  inches;  one 
piece  %  inch  by  2  inches  by 
12  inches;  one  piece  %  mch 
by  2  inches  by  10  inches. 


m 


i- 

H^ 


7* 


-S-0 


Figure  68.     Bench  hook. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


67 


Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  marking  gauge,  square,  screw 
driver,  brace  and  drill. 

Directions:  Saw  out  stock  and  plane  to  dimensions 
given.  Screw  the  two  end  pieces  on  as  drawing  calls  for, 
using  drill  slightly  smaller  than  the  shank  of  screw. 

27— Necktie  Rack 

Material:  Oak -as  follows:  three  pieces  16  inches  by  % 
inches  by  %  inch;  two  pieces  5  inches  by  1%  inches  by  Y^ 
inch. 

Tools  Used:     Plane,  saw,  chisel,  sandpaper  and  hammer. 


Figure  69.     Necktie  rack. 

Directions:  Plane  the  front  and  back  pieces  to  the 
proper  size,  following  the  drawing.  Lay  out  the  ends  and 
cut  to  proper  shape.  Nail  the  pieces  together,  and  sand- 
paper carefully.  Stain,  using  any  desired  color.  The  stain 


68 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


may  be  put  on  by  using  a  cloth  and  rubbing  it  into  the  wood 
This  handy  article  would  make  a  useful  Christmas  present 

28— Towel  Roller 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  one  piece  21  %  inches  by 
4%  inches  by  %  inch;  two  pieces  3  inches  by  2  inches  by 
%  inch;  one  piece  20  inches  by  1^  inches  by  lj/2  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  saw,  chisel,  screw  driver,  wood  file, 
brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock.  Plane  and  square  up 
the  back,  the  ends  and  the  roller.  Lay  out  the  bevel  on  the 
back  and  plane  it.  Lay  out  the  ends  and  cut  to  shape. 
Bore  the  holes  in  the  ends  for  the  roller.  Plane  the  roller 
until  it  is  round.  Cut  the  tenons  on  the  ends  of  the  roller 
so  they  will  fit  the  holes  in  the  ends.  Smooth  the  roller  with 
the  wood  file.  Fasten  the  end  pieces  to  the  back  with  screws, 
as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Sandpaper  all  the  pieces  until 
they  are  smooth.  Rub  on  the  stain  with  a  cloth.  Put  the 
roller  in  place.  While  the  family  towel  is  not  sanitary,  it  is 


<L\ 

? 

L 

d 

- 

il 

'm 

Kf 

00 

— 

Figure  70.     Towel  roller. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


69 


better  to  have  it  on  a  roller  than  merely  hung  up  on  a  nail. 
A  roll  of  paper  toweling  could  be  fastened  on  the  roller 
instead  of  the  common  towel. 

29— Milk  Stool 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  two  pieces  10  inches  by  9 
inches  by  %  inch;  one  piece  16  inches  by  5J/£  inches  by  % 
inch;  one  piece  11  inches  by  5j/£  inches  by  %  inch. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane 
and  screw  driver. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the 
stock.  Square  up  the  top, 
the  sidepieces  and  the  bot- 
tom. Lay  out  the  bevel  on 
the  top  and  plane  it  to  the 
line.  Lay  out  the  ends  and 
cut  to  the  proper  shape. 
Bring  pieces  together  and 
fasten  with  screws.  Sand- 
paper until  smooth.  As 
many  of  these  stools  can  be 
used  in  any  dairy  barn  as 
there  are  persons  milking. 


1                         1  F5fa= 

•w 

7J? 

-HC\I 

•7- 

J               U 

H*| 


-5 


Boxes,  up-turned  pails,  and 
other  temporary  things  are 
unhandy,  and  a  stool   can 
be  made  with  very  little  labor  and  expense. 


H'ih 

Figure  71.     Milk  stool. 


30— Camp  Stool 

Material:    Oak  as  follows:  four  pieces  21  inches  by 
inches  by  J/$  inch;  four  pieces  16J/2  inches  by  1  inch  by  1  inch. 

Tools  Used:     Plane,  saw,  wood  file,  sandpaper,  brace 
and  bit. 


70 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


13' 


Directions: 

Square  up  all 
pieces  as 
given  in  the 
drawing.  Bore 
holes  in  the 
sidepieces. 
Round  up  the 
crosspieces, 
usin  g  t  he 
plane.  Bring 
the  parts  to- 


Figure  72.     Camp  stool. 

gether  and  fasten  them  securely.  After  sandpapering  the 
stool  it  should  be  shellacked,  using  a  brush  or  a  cloth.  A 
piece  of  canvas  or  common  grain  sack  may  be  cut  to  the 
desired  size  and  sewed  around  the  crosspieces.  A  few  camp 
stools  on  the  porch  or  on  the  lawn  will  give  enough  extra  com- 
fort to  pay  for  the  work  of  making  them.  Many  boys  plan 
an  outing  in  the  summer.  These  stools  are  collapsible  and 
may  be  packed  away  with  other  camp  utensils,  or  they  may 
be  made  to  come  apart,  the  "take  down"  kind,  and  carried 
in  the  knapsack.  Or  carry  the  canvas  and  make  the  stool. 
31— Another  Toothbrush  Holder 

Material:  Oak  as  follows:  one  piece  8  inches  by 
inches  by  ^  inch;  one  piece  8  inches  by  !J/£  inches  by 
inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  dividers,  bevel,  sandpaper, 
brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Lay  out  the  back  and  cut  to  the  proper 
shape.  Cut  the  holder  to  shape,  using  the  drawing  as  the 
guide.  Fasten  the  pieces  together  securely.  Sandpaper 
until  smooth  and  rub  on  a  stain.  As  will  be  noticed,  this  is 
a  more  difficult  model  than  Number  18  and  more  durable. 


WOODWORK  AT  SCHOOL 


71 


UT-U   1    u    u 


I 


. 


Figure  73.     Another  toothbrush  holder. 


Figure  74.     Tub  stand. 


32— Tub  Stand 

Material:  Oak  as 
follows:  six  pieces  22 
inches  by  2^  inches 
by  24  inch;  one  piece 
17J/2  inches  by  4  in- 
ches by  %  inch;  ten 
pieces  16^  inches  by 
1  inch  by  1  inch;  one 
piece  16  inches  by  5 
inches  by  %  inch;  two 
pieces  36  inches  by 
2 }/2  inches  by  %  inch. 

Tools  Used :  Saw, 
plane,  brace  and  bit. 


72  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

Directions:  Study  the  drawing  carefully.  Square  up  all 
the  pieces  and  cut  them  to  the  proper  size.  Work  each 
piece  to  shape.  Plane  the  crosspieces  until  they  are  round. 
Make  them  smooth  with  the  wood  file  and  sandpaper. 
Fasten  the  pieces  together  firmly.  Finish  with  a  coat  or 
two  of  shellac.  This  is  one  of  the  most  useful  things  that 
could  be  made  for  the  kitchen.  The  rack  can  be  folded  up 
and  put  away  when  not  in  use.  There  is  room  for  two  tubs, 
and  the  wringer  is  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  stand.  While 
it  is  more  difficult  to  make  than  the  other  exercises  given, 
it  is  not  at  all  impossible  for  the  average  boy.  It  would 
also  make  a  good  home  project. 


CHAPTER  V 
HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK 

The  working  drawings  and  directions  for  a  few  very 
useful  home  credit  projects  in  woodwork  are  here  given. 
They  should  suggest  others.  These  projects  have  all  been 
done  by  farm  boys  attending  associated  schools,  and  can 
be  done  by  any  bright,  energetic  young  man. 

If  there  is  not  already  a  workshop  at  home,  one  should 
be  provided.  It  should  contain  a  bench  sufficiently  large 
for  a  man's  convenience.  Boxes  or  drawers,  shelves  and 
racks  should  be  provided  and  arranged  conveniently  for 
holding  tools.  The  following  list  of  tools  and  equipment 
will  be  needed: 

Tools  for  Farm  Shop 

1  Bench  1  Set  of  chisels 

Vise  6  Gouges,  assorted  sizes 
Jointer  plane,  22-inch  Ratchet  brace,  12-inch  sweep 

Jack  plane,  14-inch  Set  of  general  purpose  wrenches 

Block  plane,  6-inch  Monkey  wrenches — 1  large,  1  small 

Ripsaw,  24-inch,  6  points  Glass  cutter 

Crosscut  saw,  22-inch,  8  points         Drawknife,  10-inch 
Keyhole  saw  Mallet 

Steel  square,  2-foot  Spokeshave 

Try-square,  8-inch  Marking  gauge 

Sliding  bevel,  8-foot  2  Hand  screw  drivers— one  5-inch, one  10-inch 

Claw  hammer  1  Set  of  bits 

Pair  dividers,  8-inch  2  Countersinks — 1  for  wood,  1  for  iron 

Plumb  and  level  1  Breast  drill 

Hand  axe  1  Set  of  drills 

1— Workbench 

Material:  Fir  or  pine  as  follows:  one  piece  3  inches  by 
12  inches  by  5  feet  8  inches;  four  pieces  4  inches  by  4  inches 
by  2  feet  3  inches;  three  pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  4 
feet  2  inches;  two  pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  1  foot  6 
inches;  three  pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  1  foot  4  inches; 
one  piece  %  inch  by  12  inches  by  4  feet  2  inches;  one  piece 

73 


74 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


%  inch  by  8  inches  by  5  feet  8  inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by 
3  inches  by  6  feet;  two  pieces  2  inches  by  3  inches  by  1  foot 
8  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  3  inches  by  8  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  hammer,  monkey  wrench, 
screw  driver,  square,  brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Cut  the  legs  to  proper  length  and  plane. 
Lay  out  housing  for  the  2  inches  by  4  inches.  Cut  the  side 


-t-8- 


a4" 


1 


Figure  75.     Workbench. 

rails  and  end  rails  to  length,  fitting  them  into  housing  tightly. 
Bore  holes  through  the  center  of  each  joint  and  bolt,  using 
5/8-inch  bolts.  Plane  up  the  2-inch  by  4-inch  by  1  foot 
4-inch  pieces,  bolting  them  to  the  inside  and  top  of  legs. 
Plane  front  board  to  dimensions  and  screw  to  the  legs. 
Nail  the  other  2-inch  by  4-inch  by  1  foot  4-inch  pieces  in 
place,  as  shown.  Plane  up  the  top  to  dimensions.  Place 
the  top  in  position,  letting  it  extend  out  1  inch  over  the 
front  edge  and  10  inches  over  the  left  end  and  fasten  in 
place  with  screws.  Plane  up  the  %-inch  by  8-inch  by  5 
feet  8-inch  board  to  size  and  nail  in  place.  Glue  and  screw 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN    WOODWORK 


75 


the  two  2-inch  endpieces  in  place.  Glue  and  screw  the 
%-inch  by  3-inch  by  6-foot  piece  to  the  back  of  the  top. 
Sandpaper  until  smooth  and  shellac. 

2— Shop  Nail  Box 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  one  piece  %  inch  by  10  inches 
by  1  foot  2  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  3%  inches  by  1  foot 
3J/2  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  3%  inches  by  10  inches; 
one  piece  %  inch  by  6  inches  by  1  foot  2  inches;  one  piece  % 

inch  by  3  inches 
by  1  foot  1% 
inches. 

Tools  Used: 
Saw,  plane,  ham- 
mer,  keyhole 
saw,  dividers, 
brace  and  bit. 

Directions: 
Saw  out  stock. 
Plane  to  dimen- 
sions. Lay  out 
the  handle  as 
dimensions  call 


Figure  76.     Shop  nail  box. 

for.    Cut  to  line, 

using  brace  and  bit  and  keyhole  saw.  Plane  stock  and  cut 
for  partitions.  Nail  on  parts  as  shown.  Sandpaper  until 
smooth. 

3 — Shop  Horse 

Material:  Fir  or  pine  as  follows:  oixe  piece  2  inches  by 
4  inches  by  3  feet;  four  pieces  J^  inch  by  4  inches  by  2  feet; 
two  pieces  %  inch  by  5  inches  by  7  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  hammer,  marking  gauge,  brace, 
drill  and  screw  driver. 


76 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


\ 

.... 

I 

// 

f     •: 

Jr 

Figure  77.     Shop  horse. 


Directions: 

Saw  out  the 
stock  as  dimen- 
sions  call  for. 
Bevel  the  four 
legs,  as  shown 
in  the  drawing. 
Plane  the  two 
endpieces  to 
shape.  Drill 
holes  for  screws  and  screw  parts  together,  as  drawing  shows. 

4 — Fly  Trap 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  Two  pieces  %  inch  by  8 
inches  by  1  foot;  three  pieces  %  inch  by  1  inch  by  2  feet; 
two  pieces  %  inch  by  %  inch  by  2  feet;  three  pieces  %  inch 
by  6J/2  inches  by  6  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  %  inch  by 
2  feet;  three  pieces  %  inch  by  1J/2  inches  by  5  inches;  two 
pieces  J^  inch  by  1  inch  by  6J^  inches;  one  piece  %  inch, 
by  10  inches  by  2  feet;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  2  inches  by 
10  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  crosscut  saw,  ripsaw,  keyhole  saw, 
marking  gauge,  square,  hammer  and  dividers. 

Directions:  Lay  out  two  endpieces,  as  shown,  and  saw 
to  lines.  Get  out  two  pieces  %  inch  by  %  inch  by  2  feet 
long,  nailing  to  botton  of  the  2  ends,  as  shown  in  drawing. 
Cover  this  with  fly  screen  leaving  bottom  open.  Then  nail 
in  place  the  three  brace 'pieces  %  inch  by  1  inch  by  2  feet. 
Lay  out  your  three  %-inch  by  6^-inch  by  6-inch  pieces,  as 
shown,  and  cut  to  shape.  Make  frame,  using  two  J^-inch 
by  3/£-inch  by  2-feet  pieces  and  three  j^-inch  by  iV^-inch 
by  5-inch  pieces.  Nail  together  putting  the  J^-inch  by  1-inch 
by  6J/2-inch  cleat  on  each  end.  Then  nail  the  triangular 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK 


77 


Figure  78.     Fly  trap,  adapted  from  Minnesota  Agricultural  College  bulletin. 

shaped  pieces  in  place,  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  Cover  the  two  sides  with 
screen,  leaving  bottom  and  top  open. 
Get  out  the  bottom  piece.  Screw  two 
cleats  on,  as  shown.  Make  two  bait 
pans  to  dimensions  and  fasten  them  in 
place,  as  shown.  Shellac  or  paint. 

6—  Fireless  Cooker 

Material:    Oak  or  pine  as  follows: 
Two  pieces  %  inch  by  2  feet  11  inches 

1          i    r        j_    fr    •         i  •  OX-IT 

by  1  foot  7  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by 

1  foot  6  inches  by  1  foot  7  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  1 

foot  6  inches  by  2  feet  9^  inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  2 


Figure  78a.    Section 

view  of   ^3^  traP- 


78 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOJS 


J 


Figure  79.     Fireless  cooker.     Above,  top  view  with  cover 
removed.     Below,  sectional  view  of  cover. 


feet  1 1  inches  by 
1  foot  7^2  inch-, 
es;  eight  pieces 
24  inch  by  4 
inches  by  1  foot 
7  inches;  two 
pieces  %  inch  by 
4  inches  by  1 
foot  8  inches; 
two  pieces  % 
inch  by  2^  inch- 
es by  1  foot  8 
inches;  two 
pieces  %  inch 
by  1H  inches  by 
4  feet;  two 
pieces  %  inch  by 
4  inches  by  2  feet 
1  inch;  two  pieces 
M  inch  by  2J^ 
inches  by  3  feet 
1  inch;  two 
pieces  %  inch  by 
\y<z  inches  by  1 
foot  9  inches;  two  50-lb.  lard  pails  or  any  other  suitable 
can  about  the  same  size  with  a  cover. 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  crosscut  saw,  ripsaw,  keyhole  saw, 
two-foot  square,  brace,  quarter-inch  bit,  screw  driver,  ham- 
mer and  marking  gauge. 

Directions:  Glue  up  stock  wide  enough  to  make  top, 
bottom,  sidepieces,  endpieces  and  the  inside  piece.  Work 
out  to  given  dimensions.  Glue  and  nail  sidepieces  to  ends. 
Fit  in  bottom.  Glue  and  nail  in  place.  Plane  up  the  nar- 


Figure  79a.     Fireless  cooker.     Sectional  view  on  A-A, 
showing  cover  and  packing. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK 


79 


row  strips  to  size  for  outside  trimming.  Glue  and  screw 
on  from  inside  of  box.  Work  out  cover  so  it  will  fit  flush 
with  the  outside  edge  of  sidepieces  and  endpieces.  Plane 
up  IJ^-inch  strips  to  fit  around  cover,  mitering  the  corners. 
Glue  and  screw  on.  Fill  box  about  3  inches  from  bottom 
with  suitable  packing,  such  as  ground  cork,  hay,  wadded 
paper  or  wadding.  Place  lard  cans  so  there  will  be  about 

3  inches  of  space  all  around.     Fill  this  space  with  packing 
to  within  2  inches  of  top  of  can.     Saw  out  inside  piece  to  fit 
over  the  two  cans,  setting  it  down  about  1  inch  from  top. 
Glue  and  nail  in  place.     Make  cushion  for  inside  of  cover, 
as  shown,  making  it  plenty  large  enough  so  that  it  will  press 
down  on  cans  tightly.     Sandpaper  all  parts  that  show  and 
stain  and  varnish. 

6— Folding  Ironing  Table 

Material:     Pine  as  follows:  one  piece  1J4  inches  by  1  foot 

4  inches  by  5  feet  6  inches.     Oak  as  follows:  two  pieces  % 


Figure  80.     Folding  ironing  table. 


80  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOT8 

inch  by  2  inches  by  4  feet;  two  pieces  24  inch  by  2  inches  by 
2  feet  1  inch;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  2  inches  by  1  foot  824 
inches;  one  piece  24  inch  by  4  inches  by  2  feet  3  inches;  one 
piece  1J4  inches  by  2J^  inches  by  1  foot  4  inches;  one  piece 
24  inch  by  1J/2  inches  by  1  foot  6  inches;  one  piece  1  inch  by 
24  inch  by  1  foot  6  inches;  one  piece  24  inch  by  24  inch  by  1 
foot  2J/£  inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  %  inch  by  1  foot  5% 
inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  %  inch  by  1  foot  4J/2  inches; 
one  piece  %  inch  by  24  inch  by  1  foot  1  inch. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  dividers,  hammer,  chisel,  brace, 
bit  and  screw  driver. 

Directions:  Saw  out  the  stock  for  bottom  pieces  and 
plane  to  dimensions.  Lay  out  holes,  as  shown,  and  bore, 
using  24-inch  bit.  Round  off  %  inch  at  the  edge  of  each  end 
of  the  lJ4-inch  by  2J^-inch  by  1  foot  4-inch  piece.  Plane 
the  corners  of  24-inch  by  %-inch  pieces,  making  them  eight- 
sided.  Round  off  ends  to  fit  24-inch  holes  bored  in  the  2- 
inch  strips.  Lay  out  the  24-inch  by  4-inch  by  2  feet  3-inch 
piece,  as  shown  in  the  front  support,  cutting  54-inch  tenon 
on  the  4-inch  end  and  cutting  a  mortise  in  the  24-inch  by 
3/2-inch  by  1  foot  6-inch  piece.  Lay  out  the  top,  as 
shown,  and  saw  and  plane  to  lines.  Fit  all  eight-sided  pieces 
in,  as  shown,  nailing  through  the  outside  2-inch  pieces. 
Fasten  the  top  with  screws. 

7— Clothes  Bar 

Material:  Oak  as  follows:  sixteen  pieces  24  inch  by  1% 
inches  by  2  feet  1  inch;  four  pieces  %  inch  by  1%  inches  by 
foot  2  inches;  two  pieces  24  inch  by  124  inches  by  2  feet; 
fifteen  pieces  %  inch  by  24  inch  by  3  feet;  one  piece  24  inch 
by  %  inch  by  2  feet  9  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  chisel,  dividers,  hammer,  brace 
and  bit. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK  81 

i. — /-^-l 


Figure  81.     Clothea  bar. 

Directions:  Saw  out  stock,  plane  the 
sidepieces  to  size  and  bore  holes.  Round 
off  the  rungs  lj/2  inches  on  each  end. 
Plane  corners,  making  them  eight-sided. 
Put  together,  as  shown,  nailing  through 
the  outside  pieces.  Sandpaper. 

8 — Common  Ladder 

Material:  Fir  or  pine  as  follows:  two 
pieces  1%  inches  by  3%  inches  by  14  feet; 
thirteen  pieces  lJ/£  inches  by  1^  inches 
by  2  feet  3  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  marking 
gauge,  dividers,  brace,  bit  and  hammer. 


r 


-r- 


Figure  82.     Common 
ladder. 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Directions:  Lay  out  sides  to  shape,  as  given,  and  bore 
holes.  Work  out  rungs  to  shape  and  fit  to  sidepieces. 

9 — Outside  Stepladder 

Material:  Oak  as  follows:  two  pieces  %  inch  by  3  inches 
by  6  feet  4  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  1%  inches  by  6  feet 
3  inches;  one  piece  1  inch  by  4  inches  by  1  foot  7  inches;  one 
piece  1  inch  by  4  inches  by  1  foot  3^  inches;  one  piece  1  inch 


Figure  83.     Outside  stepladder. 


by  4  inches  by  1  foot  2%  inches;  one  piece  1  inch  by  4  inches 
by  1  foot  \y<i  inches;  one  piece  1  inch  by  4  inches  by  1  foot 
1  inch;  one  piece  %  inch  by  8  inches  by  1  foot  8  inches;  two 
pieces  %  inch  by  1  inch  by  1  foot  8  inches;  3  pieces  Y^  inch 
by  2  inches  by  11  inches;  two  pieces  J4  inch  by  1/4  inches  by 
3  feet  10  inches;  one  piece  J4  inch  by  1J^  inches  by  1  foot  8 
inches;  one  piece  J4  inch  by  1J4  inches  by  1  foot  1  inch. 
Iron  as  follows:  2  pieces  J/g  inch  by  4  inches  by  6  inches; 
two  pieces  y%  inch  by  1  inch  by  6  inches. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK  83 

Tools  Used:  Plane,  saw,  hammer,  brace,  bit,  drill, 
marking  gauge,  keyhole  saw  and  monkey  wrench. 

Directions:  Saw  out  stock  to  dimensions  and  plane. 
Lay  out  two  sidepieces  for  treads.  House  in  J4  inch.  Plane 
treads  to  size,  as  given.  Cut  the  ends  of  the  6  feet  4-inch 
pieces  on  a  20  angle.  Fasten  the  treads  in  place  with  screws. 
Bend  the  two  pieces  of  J/g-inch  by  4-inch  by  6-inch  iron  to 
angle  shown,  drilling  holes  as  shown.  Bolt  on  to  front  string- 
ers, using  J^-inch  bolts.  Plane  the  two  back  strips  to  dimen- 
sions. Round  off  one  end,  as  shown,  fastening  to  top  with 
bolts.  Let  these  pieces  rest  on  back  of  stringers.  Plane  up 
the  ^-inch  strips,  cut  to  dimensions  and  fasten  on  back. 
Get  out  stock  for  pail  holder,  as  shown,  fastening  in  place 
under  the  second  tread,  as  shown,  using  bolts  and  J^-inch 
by  1-inch  by  6-inch  iron  strips,  as  shown.  Drill  two  holes 
through  the  top  of  the  angle-iron  on  each  side.  Bolt  the 
top  tread  to  it.  Sandpaper  until  smooth  and  shellac. 

10— Shoe  Blacking  Stand 

Material:  Pine  or  oak  as  follows:  four  pieces  \y%  inches 
by  1^  inches  by  11%  inches;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  5  inches 
by  1  foot  1/2  inch;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  5  inches  by  8^ 
inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  8  inches  by  1  foot  1  inch;  two 
pieces  %  inch  by  6  inches  by  1  foot  4  inches;  one  piece  J^ 
inch  by  1%  inches  by  10  inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  1  inch 
by  lYi  inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  2^  inches  by  8  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  hammer,  chisel,  brace,  bit, 
screw  driver,  marking  gauge  and  dividers. 

Directions:  Plane  legs  to  dimensions.  Lay  out  the 
mortises,  as  shown,  and  cut  out  %  inch  deep.  Plane  sides 
and  ends  to  dimensions.  Lay  out  and  cut  tenons.  Plane 
bottom  and  fit  in.  Plane  top.  Fasten  one  half  of  the  top 
to  the  sides  and  ends.  Fasten  other  half  with  hinges. 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


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Figure  84.     Shoe  blacking  stand. 


Figure  85.     Chicken  coop. 

Lay  out  foot  rest,  as  shown  in  drawing,  and  fasten  to  the 
under  side  of  lower  half  of  top.  Glue  mortise  and  tenon 
joints.  Sandpaper  until  smooth. 

11 — Chicken  Coop 

Material:  Pine  as  follows:  four  pieces  %  inch  by  12 
inches  by  24  feet;  two  pieces  %  inch  by  1^  inches  by  2  feet 
10  inches;  two  pieces  ^  inch  by  1%  inches  by  1  foot  9  inches; 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK 


85 


Figure  86.     Three-horse  evener. 


two  pieces  ^  inch  by  1J/2  inches  by  1  foot  5  inches;  two 
pieces  %  inch  by  1^  inches  by  10  inches. 

Tools  Used:     Plane,  saw,  hammer,  square,  brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  See  drawing.  Join  the  two  sides  together. 
Nail  sides  in  V  shape.  Put  on  slats,  front  and  back.  Paint. 

12 — Three-horse  Evener 

*  Material: 

Oak  as  follows: 
one  piece  2 
inches  by  6 
inches  by  4  feet 
4  inches;  one 
piece  2  inches  by 
4  inches  by  3 

feet;  three  pieces  2  inches  by  3  inches  by  2  feet  4  inches. 
Tools  Used:    Saw,  plane,  hammer,  wrench,  draw  knife, 

brace  and  bit. 

Directions:    Lay  out  the  stock,   as  shown.     Saw  and 

plane  to  lines.     Fit  irons  to  whiffletrees.     Bore  holes  for  eye 

bolts  and  clevises,  as  shown.     Sandpaper  and  paint. 

13 — Four-horse  Evener 

Material:  Oak  as  follows:  one  piece  2  inches  by  6 
inches  by  5  feet  4  inches;  two  pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by 
3  feet;  four  pieces  2  inches  by  3  inches  by  2  feet  4  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  plane,  hammer,  wrench,  draw  knife, 
brace  and  bit. 

Directions:     Lay  out  the  stock,  as  shown.     Saw  and 

plane  to  lines. 
Fit  irons  to 
whiffletrees. 
Bore  holes  for 
eye  bolts  and 

Figure  87.     Four-horse  evener.  clevises,     as 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


shown.  It  is  not  necessary  to  use  strap  iron  clevises.  The 
same  kind  of  irons  as  used  on  three-horse  evener  may  be 
used.  Sandpaper  and  paint. 

14 — Five-horse  Evener 


TO    PLOW 


Material: 

Oak  as  follows: 
one  piece  2 
inches  by  7 
inches  by  4  feet 
4  inches;  2 
pieces  2  inches 
by  4  inches  by  3 
feet;  five  pieces 
2  inches  by  3 
inches  by  2  feet 
4  inches;  one 
piece  2  inches  by 
6  inches  by  1 
foot  6  inches. 

Tools   Used: 
Saw,  plane,  hammer,  wrench,  draw  knife,  brace  and  bit. 

Directions:  Lay  out  the  stock,  as  shown.  Saw  and 
plane  to  lines.  Fit  irons  to  whiffletrees.  Bore  holes  for  eye 
bolts  and  clevises,  as  shown.  It  is  not  necessary  to  use  eye 
bolts.  Whiffletree  irons  and  clevises  may  be  used  as  on 
three-horse  evener.  Sandpaper  and  paint 

15— Stock  Rack 

Material:  Fir  as  follows:  two  pieces  3  inches  by  6  inches 
by  14  feet.  Pine  as  follows:  eight  pieces  1  inch  by  6  inches 
by  14  feet;  six  pieces  1  inch  by  4  inches  by  14  feet;  five  pieces 
1  inch  by  8  inches  by  14  feet  ship-lap.  Oak  as  follows:  five 


Figure  88.     Five-horse  evener. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK 


87 


pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  3  feet  2  inches;  fourteen  pieces 
2  inches  by  3  inches  by  4  feet  9  inches. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  hammer,  square,  wrench,  brace  and 
bit. 

Directions:  Cut  the  fir  stock  to  dimensions  given.  Cut 
2-inch  by  4-inch  oak  to  size.  Bolt  the  same  to  stringers, 
using  either  an  8-inch  common  bolt  or  an  8-inch  U  bolt. 
Bolt  on  the  stake  irons,  as  shown,  fitting  stakes  to  same. 
Space  off  distances  for  sides,  as  shown  in  drawing,  bolting 
the  same  to  stakes.  Space  off  distances  on  the  end  gate 
stakes  and  bolt  in  place.  Screw  a  piece  of  1  inch  by  4  in- 
ches each  side  of  end  gate  to  hold  the  same  in  place  using 
end  gate  rod  at  the  top.  Paint. 

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Figure  89.     Stock  rack. 

16— Wagon  Box 

Material:  Yellow  poplar  or  spruce  as  follows:  two  pieces 
1  inch  by  14  inches  by  10  feet  6}/£  inches;  two  pieces  1  inch 
by  14  inches  by  3  feet;  twelve  pieces  1  inch  by  2^  inches  by 
1  foot  2  inches;  one  piece  %  inch  by  7  inches  by  2  feet  9^ 
inches;  two  pieces  1  inch  by  3^  inches  by  2  feet  8  inches. 
Oak  as  follows:  two  pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  3  feet  2 
inches;  two  pieces  2  inches  by  4  inches  by  4  feet.  Twelve 
pieces  1  inch  by  4  inches  12  foot  fir  flooring.  One  set  of 
wagon  box  irons. 


88 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

I 

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i 


Figure  90.     Wagon  box. 

Tools  Used:  Saw,  hammer,  square,  dividers,  keyhole 
saw,  wrench,  brace,  bit  and  screw  driver. 

Directions:  Cut  the  2-inch  by  4-inch  oak  to  dimensions. 
Cut  the  flooring  and  nail  to  2-inch  by  4-inch  oak.  Rivet 
side  irons  to  wagon  box  sides.  Screw  the  cleats  in  place, 
as  shown,  then  bolt  them  to  the  bottom.  Cut  end  gates 
to  dimensions.  Screw  cleats  in  place.  Bolt  the  foot  rest 
irons  in  place  on  the  front  of  the  end  gate,  bolting  the  foot 
rest  to  the  same.  Place  the  end  gates  in  position,  boring 
holes  for  end  gate  rods.  Screw  the  1-inch  by  3j^-inch 
by  2  feet  8-inch  pieces  in  place  and  bolt  the  side  brace 
irons  on,  as  shown.  Sandpaper  and  paint. 

17— Farm  Gate 

Farm  gates  are  too  often  allowed  to  sag  and  become  a 
nuisance.  A  simple  rigid  gate  may  be  made  as  follows: 
Saw  six  four-inch  pine  boards  of  ordinary  thickness  the 
length  of  the  opening  between  the  posts.  If  the  posts  are 
not  set,  place  them  twelve  feet  apart,  as  a  gate  that  wide 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK 


89 


Figure  91.      Farm  gate. 

is  sometimes  necessary.  If  the  lumber  is  not  already  dressed, 
plane  both  surfaces  and  the  edges.  Using  the  same  kind 
of  lumber,  saw  two  crosspieces  for  the  ends,  each  four  feet 
two  inches  long.  Nail  the  six  boards  to  these  ends,  keeping 
the  top  and  bottom  boards  one  inch  from  the  ends  of  the 
crosspieces,  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  spaces  between 
the  boards  should  be  narrow  at  the  bottom  of  the  gate  to 
prevent  small  animals  from  getting  through.  The  drawing 
shows  three  inches  for  the  first  space,  three  and  three  fourths 
for  the  second,  four  and  three  fourths  for  the  third,  six  for 
the  fourth,  and  six  and  one  half  for  the  top  space.  These 
spaces  should  be  accurately  measured  and  marked  before 
the  boards  are  fastened.  As  soon  as  the  boards  are  fastened 
lay  a  four-inch  board  diagonally  across  the  gate  from  the 
lower  hinge  end  to  the  upper  other  end.  Mark  and  saw  to 
fit.  Nail  to  each  board  and  clinch  the  nails.  Using  another 
four-inch  piece  of  board,  lay  it  so  that  one  end  is  just  even 
with  the  upper  edge  of  the  top  board  about  three  feet  from 
the  hinge  end  of  the  gate.  Mark  it  to  fit  the  diagonal  brace. 
Saw  and  nail  to  the  four  boards  and  toenail  to  the  diagonal. 
In  a  similar  manner  cut  and  fit  a  brace  for  the  lower  part  of 
the  gate  at  about  seven  and  one  half  feet  from  the  hinge  end. 
Sometimes  double  bracing  is  desired  and  boards  are  fastened 
on  each  side  of  the  gate.  In  this  event  it  is  best  to  use  bolts 


90  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

instead  of  nails,  and  a  third  hinge  will  be  needed  to  support 
the  extra  weight.  Use  strong  hinges.  Give  the  gate  two 
coats  of  good  paint. 

18— Bracing  Corner  Posts 

It  is  sometimes  said  that  the  corner  post  is  half  the  fence. 
Without  a  good  corner  post  there  can  be  no  good  fence. 
Notice  any  fence  where  the  wire  has  sagged  and  you  can 
usually  trace  the  trouble  to  the  corner.  The  strain  has 
either  pulled  the  post  part  way  out  or  the  post  has  not  re- 
mained perpendicular.  If  barbed  wire  is  allowed  to  sag  in 
this  manner,  it  becomes  extremely  dangerous  to  stock. 

A  corner  post  should  be  larger  and  one  or  two  feet  longer 
than  the  ordinary  post.  The  hole  should  be  dug  correspond- 
ingly deeper  and  large  enough  to  have  plenty  of  room  for 
setting.  If  a  wooden  post  is  used,  short  pieces  of  plank  may 
be  securely  nailed  at  right  angles  to  each  other  near  the 
bottom  of  the  post  to  prevent  the  wire  from  pulling  the 
posts  up.  The  hole  may  be  partly  filled  with  rock  and  the 
spaces  filled  with  earth  tamped  in  solidly  or,  better  still, 
with  cement.  After  almost  filling  the  hole  with  earth,  more 
rock  should  be  placed  at  the  surface.  At  the  bottom  of  the 
post  and  at  the  surface  of  the  earth  are  the  places  of  greatest 
strain.  See  that  the  post  is  set  so  that  it  is  perpendicular. 

Bracing  the  post  is  the  most  important  part  of  the  pro- 
cess. Heavy  poles  may  be  used,  or  a  four  by  four,  if  avail- 
able. Saw  a  notch  in  the  corner  post  about  ten  inches  from 
the  top  and  another  in  the  brace  post  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  bottom.  Drive  the  brace  firmly  into  these 
notches.  In  the  same  manner  connect  the  corner  post  with 
the  other  post.  The  two  fence  posts  nearest  to  the  corner 
are  used  for  brace  posts.  Using  strong  wire,  brace  the  bot- 
tom of  the  corner  post  to  the  top  of  the  two  brace  posts, 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK  91 

being  careful  to  draw  the  wire  tight  and  fasten  it  securely. 
Such  a  corner  post  will  not  give  trouble.  Setting  a  corner 
post  and  bracing  it  may  be  demonstrated  on  the  school 
grounds  very  easily,  if  it  seems  desirable. 

19 — Road  Drag 

One  of  the  most  useful  implements  for  road  work  is  the 
King  drag,  or  more  commonly  known  as  the  "split-log" 
drag.  It  bears  the  name  of  the  man  who  first  made  known 
its  utility.  It  is  made  from  a  ten  or  twelve-inch  log  split 
in  two.  The  halves  are  faced  the  same  way  and  fastened 
about  three  feet  apart  with  wooden  bars.  A  chain  is  at- 
tached in  the  direction  of  the  smooth  faces  and  the  drag 
drawn  at  an  angle  that  will  cause  the  earth  to  be  pushed 
toward  the  center  of  the  road.  The  drag  may  now  be  pur- 
chased in  an  improved  form,  but  it  is  a  good  exercise  for 
farm  boys  to  make  one,  and  for  a  rural  school,  where  there 
are  boys  old  enough,  to  do  the  work. 

Suggest  to  the  school  board  or  to  the  officers  of  the 
farmers'  club  in  the  district  that  the  school  be  allowed  to 
keep  the  road  in  repair  near  the  school  for  a  distance  of 
eighty  rods  or  a  half-mile,  as  seems  best.  Make  a  drag  and 
"borrow"  a  team  from  home,  the  older  boys  taking  turns. 
The  road  should  be  dragged  very  soon  after  each  rain  while 
the  soil  is  still  moist.  A  mistake  is  often  made  in  allowing  the 
road  to  get  too  dry  before  the  drag  is  put  on.  Other  stu- 
dents can  assist 
in  various  ways 
in  keeping  the 
piece  of  road  in 
repair.  If  neigh- 
boring  schools 
Figure  92.  Spiit-ioTdrag.  enter  into  a  con- 


92  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

test  for  the  best  piece  of  road,  and  disinterested  judges  are  ap- 
pointed for  the  annual  inspection,  a  great  deal  of  interest 
can  be  maintained  and  much  valuable  knowledge  learned 
about  road  work.  If  prizes  are  offered,  still  greater  interest 
will  prevail.  Any  group  of  "live  boys"  in  a  school  district 
can  get  such  a  contest  started. 

To  make  the  drag,  get  a  log  about  ten  inches  in  diameter 
and  seven  feet  long.  If  there  is  a  sawmill  near,  have  the  log 
sawed  lengthwise.  If  not,  split  it  carefully  in  two,  and  with 
a  sharp  ax  or  adz  make  the  split  surfaces  smooth.  From 
some  hard  and  tough  wood,  such  as  maple  or  ironwood, 
make  three  crosspieces  each  three  feet  six  inches  long. 
With  an  ax  or  drawshave  trim  these  down  to  two  inches  in 
diameter.  With  a  two-inch  auger  bore  a  hole  a  few  inches 
from  one  end  of  one  piece  of  the  log.  Bore  another  hole  two 
and  a  half  feet  from  this  one  and  another  five  feet  from  the 
first.  These  holes  should  be  made  at  an  angle  of  about 
thirty  degrees.  (See  illustration.)  In  a  similar  manner  bore 
holes  in  the  other  half  of  the  log,  keeping  the  angle  in  such 
a  direction  that  the  crosspieces  will  fit.  Before  fastening 
the  pieces  of  the  log  together,  arrange  them  so  that  the 
hole  near  the  end  of  the  front  piece  is  at  the  left,  and  the 
one  farthest  from  the  end  in  the  back  piece  at  the  left.  Drive 
the  pieces  together  and  wedge  the  braces  securely.  Another 
brace,  a  two  by  four  or  something  heavier,  should  be  fastened 
near  the  end  of  the  front  piece  to  the  end  of  the  back  piece 
near  the  other  brace.  This  brace  will  strengthen  the  drag 
where  the  greatest  strain  occurs.  If  possible,  get  a  piece  of 
iron  plate,  and  have  four  holes  drilled  in  it  at  a  blacksmith's. 
Place  this  plate  on  the  bottom  and  cutting  end  of  the  front 
part  of  the  drag.  This  plate  will  make  the  drag  wear  and 
cut  better.  It  should  be  firmly  fastened  with  countersink 
bolts.  A  chain  about  twelve  feet  long  is  fastened  about 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  WOODWORK  93 

the  middle  of  the  log  at  the  right  end  of  the  drag  and  extends 
over  the  top  of  the  log  at  the  left  end  and  is  fastened  to  the 
round  brace.  The  team  is  hitched  to  the  chain  at  about 
three  feet  from  the  end  at  the  right.  If  desired,  a  bottom 
may  be  made  of  boards  fastened  to  the  braces. 

If  it  seems  impossible  to  construct  a  full  sized  drag  and 
make  use  of  it  in  road  contests  between  schools  as  here  sug- 
gested, much  benefit  can  be  derived  from  discussions  and  the 
making  of  miniature  road  drags,  culverts  and  bridges  as 
part  of  tbe  knife  work  in  manual  training. 


CHAPTER  VI 
HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON 

As  wood  and  lumber  have  become  scarcer  it  has  been 
more  and  more  necessary  to  substitute  other  materials  for 
them-.  Metals,  especially  iron  and  steel,  have  been  in  use 
for  a  long  time,  but  recently  a  mixture  known  as  concrete 
has  come  into  general  use  on  the  farm  as  well  as  elsewhere. 
Less  than  fifty  years  ago  the  first  cement  mill  in  the  United 
States  was  built  in  Pennsylvania.  Now  the  annual  output 
is  approximately  one  hundred  million  barrels,  and  is  in- 
creasing rapidly. 

Cement  is  the  basis  of  concrete.  There  are  two  kinds — 
the  natural  and  the  artificial.  The  former  is  found  in  the 
natural  state,  is  burned,  ground  into  a  powder  and  put  on 
the  market.  But  little  of  this  kind  is  now  used.  Portland 
cement,  the  best  known  artificial  cement,  has  been  so  named, 
because  it  resembles  a  stone  quarried  near  Portland,  Eng- 
land. It  is  made  by  heating  lime  and  clay  in  a  special 
furnace.  The  principal  ingredients  of  cement  are  silica, 
lime,  iron  oxide  and  alumina.  It  may  be  purchased  in 
paper  sacks,  cloth  sacks  and  in  bulk,  but  the  common  form 
is  the  cloth  sack  which  contains  ninety-four  pounds  net. 
A  sack  of  cement  is  approximately  one  cubic  foot.  Four 
sacks  make  a  barrel.  Sacks  may  always  be  returned  to 
dealers  and  ten  cents  credit  obtained  for  each.  Cement 
must  not  be  allowed  to  get  wet,  or  even  damp,  as  mois- 
ture hardens  it  and  renders  it  unfit  for  use.  It  should 
be  stored  in  a  dry  place,  and  never  allowed  to  lie  on  the 
ground. 

94 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON  95 

CONCRETE  WORK 

Concrete  is  made  from  a  mixture  of  cement,  sand,  gravel 
and  water.  Great  care  must  be  taken  in  selecting  and  pre- 
paring this  mixture.  The  sand  must  be  sharp  and  free 
from  all  finer  particles.  If  it  contains  clay,  it  should  be 
washed  and  screened  until  only  the  coarse  sand  remains. 
Screening  is  very  important,  as  the  cement  will  then  stick 
to  the  sand  firmly  and  make  a  strong  mixture.  The  gravel 
also  should  be  coarse.  A  screen  with  a  one  fourth  inch 
sieve  is  generally  used  for  separating  the  sand  from  the 
gravel.  That  which  passes  through  is  sand  and  that  which 
does  not  pass,  is  gravel.  Gravel  with  a  diameter  of  more 
than  one  and  one  half  inches  should  not  be  used. 

Mixing  the  materials  is  a  very  important  part  of  the 
process.  A  common  mixture  is  that  known  as  the  1:2:4, 
meaning  one  part  by  volume  of  cement,  two  parts  of  sand 
and  four  parts  of  gravel.  Each  batch  of  concrete  should  be 
some  multiple  of  this  proportion.  Sand  and  gravel  must 
not  be  used  indiscriminately  as  taken  from  the  pit.  Crushed 
rock  is  still  better  than  screened  gravel  and  should  be  used 
where  it  can  be  obtained.  Care  must  be  used,  however, 
not  to  use  soft  rock  or  shale  that  will  be  affected  by  the 
weather,  as  concrete  can  be  no  stronger  than  its  weakest 
ingredient. 

The  cement  and  sand  should  first  be  thoroughly  mixed 
and  then  added  to  the  coarse  gravel  or  crushed  rock.  Mix 
all  carefully  before  adding  the  water.  Use  only  pure  water 
and  add  to  form  a  mortar  just  thin  enough  to  run  into  molds. 

Green  concrete  is  easily  cracked  and  must  be  protected 
while  curing.  The  quality  of  the  product  will  be  largely 
determined  by  the  way  it  is  cured.  During  the  first  two  or 
three  days,  concrete  must  be  kept  wet  and  covered  with 
burlap  or  some  other  suitable  material^  It  should  be 


96  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

sprinkled  for  several  days  and  should  not  be  used  for  a 
long  time. 

Uses  of  Concrete  on  the  Farm 

Walks.  Every  farm  home  should  have  some  concrete 
walks,  if  not  more  than  a  few  feet  leading  to  the  doors. 
Some  farmsteads  have  concrete  walks  leading  from  the 
house  to  the  barn  and  other  outbuildings.  Where  the  labor 
can  be  done  at  home  and  the  materials,  except  the  cement, 
obtained  on  the  farm,  the  cost  is  very  little. 

The  ground  should  be  excavated  to  a  depth  of  from 
eight  to  twelve  inches,  depending  upon  the  climate,  and  a 
subfoundation  of  stone,  gravel  or  cinders  laid.  The  soil 
should  be  well  packed  before  putting  in  the  subfoundation. 
The  latter  is  usually  from  four  to  six  inches  deep  and  should 
be  drained,  if  necessary,  to  prevent  water  from  standing  in 
it,  as  water  would  freeze  in  cold  weather  and  break  the 
walk  by  upheaval.  The  subfoundation  must  be  well  tamped 
before  laying  the  foundation. 

The  foundation  is  usually  three  or  four  inches  deep  and 
may  be  mixed  in  the  proportion  of  1:3:6,  if  coarse  sand  or 
crushed  rock  is  used.  The  concrete  should  be  laid  rather 
soft  so  that  when  it  is  being  packed  down,  moisture  may  be 
seen  on  the  top. 

A  top-dressing,  or  wearing  coat,  of  one  half  to  one  inch 
is  made  of  cement  mortar,  one  part  of  cement  to  two  parts 
of  sharp  sand  or  fine  screenings  of  crushed  rock  being  used. 
This  gives  a  smooth  and  hard  wearing  surface. 

The  walk  must  be  divided  into  sections  by  cutting  en- 
tirely through  with  a  trowel  or  other  sharp  instrument. 
These  sections  should  not  be  larger  than  eighteen  inches  or 
two  feet  square  to  prevent  cracking.  A  list  of  tools  needed 
and  specific  directions  for  constructing  the  walk  may  be 
obtained  from  any  bulletin  on  concrete. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON  97 

Basement  Floors.  A  concrete  basement  or  cellar  floor 
has  been  found  to  be  serviceable  and  economical.  This 
kind  of  floor  may  be  constructed  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
walks,  excepting,  perhaps,  that  greater  care  must  be  exerted 
to  secure  good  drainage  for  the  subfoundation.  Division 
into  small  sections  is  not  so  necessary,  four  being  sufficient 
for  an  average  room.  It  is  well  to  slope  the  floor  slightly 
toward  one  corner  and  drain  from  that  corner. 

Stable  Floors.  If  properly  constructed,  there  is  no  good 
reason  why  horse  stables,  as  well  as  cow  barns,  should  not 
have  concrete  floors,  which  are  economical  and  much  more 
sanitary  than  wooden  floors.  Since  a  greater  strength  is 
required  for  this  kind  of  floor,  the  foundation  should  be 
about  six  inches  thick.  A  one-inch  wearing  surface  will 
then  be 'sufficient.  Construct  the  same  as  for  walks.  A 
rough  finish  will  prevent  the  animals  from  slipping. 

Fence  Posts.  As  fence  posts  become  more  and  more 
expensive  there  is  an  increasing  demand  for  a  substitute  for 
the  wooden  post.  Concrete  posts  may  be  made  for  eighteen 
or  twenty  cents  each,  not  counting  the  labor,  and  if  properly 
constructed  will  last  indefinitely.  For  reinforcement,  wire 
or  small  steel  rods  may  be  used.  Sometimes  old  fence  wire 
may  be  utilized  with  little  or  no  extra  expense.  One  piece 
of  steel  or  wire  in  each  corner  of  the  post  about  an  inch 
from  the  surface  is  the  common  method  of  reinforcement. 

Molds  are  made  of  wood  in  any  desired  size  and  shape. 
A  tapering  post  is  cheaper  than  a  rectangular  one,  and  just 
as  useful  in  most  cases.  Posts  are  usually  molded  in  a 
horizontal  position,  as  that  method  is  simpler  than  the  verti- 
cal. The  molds  are  made  of  dressed  lumber,  preferably  one 
and  one  half  inches  thick.  From  one  to  a  dozen  molds 
may  be  used  at  the  same  time.  They  should  be  so  con- 
structed that  the  ends  may  be  let  down  and  the  boards 

7— 


98  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

between  the  posts  released  to  take  out  the  posts  when  dry 
enough.  A  bulletin  on  concrete  from  the  state  experiment 
station  will  give  complete  directions  for  making  the  molds, 
which  lack  of  space  prevents  giving  here. 

The  mixture  is  usually  of  a  1 :2}/£:5  proportion,  although 
1:2:4  and  1:3:6  mixtures  are  sometimes  used.  The  greatest 
possible  care  must  be  exerted  to  get  the  proper  grades  of 
sand  and  gravel,  as  a  small  amount  of  earth  or  clay  in  the 
sand  will  make  the  post  worthless.  The  concrete  is  run  into 
the  molds  and  smoothed  off  with  a  trowel.  The  posts  must 
be  handled  very  carefully  while  "green"  and  should  not  be 
used  for  about  three  months  after  making. 

Concrete  Blocks.  Concrete  or  "cement"  building  blocks 
are  now  quite  common.  Several  different  forms  are  made, 
but  most  of  them  are  of  hollow  construction,  not  only  to 
save  material  but  also  to  provide  a  "dead  air"  space  to 
make  the  temperature  in  the  building  more  equable.  These 
blocks  are  often  made  on  the  farm  from  homemade  molds 
the  desired  shape  and  size  for  foundations  and  small  build- 
ings. If  large  quantities  are  desired,  it  would  be  more 
economical  for  several  persons  to  co-operate  and  purchase 
a  machine  for  making  the  blocks.  See  a  bulletin  for  com- 
plete directions. 

Other  Uses.  Concrete  is  also  commonly  used  in  the 
construction  of  hog  troughs,  drinking  tanks,  cesspools,  cul- 
verts, etc.  To  construct  some  of  these  is  beyond  the  ability 
of  school  boys.  Hog  troughs  may  easily  be  made  of  a  1:2:4 
mixture  poured  into  a  homemade  form  the  desired  size  and 
shape.  The  common  V  shape  is  easily  made,  but  the  bot- 
tom should  be  slightly  rounded  so  that  no  food  will  remain 
and  sour. 

Boys  who  have  selected  some  of  the  concrete  work  for 
"home  credit"  tasks  have  been  delighted  with  what  they 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON  99 

have  learned  about  it.     Some  of  the  work  suggested  can  be 
done  at  school. 

WHITEWASHING 

Every  boy  should  know  how  to  make  and  use  whitewash. 
Outbuildings  of  all  kinds  can  be  kept  sweet  and  clean  by 
its  use.  Start  with  a  small  building,  such  as  a  chicken 
coop.  Better  results  are  obtained  by  using  a  brush  than 
by  a  spray,  although  it  requires  more  time.  After  the  first 
application  is  thoroughly  dry  a  second  may  be  put  on,  if 
desired. 

The  Government  whitewash  discussed  in  some  of  the 
Farmers'  Bulletins  is  the  best.  It  may  be  made  as  follows: 
Put  two  pecks  of  quicklime  in  a  boiler  or  washtub.  Cover 
the  lime  with  hot  water  and  put  a  lid  on  the  boiler.  Let 
stand  until  all  the  lime  is  slaked,  then  strain  it.  Dissolve 
one  peck  of  common  salt  in  hot  water  and  add  to  the  lime. 
Boil  about  three  pounds  of  rice  to  a  thin  paste  and  add  this 
to  the  mixture.  Dissolve  one  pound  of  glue  in  a  gallon  of 
warm  water.  Put  about  half  a  pound  of  powdered  Spanish 
whiting  into  the  glue,  and  mix  all  thoroughly  with  the  lime. 
Let  stand  a  few  days.  This  mixture  makes  a  much  more 
durable,  presentable  and  sanitary  whitewash  than  the  ordi- 
nary forms  and  it  is  inexpensive.  Reheat  before  using,  if 
possible.  For  use  in  damp,  interior  places,  omit  the  glue. 
Cow  barns  and  stables  may  be  much  improved  by  applying 
whitewash  at  least  once  a  year. 

IRON  WORK 

Care  of  Forge.  To  build  a  fire,  clean  out  the  little  pocket 
in  the  forge,  known  as  the  tweir.  Place  clean  shavings  in 
the  tweir,  putting  coke  over  the  shavings,  and  light  the 
fire,  giving  it  a  slow  draft.  After  the  coke  is  burning  put 


100 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


on  coal  until  the  fire  is  built  up  quite  high.  Bank  around 
with  wet  coal.  Use  the  best  "smithy"  coal  obtainable. 
Keep  the  fire  free  from  clinkers,  shaking  it  down  occasion- 
ally. Keep  the  clinker  trap  under  the  forge  clean. 

Methods  of  Heating.  Iron  can  be  heated  to  a  much 
greater  degree  without  burning  than  steel.  Steel  should 
never  be  heated  beyond  a  cherry  red  for  ordinary  work, 
such  as  drawing  out  or  punching.  Blacksmiths  speak  of 
heating  iron  to  a  red  heat,  white  heat  and  a  welding  heat. 
Beginners  should  use  the  red  heat  at  first  to  avoid  burning. 

Tools  for  Blacksmith  Shop 


1  Anvil,  75  or  100  pounds 

1   Blacksmith's  leg  vise 

1  Forge,  18  or  20-inch  hearth 

1   Stock  and  set  of  dies 

1   Cold  chisel 

1   Hardy 

1  Soldering  iron 


1  Straight  lip  tongs 

1  Bolt  t9ngs 

1  Tin  snips 

1  Ball-peen  hammer,  1-pound 

1  Cross-peen  hammer,  2-pound 

1   Blowtorch 


FORGING 
1 — Figure  8 

Material:  Mild  steel  or  wrought  iron,  % 
inch  round  by  8  inches  long. 

Tools  Used:    Hammer  and  tongs. 

Directions:  Heat  the  iron  to  required 
heat,  bending  it  over  horn  of  anvil.  As  this 
is  a  bending  exercise,  care  should  be  taken 
to  get  the  eyes  as  near  alike  as  possible. 


Figure  93. 
Figure  8  bending 
exercise  as  it  ap- 
pears when  fin- 
ished. 


2— Gate  Hook 

Material:     Mild  steel  or  wrought  iron,  % 
inch  round  by  3J/2  inches  long. 
Tools  Used:    Hammer  and  tongs. 

Directions:  Heat  iron  to  bright  red.  Draw  out  to  % 
inch  square,  as  shown.  Heat  one  end  about  1  inch,  placing 
edge  on  anvil  and  letting  it  extend  from  front  edge  of  anvil 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON  101 


on  the  face  about  %  inch. 
Then  hammer  down,  mak- 
ing a  shoulder.  Round 
this  end  out  to  J/g  inch. 
Bend  to  make  eye,  as 

Shown,    SO     that   it   fits   into       Figure  94.    Gate  hook.      A-Round  iron. 
,  B-A  drawn  out  square.  C-Finished  hook. 

shoulder.     Draw  out  other 

end  round  about  2  inches,  making  it  slightly  pointed.  Bend 
to  shape  over  horn  of  anvil.  Heat  center  of  hook.  Hold 
with  two  pairs  of  tongs,  one  on  each  side  and  about  1  inch 
apart.  Then  twist,  making  one  complete  turn.  Straighten 
hook,  using  mallet  and  block. 

3  —  Making  an  Angle 

p—  —  |     m         Material:    Mild  steel 

or  wrought   iron,   J/£  inch 
|  by  1/2  mch  by  7  inches. 

Tools  Used:     Hammer 
and  tongs. 

Directions:      Heat    the 
piece  in  the  center  about  1 


Figure  95.     Making  a  right  angle.     A-Iron      ir.pV.      Qrir]     nr»«ot      /ai+ViAY«    HAT- 
bar  after  heating  and  upsetting  for  bend-      mcn     anCl    uPset>    61tner     Dy 

placing   one  end  on   anvil 

and  hammering  down  on  the  other  end  or  butting  against 
anvil.  Then  reheat  in  center  and  bend  either  over  edge  of 
anvil  or  in  vise.  Then  square  up,  keeping  the  stock  to  the 
same  dimension. 

4—  Bent  Hook 

Material:  Mild  steel  or  wrought  iron,  %  inch  round 
and  7  inches  long. 

Tools  Used:     Hammer  and  tongs. 

Directions:  Draw  out  one  end  slightly  pointed,  as  in  A. 
Bend  the  eye  over  the  horn  of  anvil,  as  shown  in  B.  Bend 


102 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOTS 


hook  over  the  horn  of  the 
anvil,  care  being  taken  to 
have  the  eye  come  straight 
with  the  center  of  hook,  as 
shown  in  C. 

5— Lap  Weld 

This  weld  is  the  most 
used  and  it  is  also  the 
easiest  to  make  and  the 
strongest,  if  properly  done. 
The  first  thing  to  do  in  pre- 
paring this  weld  is  to  upset 
the  end,  which  can  be  done 
by  heating  a  short  distance 
back  from  the  end,  then 
placing  the  hot  end  on  the 

„,,.,-  .  Figure  96.    Bent  hook.     A-Iron  drawn  out 

anvil    While     hammering    On     and  pointed.      B-After  completing    the 
,,  .,  .  eye.     C-Completed  hook. 

the  other  end.     Then  scarf 

off  the  ends,  as  shown  in  the  drawings,  having  scarf  side 
slightly  convex.  Scarf  should  never  be  concave,  as  it  would 
form  a  pocket  for  scales,  cinders  and  gas,  making  a  poor 
weld.  In  welding,  bring  the  iron 
to  a  welding  or  fusing  heat,  or,  as 
some  blacksmiths  say,  until  it  starts 
to  flow.  Always  place  the  pieces  to 
be  welded  so  that  they  can  be  seen. 
One  cannot  weld  with  a  dirty  fire. 
Be  sure  that  there  are  no  clinkers  or  anything  else  to  clog  the 
fire.  Do  not  get  the  iron  too  near  the  tweir  or  too  close  to  the 
top,  as  the  cold  air  will  cause  scales  and  you  will  be  unable 
to  make  a  good  weld.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  iron  is 
not  burned,  a  good  weld  cannot  be  made  with  burned  iron. 


Figure  97.  Lap,  or  scarf,  weld 
A-Stock  upset  and  scarfed 
B-Top  view  of  A. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON  10i3 

If,  when  you  are  heating  for  a  weld,  you  see  sparks,  or,  as  some 
say,  diamonds,  going  out  of  your  fire,  you  will  know  that 
the  iron  is  burning.  The  best  thing  to  do  is  to  take  it  out 
and  cut  off  the  burned  part  and  scarf  it  over.  Welding  is 
one  of  the  most  difficult  things  to  learn  in  forging  and  it 
takes  a  great  deal  of  practice.  It  is  a  good  plan  for  beginners 
to  take  short  pieces,  as  shown  in  the  drawing,  and  practice 
until  they  can  make  a  good  weld.  If  care  is  taken  in  upset- 
ting and  scarfing,  the  stock  will  be  considerably  larger  at  the 
weld.  This  extra  thickness  you  can  forge  down  with  a 
hammer.  If  the  work  is  well  done,  it  will  be  impossible  to 
see  the  weld. 

6  —  Link,  Ring  and  Washer 

£~T~  -  *~J        Material:    Mild  steei  or 

wrought  iron,  ^  inch  round 
and  7  inches  long. 

Tools  Used:    Hammer 

ailC* 


Figure  98.    Link  exercise.    A-Stock  show- 

InfoTnk^yTo1  weld.  ^-Enl  S  Directions:        UPSet    both 

showing  scarfs  in  place. 


shape  of  a  U,  scarfing,  as  shown  in  the  drawing;  then  bend 
the  two  ends  so  that  the  scarfs  come  together,  as  shown; 
heat  to  welding  heat  and  weld  on  anvil.  In  making  chains, 
two  links  are  welded  separately  and  linked  to  the  third  and 
the  third  then  welded.  In  a  similar  manner  make  a  ring  and 
a  washer. 

7—  Fagot  Welded  Hook 

Material:  Mild  steel  or  wrought  iron,  J/s  inch  round  by 
8  inches  long. 

Tools  Used:     Hammer  and  tongs. 

Directions:  Bend  the  eye  in  the  center  of  the  stock,  as 
shown,  bringing  the  two  sides  together  and  keeping  them  at 


104 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  99.  Fagot  welded  hook. 
A-Stock  bent  into  shape  for 
welding.  B-Finished  hook. 


even  lengths.  Place  in  the  fire  and 
bring  to  welding  heat,  starting  the 
weld  at  the  eye  and  working  to  thd 
end.  Draw  out  the  stock  to  a  %- 
inch  diameter,  point  off  end,  as 
shown,  and  bend  over  the  horn  of 
anvil,  keeping  the  eye  and  the  cen- 
ter of  the  hook  on  a  line.  In  this 
way  a  very  strong  hook  is  made 
which  can  be  used  in  a  great  many 

places  where  the   bent  hook   would  not  stand.      This  is 

known  as  the  fagot  method  of  welding. 

8— Split  Forging    I 

To  make  a  hole  1  inch  round  in 
a  flat  bar  that  is  only  1  inch  wide, 
split  the  bar,  as  shown  in  A  of  the 
drawing,  and  punch  a  little  hole  at 
each  end  of  the  split  to  prevent 
further  splitting.  Then  drive  a 
punch  in  the  split  and  form  the 
hole  by  swelling  out  the  end  of 
the  bar.  This  is  one  form  of  split 
forging. 


Figure  100.  Split  forging  I. 
A-Stock  split  and  end  rounded. 
B-Completed  product  by  this 
method. 


Figure  101.  Split  Forging  II. 
A-Stock  laid. out.  B-Stock  cut 
out  and  worked  to  shape. 


9— Split  Forging  II 
This  is  another  kind  of  split 
forging  that  is  very  handy.  Cut 
out  shaded  parts,  as  shown  in  A 
of  the  drawing,  and  work  out  to 
shape,  as  shown  in  B.  A  great 
variety  of  shapes  can  be  made  by 
using  this  method  of  work. 


HOME  PROJECTS  IN  CEMENT  AND  IRON 


105 


Figure  102.  Split  Forging  in. 
s^ffoSngt 
toshape- 

round  the  ends  over  the 
edge  of  anvil;  punch  a  small 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  the 
jaw  and  cut  out,  as  indi- 
cated by  the  dotted  lines  in 
B;  then  finish  as  shown  in 
C.  Bend  the  other  end  in 
the  opposite  direction.  The 
two  jaws  should  be  of  dif- 
ferent sizes.  Do  not  harden. 


10  —  Split  Forging    III 

This  is  also  a  kind  of  split  forg- 
ing. If  a  -f-  shaped  piece  is  wanted, 
split,  as  shown,  and  work  out  to 
required  shape.  The  drawings  show 
what  is  meant  by  this  exercise. 

11—  S  Wrench 

The  S  wrench  is  a  form  of  split 
forging.  To  make  one,  tool  steel 
should  be  used  and  the  stock  must 
vary  to  comply  with  size  of  wrench 
wanted.  Place  the  bar  edgewise 
over  the  anvil  and  work  out  the 
shoulders;  next  draw  out  the  stock 
towards  the  center  as  shown  in  A; 


Figure  103.  S  Wrench.  A-Stock  with 
shoulders  worked  out.  B-Rounded,  holes 
punched,  ready  for  splitting.  C-Jaw 
worked  out  and  shaped. 


CHAPTER  VII 
HOME  CREDIT  WORK  IN  AGRICULTURE 

There  is  no  richer  field  for  the  application  of  scientific 
principles  than  that  of  the  home  project  work  in  agriculture. 
It  should  not  be  the  aim  of  any  school,  not  even  the  agri- 
cultural college,  to  turn  out  scientists  only.  Such  training 
is  useful  only  to  the  extent  that  it  can  be  made  practical. 
While  it  is  desirable  to  encourage  home  projects  in  general 
and  to  give  suitable  credit  in  school  for  such  work,  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  correlate  it  with  the  school  work  in 
agriculture,  if  definite  results  are  to  be  obtained.  It  is  not  so 
much  a  matter  of  the  leadership  of  the  school  as  it  is  of  intel- 
ligent co-operation  on  the  part  of  the  home  and  the  farm. 

If  there  is  a  farmers'  club  in  the  community,  that  is  the 
proper  organization  to  become  affiliated  with  the  school  for 
the  promotion  of  this  kinpl  of  work.  If  not,  the  school 
must  get  the  interest  of  the  farmers  of  the  district.  The 
home  exercises  given  in  this  chapter  should  be  discussed  in 
school,  but  carried  out  at  home.  These  projects  will  sug- 
gest others. 

SOIL  STUDY 

All  soils  have  been  formed  from  the  rock  of  the  earth's 
crust,  by  the  action  of  wind,  water,  heat  and  other  agencies. 
Gravel,  sand,  silt  and  clay  are  kinds  of  soil  classified  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  soil  particles.  Animal  and  vegetable 
decaying  matter  in  the  soil  is  called  humus.  Humus  con- 
tains much  plant  food.  Mineral  plant  food  is  "locked  up" 
in  the  soil.  Weathering  and  cultivation  make  this  food 
available  to  the  plant.  A  mixture  of  different  kinds  of  soils 

106 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  107 

is  called  a  loam.  If  a  soil  contains  more  sand  than  clay,  it 
is  a  sandy  loam.  If  more  clay  than  sand  is  present,  it  is  a 
clay  loam.  The  fertile  lands  in  the  great  corn  belt  are 
chiefly  silt  loams.  Soil  management,  and  consequently  to 
a  large  degree  farm  management,  must  depend  upon  the 
character  of  the  soil;  hence,  the  value  of  an  elementary 
study  of  soils. 

For  a  soil  tube,  make  a  box  two  inches  square  at  the 
ends,  inside  measurement,  and  four  feet  long.  Get  glass 
cut  to  fit  one  side  so  as  to  have  a  glass  front.  Fasten  the 
soil  tube  in  a  vertical  position  and  fill  it  with  soil  from  an 
average  farm  just  as  it  is  found  and  arranged  in  the  ground, 
the  subsoil  below  and  the  surface  soil  on  top.  The  tube 
can  be  filled  best  from  an  excavation  for  a  cellar  or  well, 
as  you.  can  then  see  each  layer  of  soil.  More  than  one 
sample  should  be  obtained,  if  the  soils  of  the  farms  in  the 
district  are  uneven.  In  case  it  is  not  possible  to  make  or 
procure  a  soil  tube  for  the  school,  bring  from  each  farm 
represented  samples  of  top  soil,  of  soil  six  inches  below  the 
surface,  and  one,  two,  three  and  four  feet  below  the  surface, 
and  study  these  in  class.  What  plants  send  roots  deeper 
than  four  feet?  What  has  the  subsoil  to  do  with  moisture? 
Why  are  sandy  soils  called  light  soils?  Weigh  equal  volumes 
of  sand,  loam  and  clay.  Which  is  the  heaviest?  Measure 
water  and  pour  it  into  the  different  kinds  of  soils  and  deter- 
mine which  will  hold  the  most  water.  What  kind  of  soil 
makes  the  best  subsoil?  Why?  Fill  five  lamp  chimneys 
partly  full  of  gravel,  sand,  loam,  clay  and  leaf  mold  respec- 
tively, tying  cloth  over  the  bottom  ends  and  submerging 
these  ends  about  an  inch.  Water  will  rise  by  capillary 
action.  In  which  does  it  rise  most?  Least?  Put  about  an 
inch  of  dust  on  the  top  of  the  loam  and  note  how  high  the 
moisture  rises.  How  does  the  result  show  the  value  of  a 


108  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

dust  mulch  in  cultivated  crops?  Your  school  can  make  a 
local  soil  survey  that  will  be  very  valuable  to  the  farmers 
of  the  community. 

MINIATURE  FARM 

Many  important  problems  in  farm  management  may  be 
shown  in  a  miniature  model  farm.  It  is  a  general  principle 
of  rotation  that  grass  should  follow  a  grain  crop,  and  a  cul- 
tivated crop  succeed  a  grass  crop.  In  a  simple  three-year 
rotation  these  crops  would  follow  in  order  every  three  years. 
In  a  four-year  plan  the  hay  land  would  be  pastured  the 
second  year,  before  plowing  up  the  sod  for  the  cultivated 
crop.  In  a  five-year  rotation  it  is  customary  to  have  two 
grain  crops  in  succession.  An  ideal  arrangement  is  to  divide 
the  farm  into  as  many  equal  fields  as  there  are  years  in  the 
system  of  rotation  adopted.  It  can  easily  be  shown  that 
the  shape  of  the  field  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  number 
of  rods  of  fence  per  acre  required  to  enclose  it.  Although 
long  fields  require  more  fencing,  they  are  more  economical 
in  plowing,  seeding  and  harvesting  than  square  fields.  The 
location  and  size  of  the  farmstead  is  an  important  item  in 
farm  management.  The  germination  of  seeds,  differences 
in  color  and  shape  of  the  blades  of  different  kinds  of  grain, 
rate  of  growth  of  each  during  twenty-four  hours,  the  root 
systems,  etc.,  are  worth  careful  observation.  All  these  and 
other  important  facts  may  be  studied  much  better  from  the 
miniature  farm  than  from  books.  A  few  weeks  before  school 
closes  in  the  spring  is  the  best  time  for  this  study.  The  facts 
can  be  observed  also  on  farms  in  the  vicinity  at  this  time. 

Make  a  box  three  feet  square  and  about  three  inches 
deep.  Fill  it  with  pulverized  soil  or  with  sawdust.  If  the 
latter  is  used,  soak  it  well  before  packing  it  firmly  into  the 
box.  In  some  ways  sawdust  is  the  better,  as  it  will  not  get 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE 


109 


JO  Acres  Grain 

1 

30  Acres  Grain 

is 

1 

SOAcres  Hay 

Minor 

/PrW,'*, 

| 

ou  Acres  Pasture 

III     B 

i.               FarmxfeaJ 

1      €3      ^ 

Figure  104.  Diagram  of  a  farm  showing  location  of  crops  for  one  year  in  a  five- 
year  rotation.  Farm  buildings  and  calf  and  hog  lots — the  minor  rotation 
plots — are  located  in  farmstead  of  ten  acres. 

hard,  and  it  retains  moisture  well.  As  the  seed  contains  all 
the  nourishment  needed  for  two  or  three  weeks'  growth,  it 
is  unnecessary  to  use  soil.  For  the  fence,  use  toothpicks  or 
splints  and  put  one  every  inch  around  the  outside  of  the 
"farm,"  allowing  them  to  stick  up  about  an  inch  above  the 
surface  of  the  sawdust.  Supposing  your  "farm"  represents 
160  acres  and  you  desire  a  five-year  rotation,  you  can  allow 
ten  acres  for  the  farmstead  and  thirty  acres  for  each  of  the 


110 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Suggestive  Rotations 

Three-Year  Plan 


Year 

Field  A 

Field  B 

Field  C 

1916 
1917 
1918 

Grain 
Clover 
Corn 

Clover 
Corn 
Grain 

Corn 
Grain 
Clover 

Four-Year  Plan 


Year 

Field  A 

Field  B 

Field  C 

Field  D 

1916 
1917 
1918 
1919 

Grain 
Meadow 
Pasture 
Corn 

Meadow 
Pasture 
Corn 
Grain 

Pasture 
Corn 
Grain 
Meadow 

Corn 
Grain 
Meadow 
Pasture 

Five- Year  Plan 


Year 

Field  A 

Field  B 

Field  C 

Field  D 

Field  E 

1916 
1917 
1918 
1919 
1920 

Grain 
Grain 
Meadow 
Pasture 
Corn 

Grain 
Meadow 
Pasture 
Corn 
Grain 

Meadow 
Pasture 
Corn 
Grain 
Grain 

Pasture 
Corn 
Grain 
Grain 
Meadow 

Corn 
Grain 
Grain 
Meadow 
Pasture 

five  fields.  To  fence  these,  mark  off  nine  inches  (represent- 
ing 40  rods)  from  the  east  line  on  the  south  side  and  place  a 
dot  on  the  edge  of  the  box.  Do  the  same  on  the  north  side, 
and  run  a  toothpick  fence  between  the  dots  parallel  to  the 
east  line.  Run  a  similar  fence  nine  inches  from  and  parallel 
to  the  south  line.  This  plan  will  make  a  square  ten-acre 
farmstead  in  the  southeast  corner  and  two  thirty-acre  fields, 
one  on  the  east  and  on  the  south.  Divide  the  remaining 
space  into  three  equal  fields,  and  you  will  have  the  ideal 
arrangement  for  a  five-year  rotation.  Build  a  toothpick 
fence  for  a  lane  from  the  farmstead  to  the  north  field  and 
your  fencing  will  be  complete.  The  accompanying  diagram 
shows  the  plan.  Sow  grain  in  the  two  fields  farthest  north, 
timothy  and  clover  in  the  two  fields  farthest  south  to  repre- 


HOME   CREDIT   WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  111 

sent  hay  in  one  and  pasture  in  the  other,  and  corn  in  the 
east  field.  This  arrangement  of  the  fields  will  represent  the 
farm  as  it  would  appear  one  year  in  five  after  the  rotation 
had  become  established.  In  actual  field  conditions,  of 
course,  the  timothy  and  clover  are  seeded  down  with  the 
preceding  grain  crop. 

Small  buildings  may  be  made  from  colored  paper  and 
located  on  the  farmstead.  With  toothpicks  lay  out  fields 
for  a  five-year  minor  rotation  plan  within  the  farmstead 
for  the  hog  and  calf  pastures. 

Plan  a  three  and  a  four-year  rotation  farm.  Bring  a 
plan  of  your  home  farm  and  see  if  you  can  improve  it  by  re- 
planning  and  establishing  a  system  of  rotation,  if  one  is  not 
already  used.  Try  a  model  farm  on  a  large  plot  at  home 
next  spring. 

GERMINATION  TESTS 

Students  should  become  thoroughly  familiar  with  the 
common  methods  of  seed  testing  for  grains  and  grasses. 
From  your  references,  find  out  how  to  use  the  "rag  doll"  for 
corn  testing,  the  "soup  plate"  and  other  methods  of  testing 
grass  and  small  grain  seed,  and  test  some  of  the  seed  to  be 
used  on  the  farm.  Seed  testing  is  good  agricultural  work  for 
February  and  March.  Make  a  seed  corn  tester  as  follows: 

Using  box  lumber  or  other  available  material,  make  a 
box  twenty  inches  long,  twenty  inches  wide  and  two  inches 
deep,  inside  measurements.  Mix  sawdust  with  water  until 
it  is  saturated  and  pack  it  firmly  into  the  box.  Cut  a  piece 
of  cotton  the  size  of  the  bottom  of  the  box  inside  and  mark 
it  off  into  two-inch  squares.  This  will  make  100  squares, 
affording  space  to  test  100  ears  at  once.  Place  the  cotton 
cloth  over  the  moist  sawdust  and  take  five  kernels  from  the 
middle  part  of  each  ear  and  put  them  in  the  squares.  Cover 


112 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


Figure  105. 


Seed  corn  tester,  show- 
ing squares. 


with  another  cloth  or  with  a  glass 
to  hold  the  moisture.  Keep  the 
tester  in  a  warm  room  of  even 
temperature.  Examine  every 
twenty-four  hours  for  five  days 
and  tabulate  the  results.  When 
do  the  kernels  begin  to  sprout? 
Does  the  root  or  top  shoot 
start  first?  Are  some  sprouts 
more  vigorous  than  others  and 
what  does  this  fact  show?  Dis- 
card all  the  ears  that  do  not 
show  100%  of  strong  germination,  as  only  the  latter  kind  of 
seed  should  be  saved  for  planting. 

GARDEN  WORK 

Select  a  rich  piece  of  soil,  well  drained  and  free  from 
weeds.  The  size  will  depend  upon  circumstances  and  may 
vary  from  a  few  square  feet  for  the  youngest  boys  and  girls 
to  a  large  tract  for  a  commercial  garden  for  the  older  ones. 
About  thirty  feet  is  a  good  length  for  a  row  but  the  garden 
may  be  as  long  or  as  wide  as  desired.  The  garden  should 
be  plowed  early  enough  in  the  fall  to  check  the  growth  of 
weeds  and  to  bring  buried  weed  seeds  to  the  surface  where 
they  will  germinate  and  be  killed"  by  frost.  Fall  plowing 
also  disturbs  the  eggs  or  pupae  of  various  kinds  of  insects 
and  many  of  them  are  destroyed.  A  heavy  coat  of  well 
rotted  barnyard  manure  should  be  plowed  under,  and  the 
soil  harrowed  a  few  times  to  conserve  the  moisture.  As 
soon  as  it  is  dry  in  the  spring,  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly 
pulverized  with  a  disk  and  harrowed  until  fine.  Do  as  much 
of  the  labor  with  horses  as  possible. 

The  garden  should  be  planned  during  the  winter  and  the 
seeds  purchased  in  tune  to  test  them.  Better  still,  save 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  113 

some  of  your  own  seed.  The  students  of  a  school  might  well 
plan  their  gardens  together  as  part  of  their  agricultural 
work,  exchanging  varieties  of  home  grown  seed  and  thus 
saving  the  expense  of  purchasing.  The  testing  should  be 
done  at  school  a  few  weeks  before  the  seed  is  needed.  Plats 
of  each  garden  may  be  planned  and  drawn,  and  approved 
by  parents  and  teacher.  The  plat  should  be  drawn  to  scale 
and  show  what  the  garden  is  to  contain  and  where  each 
kind  of  seed  is  to  be  planted.  Then  follow  the  working 
drawing  when  the  garden  is  being  planted.  Copies  of 
the  plat  should  be  preserved  at  school  and  at  home  for 
reference. 

A  few  principles  of  gardening  should  be  kept  in  mind. 
Plant  the  smallest  vegetables,  such  as  onions,  carrots,  beets, 
etc.,  in  a  part  of  the  garden  by  themselves  in  rows  about 
sixteen  inches  apart.  The  larger  things,  as  corn  and  pota- 
toes, should  be  far  enough  apart  to  use  a  horse  cultivator, 
unless  the  garden  is  very  small.  Space  should  be  left  and 
kept  cultivated  for  plants  that  are  to  be  transplanted,  such 
as  cabbage,  tomatoes,  cauliflower,  celery,  etc.  These  should 
be  started  early  in  window  boxes.  If  done  at  school,  one 
box  of  each  variety  will  be  sufficient  for  the  entire  school. 
The  school  should  have  a  hotbed  made  and  cared  for  by  the 
students.  Borrow  the  storm  sashes  from  the  home,  if  neces- 
sary. In  case  the  garden  soil  is  dry  when  the  seed  is  planted, 
it  should  be  packed  and  made  firm  over  the  row.  This 
packing  will  enable  capillary  action  to  bring  the  soil  water 
to  the  surface.  A  dust  mulch  between  the  rows  while  the 
plants  are  growing  will  conserve  the  moisture.  Do  not  al- 
low weeds  in  your  garden.  A  weed  is  "any  plant  out  of 
place."  Get  some  bulletins  on  gardening,  keep  records  of 
your  receipts  and  expenditures  and  exhibit  your  products 
at  the  school  in  the  fall. 


114  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

WEED  COLLECTION 

Weeds  do  millions  of  dollars'  worth  of  damage  annually,, 
a  large  part  of  which  could  be  saved,  if  the  boys  and  girls 
learned  to  identify  them  in  school  and  later  practiced  the 
proper  methods  of  eradication  on  the  farm.  All  weeds  come 
under  three  general  classes — annual,  those  that  produce  seed 
and  die  during  one  season;  biennial,  those  that  grow  to 
maturity,  produce  seed  and  die  the  second  season;  and 
perennial,  those  that  live  on  year  after  year  and  produce 
seed  annually.  Examples  of  annual  weeds  are  pigeon  grass, 
mustard,  wild  oat  and  Russian  thistle;  biennials  are  repre- 
sented by  burdock  and  bull  thistle;  and  some  of  the  worst 
perennials  are  Canada  thistle,  quack  grass,  dandelion  and 
yellow  dock.  Perennial  weeds  are  particularly  obnoxious, 
because  many  of  them  produce  new  plants  from  the  roots 
as  well  as  from  the  seed.  Methods  of  eradication,  or  ways 
of  getting  rid  of  weeds,  depend  upon  the  class  to  which  they 
belong.  Annuals  and  biennials  must  be  prevented  from 
seeding,  but  prevention  of  seeding  is  not  sufficient  for  the 
perennials,  and  some  way  of  pulling  or  killing  the  roots  must 
be  devised.  Rotation  of  crops  is  the  best  general  method 
of  destroying  and  preventing  weeds,  but  spraying,  smother- 
ing, pulling  by  hand  and  other  methods  are  employed.  Study 
bulletins  and  other  references  on  weeds  for  further  infor- 
mation. 

Make  a  herbarium.  Use  oak  tag  or  other  stiff  paper  and 
allow  a  page  each,  of  about  ten  by  fifteen  inches,  for  about 
twenty-five  weeds.  With  the  aid  of  the  references,  the 
teacher  and  the  farmers  in  the  community,  collect  twenty- 
five  of  the  worst  weeds  in  your  school  district.  Press  them 
and  mount  in  your  herbarium.  If  possible,  get  leaves,  flower 
or  seed  and  a  thin  section  of  the  root.  Write  a  description 
of  the  weed,  give  the  class  to  which  it  belongs  and  state  how 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  115 

best  to  get  rid  of  it.  Make  a  case  for  a  permanent  exhibit 
for  the  schoolhouse  as  class  work.  Get  twenty-five  small 
"pill"  bottles  about  two  inches  long  at  the  drug  store  and 
after  thoroughly  drying  the  seed,  fill  each  bottle  with  one 
kind  of  weed  seed.  Label  each  bottle  and  make  a  thin 
wooden  case  to  hold  the  collection.  Collecting  weeds  may 
be  made  an  individual  exercise  as  well  as  the  basis  for  a 
general  school  collection.  It  is  interesting  to  note  the  differ- 
ent kinds  of  seed  dispersal,  such  as  wind,  water,  animals,  etc., 
and  to  classify  a  collection  on  this  basis.  After  becoming 
familiar  with  the  weed  seeds,  test  samples  of  grains  and  grass 
seed  for  purity  as  part  of  your  agricultural  work.  Use 
Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  428  and  others  from  your  own  state 
for  this  work. 

INSECT  COLLECTION 

Insects  probably  do  more  damage  to  the  crops  of  the 
United  States  than  weeds.  Not  all,  however,  are  injurious. 
Some  are  very  beneficial  in  destroying  injurious  insects. 


Figure  106.     Hessian  fly,  showing  larva,  pupa  and  adult,  or  fly;  greatly  enlarged. 


116 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  B07S 


Figure  107.     Typical  beetle,  the  asparagus  beetle,    showing     (a)    adult,    (b)    egg, 
(c)  young  larva,  (d)  full  grown  larva,  (e)  pupa;  enlarged.      (Chittenden.) 

Students  should  study  each  class  of  insects  and  learn  how  to 
exterminate  the  injurious  kinds.  These  may  be  divided  into 
biting  insects  and  sucking  insects.  Biting  insects  can  be 
poisoned.  Sucking  insects  get  their  food  from  the  juices  of 
the  plants  and  can  be  killed  by  stopping  up  their  pores,  or 
breathing  spaces.  An  insect  breathes  through  openings  in 
the  sides  of  the  abdomen,  and  hence  cannot  be  drowned  by 

putting  its  head  under 
water.  A  soap  or  kero- 
sene emulsion  is  used  as 
a  spray  to  close  the 
breathing  pores.  In 
general,  the  half-winged 
bugs  are  the  sucking 
insects  and  the  sheath- 
winged  beetles  are  biting 
insects.  The  larvae,  or 
"worms,"  of  other  insects, 
such  as  butterflies  and 

Figure  108,    Typical  moth,  the  zebra  cater-       ^ntha     ___    nf+pn    vprv 

pillar  and  moth.    (Riiey.)  motns,  are  oiten  very 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  117 

injurious.  Some  of  these  "baby"  insects  should  be  collected 
and  a  breeding  cage  made  from  a  small  wooden  box  with 
wire  sides.  Place  soil  in  the  bottom  and  keep  it  moist. 
Cocoons  should  be  gathered  in  the  fall  and  kept  in  a  warm 
place.  In  this  way  the  life  history  of  insects  may  be  studied 
at  first  hand.  The  information  gained  should  be  of  great 
value  later. 

A  collection  of  adult  insects  should  be  made  for  the 
school  by  the  students,  and  home  credit  given  for  individual 
collections.  Make  a  box  the  desired  size,  for  example,  six- 
teen by  twenty-four  inches,  and  have  a  glass  cover  to  pre- 
vent moths  from  destroying  the  mounted  specimens. 

COLLECTION  OF  WOODS 

Make  a  panel  of  thin  wood  and  mount  on  it  the  different 
kinds  of  wood  found  in  the  district.  There  should  be  cross 
and  longitudinal  sections  of  each  kind.  The  cross-section 
is  made  by  sawing  off  a  block  from  a  small  tree  or  bush, 
making  it  one  half  inch  thick.  It  should  show  the  bark  and 
rings  of  growth.  The  longitudinal  section  is  made  by  split- 
ting a  block  about  four  inches  long  and  planing  one  surface 
smooth  to  show  the  grain  of  the  wood.  The  sections  should 
be  made  as  nearly  uniform  in  size  as  possible.  This  exercise 
is  a  valuable  one,  as  the  average  person  is  unfamiliar  with 
many  of  the  common  kinds  of  woods. 

STUDY  OF  BIRDS  AND  RODENTS 

One  of  the  most  interesting  projects  for  which  home 
credit  should  be  given  is  a  study  of  the  common  birds. 
This,  being  outdoor  work,  affords  abundance  of  healthful 
exercise.  A  notebook  should  be  a  constant  companion  and, 
with  a  kodak,  the  field  work  is  still  more  interesting.  Notes 
should  be  written  in  permanent  form  into  a  "Birds  That  I 
Know"  booklet. 


118  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

Birds  are  classified  as  land,  water,  game  and  birds  of 
prey.  Some  go  south  for  the  winter;  others  do  not.  Make 
a  table  of  these  migrations  with  dates  in  the  spring  and  fall. 
Some  birds  are  injurious,  destroying  grains,  fruits,  beneficial 
animals  and  other  birds.  Common  ones  are  the  English 
sparrow,  the  kingfisher  and  the  crow.  These  should  be 
destroyed.  Other  birds  are  highly  beneficial  and  should  be 
protected.  Still  others  are  prized  for  their  songs  and  plum- 
age. Some  of  the  beneficial  birds  are  as  follows:  Robin, 
house  wren,  song  sparrow,  orchard  oriole,  bank  swallow, 

barn  swallow,  blue  jay,  car- 
dinal, red- winged  blackbird, 
red-headed  woodpecker,  kill- 
deer,  quail,  dove,  screech  owl, 
barn  owl,  buzzard,  humming 
bird,  cowbird  and  meadow 
lark.  Nearly  all  these,  as  well 
as  many  others,  can  be  observed 
Figure  109.  Baltimore  oriole.  and  studied  in  your  commun- 

ity.     Birds  feed   chiefly  upon 

insects  and  other  injurious  pests  and  hence  should  be  pro- 
tected. State  and  national  laws  protect  most  of  these  birds, 
but  you  can  help  also.  Bird  houses  to  protect  from  cold 
and  wet,  crumbs  thrown  out  when  snow  is  on  the  ground 
and  watching  that  cats  and  other  animals  do  not  molest  the 
young  birds  just  from  the  nest  are  some  of  the  ways. 

While  most  birds  are  friends  and  should  be  protected, 
the  rodents,  or  gnawing  animals,  are  serious  pests  and  should 
be  exterminated.  Their  sharp,  chisel-like  teeth  enable  them 
to  do  much  damage  in  orchard,  garden  and  field. 

The  common  gray  rabbit,  or  cotton-tail,  by  gnawing  the 
bark  and  biting  the  shoots  of  fruit  trees  and  shrubbery, 
probably  does  more  damage  in  the  winter  than  in  summer. 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  119 

As  their  natural  enemies  hawks,  owls,  foxes,  wolves,  etc., 
become  fewer,  the  rabbits  must  be  more  carefully  guarded 
against.  Trees  and  shrubs  should  be  protected  by  guards 
of  burlap,  heavy  paper,  etc.,  or  by  repellent  washes,  such  as 
lime-sulphur  solution.  Rabbits  may  be  poisoned  by  soak- 
ing the  buds  of  young  shoots  in  strychnine.  Poisoned  fruits 
and  vegetables  may  also  be  used.  Traps  will  help. 

Gophers  do  much  damage  in  gardens  and  grain  fields.  The 
mounds  show  the  presence  of  pocket  gophers.  The  striped 
gopher  eats  insects  as  well  as  vegetable  food  and  is,  to  that 
extent,  beneficial.  Gophers  may  be  trapped  or  poisoned. 

Field  mice  do  great  damage  to  grain  and  other  crops. 
Much  of  the  inj  uries  to  orchard  trees  in  winter  can  be  traced 
to  those  animals.  Since  several  litters  are  produced  during 
the  season,  they  soon  become  very  numerous,  unless  war  is 
declared.  Mice,  as  well  as  rats,  may  be  poisoned  or  trapped. 

Moles  feed  largely  on  insects,  but  frequently  become  a 
garden  pest  on  account  of  the  burrows  and  mounds.  They 
may  be  trapped  or  poisoned. 

Woodchucks,  or  ground  hogs,  should  be  trapped  or  pois- 
oned where  they  become  pests.  Most  boys  know  how  to 
use  the  trap  effectively. 

STUDY  OF  MACHINERY 

The  parts  of  some  of  the  common  kinds  of  farm  machin- 
ery can  be  obtained  for  class  work,  and  probably  some  worn- 
out  machines  can  be  secured  for  permanent  use.  What 
cannot  be  studied  in  school  can  be  done  on  a  nearby  farm  by 
the  class  or  as  individual  work  at  home.  Among  the  imple- 
ments that  should.be  studied,  and  all  the  important  parts 
named,  are  the  following:  Wagon,  buggy,  manure  spreader, 
harrow,  disk,  cultivator,  plow,  drill,  mower,  rake  and  grain 
harvester.  From  implement  dealers  secure  catalogs  and 


120  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

repair  lists  for  the  machinery  that  is  to  be  studied.  Name 
all  the  important  parts.  After  becoming  familiar  with  the 
parts,  take  some  machine  apart,  as  a  mower  or  a  binder,  and 
reassemble  it.  Some  old  machines  should  be  kept  in  a  shed  at 
the  school  for  this  work.  The  tools  needed  are  a  few  wrenches, 
a  hammer,  cold  chisel,  punch,  screw  driver  and  pliers. 

The  parts  for  two  common  implements  are  here  named. 
The  common  walking  plow:  Handles,  beam,  clevis,  frog, 
heel,  landside,  wing,  point,  share,  shin  and  moldboard.  The 
grain  binder:  •  Bull  wheel,  grain  wheel,  axle,  drive  chain, 
crank  shaft,  countershaft,  pitman,  cutter  bar,  sickle,  sec- 
tion, clips,  dividers,  platform  canvas,  elevator,  reel,  binder 
attachment,  needle,  packers,  knotter,  butter,  twine  box, 
tension,  bundle  carrier,  levers,  tongue  and  neck  yoke.  The 
parts  for  other  machines  may  be  learned  from  the  lists  of 
extras  already  suggested. 

STOCK  AND  GRAIN  JUDGING 

Secure  score  cards  free  of  charge  from  your  experiment 
station  and  follow  the  directions  there  given  for  judging 
live  stock.  It  is  usually  possible  to  get  some  stockman  in 
the  district  to  bring  animals  to  the  school  for  demonstration 
lessons  in  judging.  This  work  should  be  supplemented  by 
excursions  to  farms  where  well  bred  stock  may  be  studied. 
Each  student  should  fill  out  a  score  card  for  the  most  com- 
mon breeds  of  cattle,  horses,  hogs,  sheep  and  poultry  found 
in  the  district.  If  judging  is  not  done  at  school,  home  credit 
should  be  given  to  students  who  do  the  work  elsewhere. 
Score  cards  for  grains  may  be  obtained  and  judging  done  in 
a  similar  manner. 

APPLE  TREE  GRAFTING 

Save  some  apple  seeds  at  home  and  in  the  fall  plant  them 
a  few  inches  apart  and  about  two  inches  deep  in  rows.  The 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  121 

seedlings  from  these  will  grow  during  the  next  season  and 
be  ready  to  graft  the  following  winter.  Get  scions  from  the 
last  season's  growth  of  the  variety  you  desire  to  have  the 
tree.  Cut  off  the  top  of  the  seedlings  near  the  ground  and 
graft  the  scions  into  them.  In  larger  nurseries,  the  seedlings 
are  dug  in  fall,  stored  and  grafted  indoors  in  winter,  only 
pieces  of  roots  being  used.  Get  a  bulletin  on  grafting  and 
learn  how  to  make  grafting  wax  and  how  to  cut  and  place 
the  scion  and  the  stock  so  that  the  growing  layer  of  the  one 
will  come  in  contact  with  the  growing  layer  of  the  other 
— the  most  important  factor  in  grafting.  The  wax  is  to 
bind  the  wound  made  in  the  operation  of  grafting  and  pro- 
tect it  from  disease.  Apple  seeds  do  not  reproduce  the  same 
variety  of  apple  tree  as  that  on  which  they  were  grown,  but 
any  kind  of  apple  seed  may  be  used  for  growing  the  stock. 
Sometimes  wild  seedlings  are  used  for  the  stock,  as  the  tree 
will  then  be  hardy  and  any  variety  can  be  grafted  on  it. 
Old  trees  are  often  " top- worked" ;  that  is,  limbs  are  cut  off 
and  other  varieties  are  grafted  on.  In  this  way,  several 
varieties  may  be  grown  on  one  tree.  Grafting  is  an  interest- 
ing and  useful  art  and  one  easily  acquired  by  practice. 

STRAWBERRY  RAISING 

This  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  of  the  fruit  projects.  The 
strawberry  is  a  universal  favorite  and  can  be  grown  in  every 
country.  Most  varieties  originated  from  a  South  American 
species,  and  a  few  from  the  wild  strawberry  of  the  United 
States.  The  plant  thrives  best  in  a  rich,  warm,  sandy  loam. 
A  northern  slope  is  best,  as  it  retards  the  bloom  in  spring 
where  there  is  danger  of  frost.  The  plot  of  ground  should 
be  heavily  fertilized  and  plowed  in  the  fall.  It  should  be 
disked  and  thoroughly  worked  in  the  spring,  making  the 
soil  loose  on  top  and  compact  below.  For  northern  climates 


122  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

spring  planting  is  best,  cultivating  during  the  summer  and 
allowing  the  runners  to  set  during  the  fall  before  the  cold 
weather.  Fall  planting  is  the  usual  method  in  the  South 
where  a  crop  is  picked  the  next  winter.  One-year-old  plants 
with  white,  fibrous  roots  are  used  for  spring  planting,  and 
spring  plants  are  used  when  they  are  planted  in  the  fall. 
Old  plants  have  dark  roots  and  must  be  avoided  for  new 
beds.  The  plants  should  be  set  as  soon  as  possible  after 
they  are  taken  from  the  ground.  To  prevent  the  roots  from 
drying  out  they  are  often  packed  in  a  furrow.  This  operation 
is  called  "heeling-in."  If  but  a  small  bed  is  set  out,  the 
plants  are  best  in  hills  where  they  can  be  hoed  on  all  sides, 
but  the  matted  rows  should  be  used  for  larger  patches  so 
that  they  can  be  kept  clean  with  horse  cultivators.  The 
runners  should  be  trained  with  the  rows  so  that  dust  and 
straw  mulches  may  be  kept  between  the  rows.  The  latter 
is  applied  first  as  a  winter  protection  for  the  plants  and  is 
removed  in  spring  after  all  danger  of  frost  is  past. 

Diseases  and  insects  that  attack  the  plants  and  berries 
should  be  carefully  studied  and  remedied.  Rust  on  the 
leaves  should  be  treated  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  On  large 
fields,  the  leaves  often  are  mowed  and  burned.  Leaf  roller  may 
be  destroyed  by  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead.  The  best 
preventive  of  cutworms  and  white  grubs  is  not  to  plant  on 
sod.  Cutworms  may  be  killed  by  "planting"  poisoned  bait, 
but  great  care  must  be  exerted  to  prevent  chickens  or  ani- 
mals from  getting  it.  White  grubs  cannot  be  reached  by 
poisoning.  When  lack  of  vigor  in  plants  indicates  their 
presence,  dig  out  and  kill. 

The  berries  may  be  marketed  fresh  or  canned,  as  may 
be  more  profitable  in  your  community.  Pint  and  quart 
boxes  as  well  as  the  crates,  for  the  fresh  fruit,  may  be 
obtained  in  the  '  'knock-down"  and  considerable  saved,  if 


HOME   CREDIT  WORK  IN   AGRICULTURE  123 

you  put  them  together  yourself.  Berries  to  be  shipped  should 
be  picked  slightly  greener  than  those  for  canning.  They 
should  be  sorted  before  boxing  and  only  sound  plump  berries 
put  into  the  crates.  For  information  on  canning  straw- 
berries, see  description  of  outfit  and  method  given  in 
"Canning  as  Club  Work,"  Chapter  VIII. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
'  CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 

Garden  and  canning  clubs  have  been  organized  in  nearly 
every  state  in  the  Union.  The  Federal  Government  has  as- 
sisted the  movement  by  sending  experts  to  various  parts  of 
the  country,  and  state  departments  of  agriculture  have  co- 
operated through  their  extension  work.  Mr.  T.  A.  Erickson, 
state  leader  of  boys'  and  girls'  club  work  for  Minnesota, 
gives  five  reasons  why  every  school  district  should  have  one 
or  more  of  these  clubs.  They  are  well  worth  considering. 

1.  To  bring  the  school,  home  and  farm  into  closer  co- 
operation. 

2.  To  encourage  boys  and  girls  to  assist  their  mothers 
in  having  a  good  supply  of  vegetables  and  fruit  for  the  table, 
thus  helping  to  reduce  the  cost  of  living,  and  to  teach  boys 
and  girls  how  to  save  what  is  often  otherwise  wasted. 

3.  To  interest  the  boys  and  girls  in  gardening  and  in  the 
best  methods  of  growing  the  tomato  an.d  other  standard 
vegetables. 

4.  To  teach  the  best  methods  of  canning  what  is  not 
used  fresh. 

5.  To  provide  a  means  by  which  boys  and  girls  may 
earn  some  money  and  at  the  same  time  learn  many  valuable 
lessons. 

There  are  many  fruits  and  vegetables  that  may  be  grown 
profitably  by  school  boys  in  their  home  gardens.  Tomatoes 
and  strawberries  are  probably  the  most  profitable,  as  there 
is  always  a  ready  market  for  these,  and  the  surplus  is  easily 
canned.  In  fact,  the  tomato  is  popular  on  account  of  the 
canning  that  goes  with  that  club  work,  as  most  of  the  prod- 

124 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK  125 

uct  is  sold  as  canned  goods.  Many  boys  have  entered  the 
acre  corn  contests,  and  for  that  reason  directions  are  given 
for  doing  that  kind  of  club  work.  Sweet  corn  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  field  corn,  if  preferred  and  part  of  the  crop 
canned  in  the  same  manner  as  the  tomatoes.  In  that  case 
a  full  acre  would  not  be  required  unless  three  or  four  boys 
formed  a  partnership  and  purchased  a  home  canning  outfit 
together.  Garden  peas  have  been  grown  and  canned  suc- 
cessfully by  some  of  the  clubs. 

Insects  and  weeds  are  deadly  enemies  of  garden,  field 
and  orchard,  and  must  be  constantly  guarded  against.  Poor 
seed  is  also  often  responsible  for  small  yields.  It  is  necessary, 
therefore,  that  boys  make  a  careful  study  of  these  pests  and 
also  learn  how  to  test  seeds  for  purity  and  germination,  if 
they  are  to  get  the  best  results.  Hence,  these  subjects  are 
given  as  much  consideration  as  space  will  permit.  Consult 
bulletins  and  reference  books  for  further  information. 

ACRE-YIELD  CORN  PLOT 

If  there  is  no  acre-yield  corn  contest  in  your  district, 
start  one  by  growing  an  acre  of  corn  yourself  and  getting  as 
many  of  the  other  boys  and  girls  of  your  school  to  enter  as 
you  can.  Then  affiliate  with  the  extension  division  of  your 
state  experiment  station. 

Select  an  acre  from  rich  clover  sod,  if  available,  and,  after 
applying  a  heavy  coat  of  well  rotted  manure,  plow  it  about 
six  inches  deep  as  early  in  the  fall  as  possible.  Disk  and 
harrow  often  enough  to  kill  the  weeds  during  the  fall  and 
to  conserve  the  moisture.  Continue  this  harrowing  in  the 
spring  several  times  before  planting.  As  soon  as  danger  of 
frost  is  past,  plant  only  pure,  ear-tested  corn  of  the  variety 
desired.  Plant  thick  enough  so  that  the  plants  can  be 
thinned  to  four  healthy  stalks  in  a  hill.  Cultivate  as  often 


126 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


as  possible  during  the  growing  season,  especially  after  each 
rain.  Be  careful  to  do  shallow  cultivation  after  the  first 
few  times,  or  the  roots  will  be  cut  and  the  plants  injured. 
Check-row  the  corn  land  three  feet  six  inches  each  way. 
Get  directions  from  your  state  experiment  station  or  county 
agent  for  husking  and  weighing  the  yield,  and  enter  the  state 
contest,  if  there  is  one.  It  is  always  advisable  to  compete 
whether  you  secure  any  prizes  or  not,  as  you  will  learn  the 
best  methods  of  corn  culture  for  your  locality.  There  are 
almost  unlimited  possibilities  in  corn  growing.  You  will  not 
find  it  difficult  to  grow  more  to  the  acre  than  is  grown  by 
most  of  the  farmers  in  your  community.  Try  it,  as  hundreds 
of  other  boys  have  done.  Keep  careful  records  and  find 
the  profit  as  well  as  the  cost  of  production. 

POTATO  YIELD  CONTEST 

If  an  acre  is  too  much  for  a  potato  yield  contest,  try  a  half 
or  a  fourth  of  an  acre.  Prepare  the  ground  in  the  same 
manner  as  suggested  for  the  corn.  Select  large,  pure  seed 
of  the  desired  variety,  and  if  a  planter  is  not  available  use 
great  care  in  planting  by  hand.  Study  bulletins  for  infor- 
mation on  potato  culture.  Keep  records  of  the  receipts  and 
expenditures  and  ascertain  the  cost  of  production.  Show  a 
sample  at  the  school  exhibition  in  the  fall.  The  following 
score  card  is  adapted  from  one  issued  by  the  extension 
division  of  the  Minnesota  College  of  Agriculture: 
Score  Card  for  Potatoes. 

I.     YIELD— 25  POINTS. 


No.  of 
Points 

Things  to  Consider 

Value  of 
Points 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 

Size  of  tubers 

10 

2 

Number  in  a  hill 

10 

3 

Compactness  in  the  hill 

5 



Total  score 

25 

CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 


127 


EXPLANATION  OF  POINTS. 

I.     Yield:     Can  the  sample  be  relied  upon  to  produce  a  large  yield  even  in  spite 
of  unfavorable  conditi9ns? 

1.  Size  of  Tubers. — Individual    potatoes    should    be    fairly    large,    indicating 
strength   and   constitution. 

2.  Number  in  a  Hill. — Hills  with  only  a  few  good-sized  potatoes  are  undesirable, 
also  hills  with  a  large  number  of  under-sized  potatoes. 

3.  Compactness   in   the   Hill. — Potatoes   should   be   compact   enough   to  gather 
easily  and  spread  enough  not  to  push  out  of  the  ground. 

II.     SALABILITY— 25  POINTS. 


No.  of 
Points 

Things  to  Consider 

Value  of 
.  Points 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 

Soundness 

10 





2 

Size 

5 



3 

Shape 

5 

— 

4 

Skin 

5 

Total  score 

25 

EXPLANATION  OF  POINTS. 

II.     Salability:     Are  they  what  the    market    demands?     Are  they  attractive  in 
appearance?     Will  they  bring  a  good  price? 

1.  Soundness. — Potatoes  should  be   free   from   scab,  rot,  sunburn  and  bruises: 
also  from  damage  due  to  bad  handling.     They  should  not  be  hollow. 

2.  Size. — Potatoes  should  be  large  and  of  uniform  size. 

3.  Shape. — Tubers  should  be  similar  in  shape  and  free  from  deformities  and 
irregularities. 

4.  Skin. — Skin  should  be  firm,  clean,  bright  and  clear;  uniform  in  color;  a  white 
skin,  other  things  being  equal,  is  preferable. 

HI.     CULINARY  VALUE— 25  POINTS. 


No.  of 
Points 

Things  to  Consider 

Value  of 
Points 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 

Mealiness  when  boiled  and  baked 

5 

2 

Color  when  cooked 

5 



3 

Evenness  in  cooking 

5 







4 

Flavor 

5 



5 

Eyes 

5 

Total  score 

25 

EXPLANATION  OF  POINTS. 

III.     Culinary  Value: 

1.  Mealiness,  when  Boiled  and  Baked. — Potatoes  that   are   immature',  Jafge 
and  coarse,  or  with  a  thin,  papery  skin,  and  also  those  grown  in  heavy,  wet  clay 
soils,   are  liable  to  be  soggy. 

2.  Color  when  Cooked. — Potatoes  should  have  uniform,  white  color  through- 
out and  should  not  turn  yellow  or  dark  upon  standing.     They  should  be  free  from 
brown  or  blackish  spots,  and  from  dark  or  reddish  streaks,  especially  near  the 
stem  and  under  the  eyes. 


128 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


3.  Evenness  in  Cooking.  —  The   different   potatoes   and   parts   of  each   potato 
should  cook  quickly  and  uniformly.     Potatoes  which  are  hard  and  watery  when 
cooked,  or  those  having  hard,  watery  spots  or  with  a  tendency  to  be  yellow,  will 
cook  unevenly. 

4.  Flavor. — Potatoes  should  have  a  sweet,  pleasing  taste.     Sunburned,  sprouted 
immature  potatoes,  or  those  which  have  been  exposed  to  light,  will  have  a  bad  flr  yor. 

5.  Eyes. — Deep  or  sunken  eyes,  and  those  protruding  in  clusters,  are  objec- 
tionable and  cause  a  large  loss  in  preparation  for  cooking. 

IV.     TYPE  AND  PURITY— 25  POINTS. 


No.  of 
Points 

Things  to  Consider 

Value  of 
Points 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 

Trueness  to  type 

15 

2 

Freedom  from  mixture 

10 



Total  score 

25 

EXPLANATION  OF  POINTS. 

IV.     Type  and  Purity: 

1.  Trueness  to  Type. — Indicated  by  the  uniformity  in  size,   shape,   color   and 
characteristics   of   the   tubers. 

2.  Freedom    from     Mixture. — A     mixture     of    varieties     is     objectionable  be- 
cause of  difference  in  manner  of  growth,  time  of  ripening  and  in  keeping  and  storing 
qualities. 

SUMMARY  OF  POTATO  SCORE. 


Points  Considered 

Value  of 
Points 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

I.                                        Yield 

25 

II.                                   Salability 

25     . 

III.                                Culinary  value 

25 

IV.                               Type  and  purity 

25 



Final  score 

100 

TOMATO  CONTEST 

This  has  been  one  of  the  most  popular  and  successful  pro- 
jects in  club  work  and,  where  conditions  are  favorable  for 
tomato  raising,  it  is  strongly  recommended.  A  century  ago 
the  tomato  was  rarely  grown  and  then  only  as  an  ornamental 
plant.  It  was  thought  to  be  poisonous  until  its  food  value 
was  discovered  accidentally.  The  tomato  is  now  one  of  the 
most  valuable  vegetable  crops  in  the  United  States,  and  is 
extensively  grown  in  almost  every  other  country.  No  other 
fruit  or  vegetable  is  so  much  used  for  canning  purposes. 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK  129 

The  young  tomato  plant  is  very  tender  and  must  not  be 
transplanted  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  past.  In  the  north- 
ern states  this  time  will  be  about  the  middle  of  May. 
The  plants  must,  therefore,  be  started  in  window  boxes  or 
hotbeds,  and  transplanted  to  the  garden.  Start  them  about 
six  weeks  before  they  are  to  be  set  out  in  the  open.  There  are 
a  great  many  varieties  of  tomatoes,  but  the  large,  late  kinds 
are  best  for  canning.  The  plants  should  be  set  in  rows  at 
least  four  feet  apart  to  allow  plenty  of  room  for  horse  culti- 
vation and  for  the  development  of  the  plant.  The  distance 
apart  in  the  row  will  depend  upon  the  variety,  as  space 
enough  for  growth  is  necessary.  Tomatoes  thrive  best  in 
a  rich,  sandy  soil  and  require  plenty  of  warm  weather 
during  a  long  growing  season.  They  must  be  kept  free 
from  weeds  and  insects  and  should  not  only  be  cultivated 
often,  but  kept  hoed  close  to  the  plant.  As  soon  as  the  young 
fruit  is  formed,  the  plant  should  be  well  supported  by  staking 
and  tying  or  part  of  the  crop  will  be  spoiled  on  the  damp 
ground.  When  time  to  ripen,  cut  away  the  surplus  branches 
to  let  the  sun  in  and  allow  the  nourishment  that  would 
feed  the  branches  to  go  to  the  green  tomatoes.  Early 
varieties  may  often  be  marketed  fresh  in  small  baskets  at 
handsome  profits,  but  the  individual  or  the  club  should 
own  a  home  canning  outfit  and  can  the  main  crop.  Write  to 
the  national  and  state  departments  of  agriculture  for  bulle- 
tins and  information  pertaining  to  the  culture  and  canning 
of  the  tomato.  Farmer's  Bulletin  No.  521  is  good  for  the 
latter. 

CANNING  AS  CLUB  WORK 

Canning  has  become  very  popular  among  both  boys  and 
girls  during  the  last  few  years,  both  as  home  projects  and  as 
club  work.  As  home  work,  it  is  usually  done  by  the  girls,  but 
as  club  work,  it  is  important  for  both  girls  and  boys.  Fruits, 


130  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

vegetables  and  soups  are  canned  and  glass  sealers  and  tin 
cans  are  used  for  containers.  There  is  always  a  good  de- 
mand for  foods  preserved  in  this  way.  The  canning  pro- 
jects supplement  the  fruit  and  vegetable  gardening  work  and 
make  all  profitable. 

There  are  five  general  ways  of  canning  food  stuffs:  the 
intermittent,  or  fractional-sterilization,  method;  cold-water 
method;  vacuum-seal  method;  hot-pack,  or  open-kettle, 
method;  and  the  cold-pack  method. 

The  intermittent  method  is  very  effective,  but  requires 
three  days  to  complete  the  process  and  is  expensive  in  time 
and  fuel.  The  cold-water  method  is  used  with  sour  food 
stuffs,  such  as  gooseberries  and  rhubarb.  The  product  is 
washed  and  sealed  in  cold  water.  In  the  vacuum-seal 
method  a  special  can  is  required.  It  is  successful,  but  has 
not  yet  come  into  general  use. 

The  hot-pack,  or  open-kettle,  .method  is  still  the  common 
way  of  canning  in  most  homes.  The  products  are  com- 
pletely cooked  before  packing  in  the  cans  and  sealing. 
The  method  is  a  success  for  fruits,  but  is  a  failure  for  vege- 
tables, and  it  is  always  laborious. 

The  cold-pack  method  is  gradually  displacing  the  hot- 
pack.  It  is  the  method  generally  recommended  for  the 
club  work  and  home  canning  projects.  By  it,  vegetables, 
as  well  as  fruits,  may  be  preserved. 

The  equipment  for  canning  by  the  cold-pack  method 
need  not  be  elaborate.  While  there  are  several  kinds  of 
commercial  outfits  on  the  market,  their  chief  advantage 
over  the  homemade  ones  is  their  convenience.  Homemade 
outfits  may  be  constructed  from  washtubs,  wash  boilers, 
kettles,  milk  cans,  pails,  etc.  Select  an  outfit  that  is  deep 
enough  for  water  to  come  one  inch  above  the  top  of  the  tallest 
jar.  This  type  of  cooker  is  called  a  hot  water  bath  outfit. 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 


131 


It  should  be  provided  with  handles,  a  false  bottom  and  a  tight 
cover.  The  false  bottom  is  used  to  keep  the  containers  off 
the  bottom  and  thus  allow  water  to  come  in  contact  with  the 
cans  or  jars.  A  tinner  can  make  a  special  false  bottom,  or 
one  can  be  made  at  home  by  fastening  thin  boards  to  some 
cleats  and  submerging  in  the  water.  Wire  handles  may  be 
fastened  to  the  false  bottom  to  lift  the  entire  lot  of  containers 
out  when  cooked,  or  the  cans  may  be  removed  singly  with 
tongs  or  other  device. 


Figure  110.     Growing  vegetables  for  the  canning  contest. 

The  various  steps  in  cold-pack  canning  are,  in  order,  as 
as  follows:  Select  sound  products;  grade  for  ripeness,  size 
and  quality;  wash  clean;  trim,  if  necessary;  scald  or  iblanch 
to  loosen  the  skin,  reduce  bulk  and  drive  out  objectionable 
acids;  plunge  into  cold  water  immediately,  or  "cold  dp,"  to 
separate  the  skin  from  the  pulp,  firm  the  texture,  set  the 
color  and  render  packing  easy;  pack  carefully  and  closely  in 
glass  jars  or  tin  cans;  add  hot  water  for  vegetables  and  hot 
water  or  hot  syrup  for  fruits;  place  rubber  and  cover  on  jar 


132  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

and  partially  seal,  or  cap  and  tip  tin  cans  at  once;  cook,  or 
"process,"  immediately  and  according  to  time-table,  but  do 
not  begin  to  count  time  until  the  water  in  the  cooker  is 
boiling.  Scalding  is  immersing  for  one  or  two  minutes  in 
boiling  water  or  live  steam.  It  is  used  mostly  for  tree 
fruits  and  tomatoes.  Blanching  is  parboiling.  The  prod- 
uct is  left  in  the  boiling  water  for  a  longer  period  than  is 
necessary  for  scalding.  The  time  varies  from  one  to  fifteen 
minutes,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  product. 

The  time  necessary  to  cook  the  products  will  depend 
upon  the  kind  of  food  stuff  to  be  canned  and  the  altitude. 
Water  boils  at  21 2°F.  at  sea  level,  but  the  boiling  point  de- 
creases as  the  altitude  increases.  It  takes  longer,  therefore, 
to  cook  the  products  at  high  altitudes.  In  general,  the  time 
should  be  increased  at  the  rate  of  about  25  per  cent  for  each 
increase  of  4,000  feet  in  altitude.  In  general,  the  time  re- 
quired in  the  hot  water  bath  outfit  for  soft  fruits,  such  as 
berries,  peaches,  etc.,  at  an  altitude  of  500  feet,  is  about  16 
minutes;  for  sour  berry  fruits,  such  as  currants,  gooseberries, 
etc.,  about  16  minutes;  for  hard  fruits,  such  as  apples,  pears, 
etc.,  20  minutes;  for  greens,  such  as  spinach,  Swiss  chard, 
etc.,  blanch  15  or  20  minutes  and  sterilize  90  minutes;  for 
roots  and  tubers,  such  as  parsnips,  sweet  potatoes,  etc.,  90 
minutes;  for  tomatoes,  22  minutes;  for  sweet  corn,  180 
minutes;  for  string  beans  and  peas,  120  minutes;  and  for 
pumpkin  and  squash,  60  minutes.  While  overcooking  makes 
the  product  look  mushy,  it  is  always  better  to  overcook  than 
to  undercook,  as  in  the  latter  case  the  food  is  likely 
to  spoil. 

As  soon  as  removed  from  the  cooker,  the  glass  containers 
should  be  tightly  sealed,  and  placed  bottom  side  up  until 
cold.  They  should  then  be  stored  in  a  darkened  place,  as 
strong  light  fades  the  color. 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 


133 


The  person  or  club  doing  the  canning  should  send  to  the 
Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.,  for  the  N  R 
series,  " Co-operative  Extension  Work  in  Agriculture  and 
Home  Economics,"  for  complete  recipes,  tables,  etc.,  neces- 
sary for  a  thorough  understanding  of  the  subject.  It  is 
suggested  that,  where  club  work  is  done  at  school  or  at  home, 
a  commercial  canning  outfit  should  be  purchased.  It  could 
belong  to  the  club  or  to  the  school.  Many  clubs  have  worked 
on  the  co-operative  plan  and  sold  enough  canned  products 
from  the  home  gardens  to  bring  large  returns  for  the  time 
and  money  invested.  Special  labels  for  club  work  can  be 
obtained  and  should  be  used  for  the  cans  that  are  to  be  sold. 
The  club  brand  is  popular  in  many  markets. 

POULTRY  CONTEST 

A  poultry  contest  may  be  made  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing of  the  club  projects.  Poultry  raising  is  light  work  and 
is  often  regarded  as  being  especially  suitable  and  profitable 
for  boys.  Select  the  breed  you  prefer  and  start  with  the 
best  pure  bred  birds  you  can  get.  If  you  cannot  afford  to 
buy  hens,  buy  a  setting  of  eggs.  In  any  event,  start  slowly 


Figure  111.     For  pleasure  and  profit,  pure  bred  poultry  are  preferable 


134  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

until  you  get  used  to  the  business,  for  poultry  raising  will 
require  more  careful  attention  and  management  than  almost 
any  of  the  other  club  projects.  If  you  like  it  and  are  suc- 
cessful, then  launch  out  as  extensively  as  you  desire.  You 
should  purchase  a  good  poultry  book  and  study  it  carefully 
to  supplement  the  school  work  and  learn  the  science  as  well 
as  the  art.  If  by  proper  housing  and  feeding  you  can  make 
a  hen  produce  fifty  eggs  during  the  winter  when  the  average 
hen  does  not  lay,  the  value  of  the  extra  eggs  at  that  time 
will  represent  your  skill  in  managing  the  flock.  Or,  if  the 
yearly  production  of  the  flock  can  be  increased  from  10  to 
25  per  cent  by  efficient  management,  which  would  not  be  a 
difficult  matter  with  the  average  flock,  it  would  mean  the 
difference  between  a  profit  and  a  loss. 

Poultry  raising  is  one  of  the  important  industries  of  the 
country,  over  twenty  million  eggs  being  produced  annually. 
If  you  do  not  have  a  separate  house  for  the  flock,  provide 
the  best  place  that  you  can.  Do  not  overcrowd.  Fifty 
fowls  are  sufficient  for  one  room  of  300  square  feet,  floor 
space.  Keep  the  floor,  roosts  and  nests  clean,  and  the 
poultry  will  be  free  from  vermin.  See  that  there  is  plenty 
of  fresh  air  and  they  will  not  likely  be  sick.  Feeding  is  the 
most  difficult  part  of  the  whole  business  for  the  beginner. 
Study  this  phase  until  you  understand  what  is  meant  by  a 
balanced  ration  and  work  out  one  or  more  for  your  poultry. 
Do  not  overlook  the  grit  and  shells,  green  feeds  and  meat 
scraps  during  the  winter  months.  Gather  the  eggs  daily, 
keep  them  clean  and  grade  them  before  marketing.  As  this 
topic  is  discussed  in  detail  by  the  author  in  " Industrial 
Booklets/'  a  companion  volume,  it  is  not  necessary  to  give 
more  information  here. 

The  following  ration  from  Crom well's  "Agriculture  and 
Life"  was  worked  out  by  a  young  lady  interested  in  poultry. 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 


135 


It  was  the  cheapest  balanced  ration  she  could  find  for  100 
Plymouth  Rock  hens  and  is  an  excellent  one: 

Balanced  Ration  for  Laying  Hens 


Feed 

Digestible 
Dry  Matter 

Protein 

Carbohydrates 

Cost 

Wheat,  8  pounds  
Corn,  15  pounds  
Oats,  4  pounds  
Milk,  30  pounds  
Meat  scraps,  1  ^  pounds    

7.16 
12.75 
3.58 

2.82 
1.34 

.70 
1.01 
.43 

.87 
.90 

5.66 
10.83 
2.35 
1.77 
.47 

$   .15 
.15 
.06 
.06 
.03 

Standard  for  balanced  ration  

27.65 
27 

3.91 
4 

23.08 
24 

$  .45 

The  digestible  dry  matter  and  protein  in  this  ration  are 
very  close  to  the  standard  for  a  balanced  ration,  while  the 
carbohydrates  are  a  little  under.  Try  this  on  your  hens 
and  see  if  you  can  feed  them  for  less  than  a  half  cent  each  a 
day.  Work  out  other  rations  of  your  own  and  present  them 
for  class  study.  When  a  hen  is  hatched  from  the  shell,  she 
has  within  her  body  the  embryos  of  all  the  eggs  she  can  ever 
lay.  It  is  the  business  of  the  scientific  poultry  raiser  to  get 
the  greatest  number  of  these  embryo  eggs  to  develop  and  be 
laid  during  the  first  year  of  laying,  as  hens  are  seldom  pro- 
fitable after  the  first  year  and  should  never  be  kept  longer 
than  two  years.  Heredity  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  early 
laying  and  that  is  why  it  pays  to  raise  pure  bred  stock. 
Proper  feeding  and  housing,  however,  probably  have  more 
to  do  with  rapid  egg  production  than  heredity. 

PIG  CONTEST 

Among  the  most  interesting  projects  of  the  club  work  is 
the  pig  contest.  The  county  is  frequently  the  unit  of  terri- 
tory for  this  project  and  both  boys  and  girls  enter  the  con- 
test. The  object  is  to  encourage  the  raising  of  pure  bred 
stock  and  to  teach  the  principles  of  stock  raising.  For 


136  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

information  on  conducting  a  pig  contest  consult  the  state 
experiment  station  or  a  county  agent. 

In  one  county  in  which  the  work  was  conducted  by  the 
county  agent,  or  agricultural  director,  the  local  bankers 
supplied  the  capital  for  the  contest.  The  Duroc-Jersey 
breed  was  decided  upon  and  pure  bred  stock  distributed  to 
the  boys  and  girls  in  the  contest.  The  hogs  were  sold  to 
the  contestants  at  cost,  most  of  the  latter  giving  their  notes 
without  interest  until  the  close  of  the  contest  in  the  fall. 
Definite  rules  were  followed  for  feeding,  care,  weighing,  etc., 
and  the  Fourth  of  July  was  announced  as  the  date  for  all 
contestants  to  take  the  brood  sows  and  litters  to  the  county 
seat  for  preliminary  judging.  A  great  deal  of  interest  was 
shown  by  the  people  of  the  community  at  this  time.  The 
winners  at  the  preliminary  contest  entered  the  final  contest 
in  the  fall.  The  contest  was  so  successful  that  the  same 
set  of  business  men  offered  to  finance  a  similar  contest  for 
pure  bred  dairy  cattle. 

SAVINGS  BANKS 

One  of  the  best  plans  to  encourage  thrift  and  to  teach  the 
value  of  saving  is  the  one  now  adopted  by  many  schools  of 
affiliating  the  school  with  one  or  more  banks  and  allowing 
students  to  make  weekly  deposits.  The  teacher  acts  as  local 
cashier  and  deposits  the  money  at  the  banks  when  convenient. 
One  day  a  week  is  known  as  banking  day  at  school  and 
pupils  may  deposit  any  amount  from  one  cent  up.  They 
are  given  stamps  as  certificates.  These  stamps  are  fur- 
nished free  by  the  banks.  One  school  of  thirty  students 
recently  deposited  more  than  $100  in  four  months,  most  of 
which  would  have  been  spent  needlessly,  had  they  not 
become  interested  in  the  savings  bank  movement.  The 
garden  and  club  work  make  it  possible  for  all  young  persons 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK  137 

to  earn  money  for  themselves  and  there  is  all  the  more  need 
of  learning  to  save.  Many  look  upon  "pin"  money  as  some- 
thing with  which  to  buy  chewing  gum  and  candy,  if  not 
something  more  injurious.  Increasing  the  earning  capacity 
is  very  important,  but  unless  one  learns  to  spend  less  than  is 
earned,  there  can  be  no  saving.  The  following  ten  thrift 
maxims  have  been  selected  from  an  Oregon  pamphlet  on 
"Industrial  Club  Work."  They  are  proverbs  well  worth 
considering. 

"Fortune  helps  them  that  help  themselves." 

"Punctuality  is  the  soul  of  business." 

"Who  will  not  keep  a  penny  shall  never  have  many." 

"Plow  deep  while  sluggards  sleep,  and  you  shall  have  corn 
to  sell  and  keep." 

"Industry  is  fortune's  right  hand  and  frugality  her  left." 

"He  is  poor  whose  expenses  exceed  his  income." 

"Early  to  bed,  early  to  rise,  makes  a  man  healthy, 
wealthy  and  wise." 

"He  that  will  not  stoop  for  a  pin  will  never  be  worth  a 
pound." 

"He  that  has  but  four,  and  spends  five,  has  no  need  of  a 
purse." 

"He  that  saves  when  he  is  young  may  spend  when  he  is 
old." 

KEEPING  ACCOUNTS 

As  a  supplement  to  the  contest  work  and  savings  bank 
deposits,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  accounts.  Not  only  is  a 
knowledge  of  accounts  advisable,  but  students  should  learn 
that  no  business  can  be  done  successfully  without  accounts. 
It  is  the  unsystematic  and  unbusinesslike  way  in  which  most 
farming  has  been  done  that  led  to  the  belief  that  those  who 
cannot  do  anything  else  can  farm.  Modern  farming  is  a 


138  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 

highly  complicated  business  and  those  who  are  capable  of 
managing  it  as  such  will  be  most  successful. 

Accounts  should  not  be  difficult  to  any  boy  who  can  do 
ordinary  sixth  grade  arithmetic.  There  are  a  few  simple 
things  that  must  be  remembered  and  always  followed.  An 
account  is  the  name  under  which  certain  transactions  are 
arranged  according  to  whether  they  have  been  "received" 
or  "parted  with/'  When  an  account  receives  something,  the 
transaction  is  put  on  the  left  side,  or  "debited;"  when  it 
parts  with  something,  the  transaction  is  put  on  the  right  side 
of  the  account,  or  "credited."  For  example,  in  the  acre- 
yield  corn  contest  two  accounts  must  be  kept,  one  for  "Corn" 
and  one  for  "Cash."  If  you  pay  out  cash  for  seed  or  labor 
or  any  other  expense  of  raising  the  corn,  you  would  credit 
"Cash,"  as  that  account  parted  with  something.  You 
would  also  debit  "Corn,"  as  that  account  received  the  same 
amount.  In  like  manner  you  would  debit  "Corn"  for  the 
value  of  all  the  labor  of  preparing  the  ground,  seeding,  cul- 
tivating and  harvesting,  and  you  would  credit  the  same 
account  for  all  corn  fed  or  sold  from  your  acre.  If  you  re- 
ceived cash  for  part  or  all  of  it,  that  amount  would  be  debited 
to  the  "Cash"  account.  Have  a  record  sheet  to  keep  the 
number  of  hours  of  horse  labor  as  well  as  of  your  own,  as  all 
labor  must  be  paid  for  in  determining  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion. From  this  the  general  principles  of  accounts,  or  book- 
keeping, can  be  seen. 

Usually,  accounts  are  kept  by  the  "double  entry"  method; 
that  is,  the  same  amount  that  is  debited  to  one  account  is 
credited  to  another  account  as  illustrated  above.  Much  of 
what  used  to  be  kept  in-  the  Day  Book  and  Journal  is  now 
posted  directly  to  the  Ledger  account,  and  card  systems 
have  taken  place  of  the  books  to  a  large  extent.  Special 
record  sheets  for  labor,  milk  and  egg  records,  etc.,  can  be 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK  139 

secured  free  from  the  nearest  state  experiment  station,  and 
all  you  will  need  is  a  ledger  or  some  ledger  ruled  sheets  or 
cards  which  you  can  rule  yourself.  The  school  could  have 
these  cards  made  six  by  eight  inches  and  ruled  at  a  very 
small  cost,  if  done  by  the  thousand.  The  accounts  here  sug- 
gested are  for  the  farm,  but  it  should  be  remembered  that 
the  principles  are  the  same  for  any  business  and,  hence,  they 
can  be  applied  to  the  store  or  business  office  as  well. 

A  modern  department  store  is  a  good  example  of  the 
necessity  of  keeping  accounts  for  each  department  instead 
of  for  only  the  business  as  a  whole.  The  dry  goods  depart- 
ment may  make  money  and  the  grocery  department  lose, 
or  the  drug  department  may  show  a  profit  while  the  meat 
department  shows  a  loss  at  the  end  of  the  year.  The  general 
manager  will  then  know  that  the  grocery  and  meat  depart- 
ments are  a  detriment  to  the  business  and  the  managers  of 
these  departments  will  be  called  in  consultation.  Better 
methods  must  be  adopted  and  these  departments  made  to 
show  a  profit  or  they  will  be  discontinued. 

A  farmer  may  keep  enough  records  to  know  that  his 
farm  has  been  managed  profitably  rather  than  at  a  loss ;  but, 
unless  he  keeps  accounts  for  each  department  of  his  business, 
he  does  not  know  which  ones  have  been  most  profitable. 
The  hogs  may  produce  a  profit  only  to  be  "eaten  up"  by 
the  "star  boarders"  in  the  dairy  herd,  and  the  corn  and  hay 
may  barely  offset  the  loss  on  the  wheat  or  other  grain  fields. 
Accounts  for  each  of  his  "departments"  will  enable  the 
farmer  to  send  his  poor  cows  to  the  butcher,  to  increase  the 
live  stock  and  crops  that  pay  best  and  to  improve  the  weak 
parts  of  his  business  or  discontinue  them  altogether.  It  is 
the  ability  to  keep  such  accounts  and  the  foresight  to  see 
that  it  is  worth  while  to  do  it  that  makes  some  farmers 
business  men  while  others  are  not. 


140  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOY8 

Every  boy  should  supplement  his  school  work  in  arith- 
metic and  accounts  by  keeping  the  records  of  one  or  more 
departments  of  the  farm  or  other  business.  These  accounts 
should  be  checked  up  by  the  teacher  and  credit  given  when 
completed.  Study  the  suggestive  farm  accounts  here  given 
and  start  some  of  your  own  as  soon  as  you  have  done  enough 
of  the  work  in  school  to  do  it  correctly.  Remember  that 
accuracy  is  the  first  requisite  to  success  in  account  keeping, 
and  neatness  and  rapidity  come  next. 

The  inventory  is  the  first  step  in  farm  accounts.  What 
is  known  as  a  continued  inventory  is  commonly  kept  as  it 
contains  space  for  the  list  of  things  on  hand  for  more  than 
one  year.  Some  time  between  January  1  and  April  1  is 
the  best  time  to  take  "stock"  on  the  farm,  as  there  is  less 
produce  to  be  listed  then  than  at  any  other  time  of  the  year. 
It  is  not  a  busy  season  either  and  is,  therefore,  a  good  time 
to  make  out  the  annual  statement.  This  statement  is  made 
from  the  accounts  and  inventory  and  shows  the  gain  or  loss 
on  the  year's  business  as  well  as  the  net  present  worth. 
The  inventory  is  merely  a  list  of  the  farm  implements,  live 
stock,  produce  on  hand  and  any  other  items  of  value  on  the 
place.  Sometimes  a  statement  is  combined  with  the  in- 
ventory as  shown  in  the  suggestive  inventory.  The  items 
shown  in  the  inventory  are  "Resources."  Any  notes  to  be 
paid  or  other  obligations  to  be  met  are  "Liabilities."  Sub- 
tracting the  liabilities  from  the  resources  will  give  the 
"Present  Worth."  The  present  worth  is  usually  shown  in 
the  proprietor's  account;  but,  if  no  accounts  are  kept,  an 
inventory  may  be  made  to  show  this  in  a  general  way,  and 
a  farmer  who  can  be  pursuaded  to  keep  an  inventory  will 
usually  start  the  accounts  later. 

In  addition  to  the  inventory  the  following  accounts  are 
suggested  for  the  farm:  Cash,  Dairy  or  Live  Stock,  if  the 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 


141 


dairy  is  not  of  sufficient  importance  to  have  a  separate 
account,  Hogs,  Corn,  Small  Grains  and  what  personal  ac- 
counts are  necessary.  We  shall  suppose  that  a  personal 
account  is  kept  with  the  Hinckley  Implement  Company. 
As  already  intimated,  the  feed  and  labor  records  should  be 
kept  on  special  cards  for  that  purpose.  The  improvements, 
depreciation  and  machinery  and  implements  accounts  can 
all  be  shown  in  the  inventory. 

Suggestive  Inventories  and  Accounts 

CONTINUED  INVENTORIES 


Items 

Remarks 

Apr.  1,  1916 

Apr.  1,  1917 

Apr.  1,  1918 

Farm  and  Buildings.. 

160  Acres  

$12,000.00 

$12,320.00 

Corn  (Seed) 

Market  value 

30  00 

40  00 

Corn  (Feed)  
Oats  (Feed) 

Market  value  
Market  value 

120.00 
110  00 

135.00 
120.00 

Wheat  (Seed)  

Market  value  

30.00 

36.00 

Wheat  (Sale)  
Hay  (Feed) 

Market  value  
Market  value 

125.00 
215  00 

135.00 
250  00 

Vegetables  

Market  value  

25.00 

27.00 

Total  Produce  

655.00 

743.00 

Horses 

Market  value 

650  00 

530  00 

Cows  and  Calves  .... 
Steers  

Market  value  
Market  value  

1,250.00 
235.00 

1,375.00 
225.00 

Hogs 

250  00 

28000 

* 

Sheep  

Ewes  

125.00 

140.00 

Total  Stock    .  . 

2  510.00 

2,550.00 

Poultry 

65  00 

75  00 

Mach.  and  Implemt's 
General  Supplies.  .  .  . 
Cash  

Less  10%  depreciat'n 
Subject  to  check.  .  .  . 

625.00 
25.00 
125.00 

562.50 
27.50 
187.17 

Miscellaneous  

840.00 

852.17 

Total  Resources.  .  .  . 

16,005.00 

16,465.17 

72  00 

36  00 

Personal  Accounts 

Unpaid 

125  15 

74  18 

Bills  Payable  

Notes  out  

2,000.00 

1,500.00 

Total  Liabilities 

2  197  15 

1,610.18 

Net  Present  Worth  .  .  . 

$13,807.85 

$14,854.99 

142 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS 


CASH 


Date 

4/6 
4/24 
5/11 
5/28 
6/10 
7/20 

7/31 

Brought  Forward 

30  bu.  wheat  @  $1.10. 
2  hogs  @  $20 

$125.00 

33.00 
40.00 
19500 
20.00 
75.00 
77.25 

Date 

4/8 
4/21 
5/12 

6/22 
7/1 
7/22 
7/31 

Brought  Forward 

1  keg  nails  
100  gal.  gasoline  
100  ft.  lumber  
Fence  supplies  
House  allow.  (3  mo.)  .  . 
Machinery  repairs  .... 
Balance  on  hand.  .  .  . 

$     5.25 
ll.CO 
6.50 
68.75 
90.00 
13.65 
370.10 

3  steers  @  $65  
2  calves  @  $10  
1  calf  (Pure  bred)  .... 
75  bu.  wheat  @  $1.03 

Bal.  on  hand  

£565.25 

$565.25 

$370.10 

HINCKLEY  IMPLEMENT  CO. 


Date 

Brought  Forward 

Date 

Brought  Forward 

$   35.40 

4/1 
6/25 
11/18 

By  check  No   320  .  . 
By  check  No.  374  .... 
By  check  No.  463  .... 

$  75.00 
50.00 
127.40 

4/1 
6/20 
9/15 

1  manure  spreader.  .  .  . 
1  corn  cultivator  
1  gang  plow  

$120.00 
32.00 
65.00 

$252.40 

$252.40 

CORN 


Date 

Brought  Forward 

Date 

Brought  Forward 

4/1 

Val.  30  acres  @  $75... 

$  2250.00 

10/1 

Value  land  (same)  .... 

$2,250.00 

Int.  on  invest.  @  6%  . 

135.00 

1500  bu.  corn  @  $.60.. 

900.00 

Seed,  4  bu.  @  $2.50..  . 

10.00 

Value  corn  fodder.  .  .  . 

60.00 

Value  manure  

90.00 

ro/i 

Labor  and  twine  

315.00 

* 

Depre.  and  int.  mach  . 

15.00 

Incidentals  

4.75 

Net  Gain  

390.25 

$3.210.10 

$3,210.00 

SMALL  GRAIN 


Date 

Brought  Forward 

Date 

Brought  Forward 

4/1 

Val.  60  acres  @  $75.  .  . 

$4,500.00 

9/1 

Value  land  (same)  ... 

$4,500.00 

Int.  on  invest.  @  6%  . 

270.00 

1200  bu.  oats  @  $.40.  . 

480.00 

Seed  grain  

75.00 

540  bu.  wheat  @  $.90. 

486.00 

Val.  manure  

180.00 

Value  of  straw  

60.00 

9/1 

Labor  and  twine  

188.00 

Threshing  

75.00 

Depre.  and  int.  mach.. 

20.00 

Incidentals  

5.25 

Marketing  

15.00 

Net  Gain 

197.75 

$5,526.00 

$5,526.00 

CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK 


143 


DAIRY 


Date 

Brought  Forward 

Date 

Brought  Forward 

4/1 

20  cows  @  $60  

$1,200.00 

4/1 

18  cows  @  $56  

$1,008.00 

Int.  on  invest.  @  6%  . 

72.00 

Sold  2  cows  @  $48..  .  . 

96.00 

Grain  fed  

480.00 

15  calves  @  $5  

75.00 

Roughage  fed  
Pasturage  

300.00 
100.00 

Skimmed  milk  for  hogs 
5400  Ibs.  butter  fat  @ 

180.00 

Labor  

240.00 

$  .28  

1,512.00 

Cost  of  shelter  

48.00 

Miscellaneous  

9.25 

Net  Cain  

421.75 

$2,871.00 

$2,871.00 

HOGS 


Date 

Brought  Forward 

Date 

Brought  Forward 

4/1 

10  sows  @  $25  

$    250.00 

4/1 

10  sows  at  $22.50.  .  . 

$    225.00 

Int.  on  invest.  @  6% 

15.00 

80hogs,20,0001bs.@7c 

1,400.00 

Grain  fed  

540.00 

Other  feed  

320.00 

Labor  

80.00 

Cost  of  shelter  

24.00 

Net  Gain  

396.00 

$1,625.00 

$1,625.00 

INDUSTRIAL  EXHIBIT 

Finally,  as  the  grand  climax  of  your  industrial  work, 
plan  to  have  at  least  one  industrial  exhibit  each  year  at  the 
school  and  invite  all  the  people  of  the  community.  Get 
the  farmers'  club,  the  creamery  directors  and  other  organiza- 
tions, as  well  as  the  school  board,  interested  enough  to  offer 
small  prizes  to  encourage  the  work.  If  no  prizes  are  offered, 
have  the  exhibit  anyway.  The  best  plan  is  to  have  two — 
one  in  the  spring  just  before  school  is  out,  and  the  other  in 
the  fall  just  before  cold  weather.  In  the  spring,  the  best 
work  of  the  year  at  school  may  be  shown,  not  only  the  indus- 
trial work,  but  arithmetic,  writing,  language,  etc.  A  spell- 
ing contest  will  add  interest.  In  the  fall,  a  "harvest  home 
festival"  may  be  given  at  which  will  be  exhibited  the  work 
done  by  the  students  during  the  summer.  This  will  include 
garden  products,  corn,  tomatoes,  canning  and  other  contest 
work,  as  well  as  any  other  special  "home  credit"  projects. 


144  INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOlti 

Premium  List  for  Contest  in  Associated  Schools 

PENMANSHIP 

1.  Best  individual  specimen  of  writing,  including  movement 

exercises,  small  letters,  capitals,  figures   and   words  .  .  .    .75  .50  .25 

2.  Best  general  display  from  all  grades 75  .50  .25 

GEOGRAPHY 

1.  Best  relief  map  of  Minnesota 75  .50  .25 

2.  Best  relief  map  of  any  continent 75  .50  .25 

3.  Best  drawn  map  of  any  kind, 75  .50  .25 

LANGUAGE 

1.  Best  booklet  on  any  one  of  the  following  topics:     Corn, 

Noxious  Weeds,   Vegetable  Garden,  Strawberries,   Ap- 
ples, Poultry  for  Pleasure  and  Profit,   Farm  Animals, 

Bee  Culture,  Home  Sanitation,  The  Typhoid  Fly 75  .50  .25 

2.  Best  general  display  from  all  grades 75  .50  .25 

ARITHMETIC 

1.     Best  general  display  from  all  grades 75  .50  .25 

ELEMENTARY  INDUSTRIAL  WORK 

1.  Best  woven  mat,  yarn  or  cloth 75  .50  .25 

2.  Best  hammock 75  .50  .25 

3.  Best  napkin  ring 75  .50  .25 

4.  Best  raffia  or  reed  mat 75  .50  .25 

5.  Best  raffia  or  reed  basket 75  .50  .25 

6.  Best  yarn  cap  or  bonnet 75  .50  .25 

7.  Best  clay  exhibit 75  .50  .25 

8.  Best  general  exhibit  of  industrial  work 75  .50  .25 

SEWING 

1.  Best  needlebook 50  .35  .25 

2.  Best  outing  flannel  holder 50  .35  .25 

3.  Best  gingham  holder 50  .35  .25 

4.  Best  sleevelets 50  .35  .25 

5.  Best  cap 50  .35  .25 

6.  Best  hemstitched  towel 75  .50  .25 

7.  Best  stockinet  darning 75  .50  .25 

8.  Best  buttonholes 75  .50  .25 

9.  Best  gingham  bag 75  .50  .25 

10.  Best  sewing  apron 75  .50  .25 

11.  Best  hemmed  patch 75  .50  .25 

12.  Best  three-cornered  darn 75  .50  .25 

13.  Best  outing  flannel  nightgown 75  .50  .25 

14.  Best  overhand  patch 75  .50  .25 

15.  Best  general  exhibit  of  sewing 

Each  article  is  to  be  made  as  directed  in  course  of  study 

MANUAL  TRAINING 

1.  Best  match  scratcher 50  .35  .25 

2.  Best  plant  marker 50  .35  .25 

3.  Best  salt  box .    75  .50  .25 

4.  Best  match  box 75  .50  .25 

5.  Best  other  article 75  .50  -.25 

6.  Best   composition    on    "Manual    Training    in    the    Rural 

School" 75  .50  .25 

7.  Best  general  exhibit  in  manual  training 1.00 


CONTESTS  AND  CLUB  WORK  145 


AGRICULTURE 

1.  Corn  judging  contest 75     .50     .25 

2.  Corn  germinator  with  germinating  corn  ready  to  count. 

Must  include  report  on  test  and  opinion  of  seed  by  ex- 
hibitor   75     .50     .25 

3.  Long  and  short  splice  (both  must  be  included) 75     .50     .25 

4.  Best  general  exhibit  of  rope  work  including  knots  and 

splices 75     .50     .25 

5.  Best  noxious  weed  seed  exhibit  to  be  selected  and  de- 

termined by  the  school 75     .50     .25 

6.  Best  general  exhibit  in  agricultural  work 1.00 

The  greatest  need  of  the  nation  in  the  immediate  future 
is  a  generation  of  young  men  who  are  physically  and  morally 
strong,  alive  to  their  opportunities,  industrious,  thrifty,  im- 
pressed with  the  dignity  of  labor  and  trained  with  a  practical 
education  that  will  enable  them  to  "make  good." 


10— 


1  Rural  Education  1 

A.  E.  PICKARD 

1  1 

AN    AID    TO    PRODUCTIVE    TEACHING 

FOR  NORMAL  CLASSES,  READING  CIR- 
CLES, COUNTY  SUPERINTENDENTS  and 
RURAL  TEACHERS 

1  I 

Adopted  in  Several  States  and  Many  Counties 

Industrial  subjects  are  disputing  place  with  academic 

{|      even  in  the  rural  school.     What  shall  be  eliminated?     What      || 

m      shall  be  taught?     How?     With  what  result?  m 

=  = 

Rural  Education  Tells  What  to  Teach 

Aside  from  the  excellent  arrangement  of  the  program  of  H 
H      academic  subjects  and   the  full  treatment   of   methods   for 

s       teaching  the  same,  Rural  Education  presents  practical  plans  || 

M      for  including  the  required  industrial  work,  viz:  agriculture,  |f 

H       manual  training  and  domestic  science.     In  addition  it  fully  = 

^       discusses  the  outside  activities  which  enlarge  the  scope  of  the  p 

M      school  and  the  community  life  and  form  a  vital  part  of  real  p 

rural  education. 

1  I 
=                       Rural  Education  Tells  How  to  Teach 

H  = 

p  The   co-ordination   and   arrangement   of   all   these   con-       == 

flicting  courses  is  a   problem   which  this  book  solves  with  ji 

H       satisfaction  and  success.     Complete  instruction  is  given  for  f| 

H       the  carrying  out  of  the  plans  suggested  and  for  the  teaching  = 

=      of  each  subject  in  detail.     In  the  industrial  subjects  the  actual  || 
M       work  to  be  pursued  is  supplied. 

=  .  ^j 

Rural  Education  Increases  Teaching  Efficiency 

The   definite   outlines   and    methods   which    have   been      H 

H  thoroly  tested  and  found  to  be  most  successful,  together  with 

H  the  enlarged  outlook  and  inspiration  which  come  with  a  view       || 

f|  of  new  and  greater  possibilities,  tend  to  increase  efficiency  in       j§ 

M  the  schoolroom  and  to  direct  and  elevate  all  rural  life. 
=  = 

^  12mo.,  430  pages.     Illustrated.     Price,  $1.00  net 

WEBB  PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 

SAINT  PAUL,   MINN. 


INDUSTRIAL  WORK  I 
FOR  GIRLS         1 

A.  E.  PICKARD 

AND 

MARIE  C.  HENEGREN 

A  COMPANION   VOLUME  TO 
"INDUSTRIAL  WORK  FOR  BOYS" 

THIS  volume  is  in  keeping  with  the  rapid  strides  that  are  | 

being  made  by  industrial  education.    It  is  an  up-to-date  || 

text  for  teaching  industrial  work  rto  girls  in  rural  and  graded  || 

schools.  With  the  exception  of  its  companion  volume,  no  other  p 

book  is  better  designed  for  training  the  hand  as  well  as  the  head.  f| 

CONTENTS- 

Chapter  I— Course  and  Equipment.  Purpose  of  Industrial  Work,  || 
Preliminary  Industrial  Work,  Second  and  Third  Division  Work.  f§ 

Chapter  II— General  Industrial  Work.     School   Exercises  in  Weav- 
ing, Paper  Folding  and   Construction,  Raffia  and   Rattan  Work,        = 
Modeling.  f= 

Chapter  ///— SeuJing  in  the  Rural  School.  Equipment,  Classifica-  ^ 
tion  of  Stitches,  School  Exercises,  Home  Projects. 

Chapter  IV— Principles  of  Home  Science.  Food  Denned,  Food  = 
Principles,  Preservation  of  Food,  Planning  Menus,  Purpose  and  E= 
Principles  of  Cooking,  Bread  Making,  Cake  Making,  Pie  Making,  =f 
Salads,  Beverages,  Experiments. 

Chapter  V—The  Hot  Lunch.     Equipment,  General  Directions,  Sauces 
and  Thickening  for  Cream  Soups,  Suggestive  Dishes,  Recipes. 

Chapter  VI — Industrial  Club  Work.  Tomato  Contest,  Home  Can-  j^ 
ning,  Bread  Baking  Contest. 

Chapter  VII— Home  Credit  Exercises.  The  Flower  Garden,  House  || 
Plants,  Bird  Study,  Bed  Making,  Preparing  a  Meal,  Laying  the  = 
Table,  Serving  Meals,  Clearing  Dining  Table  and  Washing  Dishes,  =p 
Fly  Control,  Planning  the  Home,  Ventilation,  Savings  Banks,  E| 
Home  Accounts,  Industrial  Exhibit. 

The  book  contains  62  illustrations,  many  of  which  are  of  P 
sewing  stitches  and  exercises.  It  contains  all  the  practical  || 
features  of  a  modern  industrial  course  for  girls.  H 

12mo.,  about  150  pages.     Illustrated.     Price,  40  cents  net 

WEBB  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

SAINT  PAUL,   MINN. 


I  INDUSTRIAL  BOOKLETS  1 

A.  E.  PICKARD 

A  BOOK  ON   BOOKLETS— TEACHING  THE  EXPRESSION 

AND  ILLUSTRATION  OF  INDUSTRIAL  SUBJECTS  THRU  = 
^                                               COMPOSITION  AND  ART 

Suitable  for   Grade    Work  in  All  Kinds  of  Schools 

This  book  on  booklets  contains  a  series  of  outlines  on  Agriculture,  *  ^ 

Horticulture,  Animal  Husbandry,  Home  Economics,  and  other  subjects.  || 

One  topic — Poultry — is  thoroly  developed  as  an  example  of  the  way  in  = 

which  the  work  should  be  done.  =| 

The  making  of  the  booklets  is  a  part  of  the  language  work.     The  |§ 

character  of  the  subjects  and  the  interest  taken  in  their  study  vitalize  p= 

the  school  life  by  supplying  a  wealth  of  pleasing  material  for  discussion  ^ 

and  composition.     Different  important  results  are  secured  by  the  use  = 

of  these  outlines.  ^ 

This  investigational   method  of  study  is  the  most  practical  and  = 

pedagogical.  |= 

Topics  of  vital  interest  are  impressed  with  their  bearing  on  modern  =| 

activities  of  general  concern,  and   pupils,   under  proper  direction,   ac-  = 

quire  the  habit  of  orderly  and  effective  expression.     The  general  char-  = 
acter  of  the  school  work  is  elevated  to  a  new  plane. 

12mo.,  144  pages.     Illustrated.     Price  40  cents  net 

1      Webb  Publishing  Go.                               Saint  Paul,  Minn.  i 


1  Rural    School   Lunch  i 

NELLIE  WING  FARNSWORTH 

=  DIRECTOR  OF  HOME  ECONOMICS 

STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL,  VALLEY  CITY,  N.  D. 

A  TIMELY  TREATMENT  OF  THIS  TOPIC 

FULL  OF  PRACTICAL  VALUE  FOR  TEACHERS 

As  a  help  to  convenience,  comfort,  health,  vigor  of  mind,  education        = 
^        and  culture,  this  little  booklet  brings  its  offering  in  the  hope  and  belief       = 
that  it  may  have  a  part  in  securing  better  conditions  for  multitudes  who        = 
need  and  deserve  them. 

TOPICS  TREATED  BY  THE  AUTHOR 

Need  of  the  School  Lunch  Advantages  of  the  Lunch 

=  Necessary  Equipment  Teachers'  Special  Problems 

Methods  of  Maintenance  Food  Study 

=  Suitable  Dishes  Composition  of  Food  Stuffs          = 

Management  Recipes 

Full  details  are  given  for  the  installation  and  conduct  of  the  rural        f= 
school  lunch.     By  means  of  the  tables  and  directions  a  teacher  can        = 
easily  work  out  the  whole  problem  of  not  only  the  one  dish  but  of  a        = 
whole  meal  and  of  child  nutrition  in  general.     The  plans  embody  the 
extensive  experience  of  the  author. 

Price  in  paper  covers,  illustrated,  25  cents. 

1      Webb  Publishing  Co.  Saint  Paul,  Minn.      J 

l!l!lil!lll!llllllill!l!lll!lll!lllllll!l!l!lll!l!l!lll^ 


AN  INITIAL  FINK  OP  25  CENTS 

OVERDUE. 


_100m-12,'43(S796s) 


rb    i oo 1 6 


CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


